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Maths. Not my strong point…


CotswoldDoItUpper

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I’ve made something following YouTube videos. This sentence puts the fear of god into my wife. 
 

I’ve made (using off cuts and leftover UFH pipes) a rudimentary solar water heater for the paddling pool (yes, spoilt kids!). 
 

it’s about 95cm diameter circle. The paddling pool Is 950L when full. Water pumped from the pool with a fountain pump and then returned to the pool at the opposite end. 
 

know that I can (potentially!) make it more efficient by spraying black and enclosing in some form of frame with glass/acrylic front but not going to bother if it’s a waste of time.
 

will either have any impact at all?!? 

9DC0A29A-ED34-4D9A-B666-EFF1E251B1D7.jpeg

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Yes. For many years I had a home brewed panel on the roof connected to the DHW tank using a solar pump (like the Solartwin scheme). The panel was a roughly 5' square patch of DPC with 8mm black tube ziptied to it in a zigzag. This sat in a panel with twinwall roofing as front and back. And yes it worked very well.

 

Pain it black and put it in a box, make it look a bit like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255244395162

 

or buy an Intex mat for a bit more surface area

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154993208894

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31 minutes ago, CotswoldDoItUpper said:

I’ve made something following YouTube videos. This sentence puts the fear of god into my wife. 
 

I’ve made (using off cuts and leftover UFH pipes) a rudimentary solar water heater for the paddling pool (yes, spoilt kids!). 
 

it’s about 95cm diameter circle. The paddling pool Is 950L when full. Water pumped from the pool with a fountain pump and then returned to the pool at the opposite end. 
 

know that I can (potentially!) make it more efficient by spraying black and enclosing in some form of frame with glass/acrylic front but not going to bother if it’s a waste of time.
 

will either have any impