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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework


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11 hours ago, newhome said:

@Onoff you need to do a ‘story so far’ post for those of us starting out on page 50 :)

 

Go right back to the start of 1588 photos and 10 videos and you'll get a feel. 

 

Started life as a non square room with the ceiling 6" higher one end than the other and the concrete floor 60mm higher than the rest of the house! So new floor, ceiling and walls:

 

https://flic.kr/s/aHsk23FYzd

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2 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

 

Probably best we don’t. They would add another page or 2 just typing them out xD 

 

I might even have finished one or two? The UFH pipe decoiler and bedside table are the only two that spring to mind! :)

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Just now, Onoff said:

 

I might even have finished one or two? The UFH pipe decoiler and bedside table are the only two that spring to mind! :)

 

I mean who in their right mind would attempt to build an electric wacker from scratch. Also what kind of people have you got around you to even suggest you should do it :ph34r:

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OCD is what prevents us from being rich. 

Just be glad your not doing this for a living, as it's bloody hard to, trust me. 

I know a good few unscrupulous arseholes who are far better off than I am. 

Stick to your guns and take as long as you need. ?

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15 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

If the bits you did are right, then time well spent. :)   

Think its bob on ?

 

I have been taking pics, when we are in it will be time for the plog to be born! ?

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27 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

 

I mean who in their right mind would attempt to build an electric wacker from scratch. Also what kind of people have you got around you to even suggest you should do it :ph34r:

 

It's the voices in my head tell me to do these things:

 

SAM_0801

 

SAM_1002

 

Not forgotten, just on the back burner. Maybe this Summer! :)

 

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47 minutes ago, Barney12 said:

 

@Onoff please disregard this clearly quite ludicrous advice. What Nick meant to say was “take as long as your wife will let you” :D 

 

She wishes I'd take longer sometimes... :ph34r:

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21 hours ago, newhome said:

 

Try 7 :ph34r:

 

 

 

It’s cool. After 7 years you think about changing things anyway so the old list of unfinished jobs just becomes a new list so clean slate :)  

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1 minute ago, newhome said:

 

It’s cool. After 7 years you think about changing things anyway so the old list of unfinished jobs just becomes a new list so clean slate :)  

 

If course if you take 7 years on something you can change it as you go along! :)

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3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

If course if you take 7 years on something you can change it as you go along! :)

 

Most of my things are ‘finished but not quite’. That was the hubby’s specialist way of working. Definitely not a completer finisher ;) and my total lack of DIY skills constrains what I can do to fix them. I bet we have all Belbin role types on here :)

 

When I’m next down your way (family still live there) you’ll have to give me a guided tour of the finished project ;). Well, it might not be the next time I’m down perhaps but maybe sometime in the next 5 years :)

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1 minute ago, Construction Channel said:

 

he's like the rest of us, once you've proved the concept its time for the next project, finishing it is just to impress the people that come around :)

 

 

I would have thought that it was EASIER to finish it than put up with constant nagging but apparently not! 9_9 

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So...

 

I'm a little worried of the stud wall / wall drain / floor moving independently of each other and splitting the tanking membrane.

 

I could run a strip of something above the wall drain element, secured by the x4 M8 bolts and screw to the top of the 2"x2" either side:

 

20180310_224812

 

That would secure the drain to the wall.

 

If I kick up the ends of those two "L" brackets coming off the front of the wall drain element then they would key into the slab:

 

20180310_224831

 

Not sure if I need a bit more rebar in front of the element?

 

Then to stop the wall to slab movement I was thinking drill down through the horizontal 2"x2" and fit some studs with big square washers in the end that would get captured by the slab.

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

So...

 

I'm a little worried of the stud wall / wall drain / floor moving independently of each other and splitting the tanking membrane.

 

 

Then to stop the wall to slab movement I was thinking drill down through the horizontal 2"x2" and fit some studs with big square washers in the end that would get captured by the slab.

4

 

i dont understand, what part are you worried about decoupling from what part? 

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That lot won't budge a mm. ;)

The two brackets laying flat over the membrane, I'd stick a couple of short stainless bolts through them to make pins that the screed will hold and that's that.  

I take it you've not looked at tanking properly yet -_-. The areas you fear may split are all junctions. The tanking kit comes with long strips like band-aids which stretch and flex with the wall / floor 'fault lines' so such a problem cannot occur. The tanking solution is like rubber when it's cured rather than brittle like paint, hence why your using it. 

Just put a good few layers on, allowing to dry in between, and it'll be bombproof. ;)

Have you opened the tanking kit yet? Or haven't you bought it yet?

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7 hours ago, Construction Channel said:

 

i dont understand, what part are you worried about decoupling from what part? 

 

OK, I'll try and NOT resort to a drawing:

 

The timber stud wall are suspended from the ceiling joists. The concrete floor was put in afterwards. I screwed screeding rails to the stud walls so the floor is pretty much bang on level. 

 

The 4 stud walls were made up on the floor then lifted up and screwed (6mmx100s) to the u/side of the ceiling joists.  (The ceiling joists are a bit over spec for the span figuring storage and maybe a bath lift later on :( ).

 

I have then a nom 50mm gap between the underside of the stud wall and top of finished concrete floor. The timber stud depth varies from 45mm to 145mm allowing for hiding the wc frame, services, feature pockets and to just generally square the room off. I've a minimum of 50mm of PIR in the walls. The timber studs are attached to the walls by either concrete screws or resin anchored M10 studs (high loads like the wc, where the concrete screws have failed to bite). Every single stud is held off the wall by minimum 5mm packers up to I think 100mm. Gun foam is squirted behind every stud and they're all PIR'd between.

 

The wall drain is affixed to the original wall, so independent of the stud wall. I can mitigate that as I said above by using the M8 L bracket bolts.

 

Thinking this through my main worry I think is that the wet room corner feels, by treading on it, has a bit of "give". Down to the batch of badly curved PIR sheets from Wickes I think. I'm worried even when the concrete goes in that after it cures, if you tread on that area there'll be a bit of bounce (especially with two people in that area, none of us are getting any lighter ;)).That in effect means the floor moving away from the wall and the tanking splitting potentially.

 

That was good to think through and get down even it meant boring you lot!:) I'll go with what I said above and the bolts @Nickfromwales said just now.

 

And yes Nick, I've got the big tanking kit and it's not yet past it's expiry! Did just drag it out of the loft as cold storage apparently drastically reduces it's shelf life :oWon't know until I open it.

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If your really that concerned then exactly how much 'bounce' is there? Are you mistaking the layers compressing slightly underfoot for bounce?

As I know you pretty well by now, a solution. Get a 4x2 cut it 300mm short of ceiling height. Drill the end to take some 10mm SS threaded bar. Use that with a couple of nuts andxwashers to create an 'acro prop' and sit the threaded bar on a bit of SS flat bar. Use that, pushing from the ceiling down, gently, to take any slack out during screening and grind the threaded bar off after the screed is dry.   

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42 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

If your really that concerned then exactly how much 'bounce' is there? Are you mistaking the layers compressing slightly underfoot for bounce?

As I know you pretty well by now, a solution. Get a 4x2 cut it 300mm short of ceiling height. Drill the end to take some 10mm SS threaded bar. Use that with a couple of nuts andxwashers to create an 'acro prop' and sit the threaded bar on a bit of SS flat bar. Use that, pushing from the ceiling down, gently, to take any slack out during screening and grind the threaded bar off after the screed is dry.   

 

Layers compressing is what it is I reckon, as you say. I reckon if I just keep the ends of the A142 down on the edge it should do it. Studs down thru the 2"x2" into some square washers:

 

IMG_20180311_101347956.thumb.jpg.f76886ede7ec84ad0cbbf7987d6c9c94.jpg

 

IMG_20180311_101402181.thumb.jpg.af4e1359b5204967dcd82b59bacf5b26.jpg

 

 

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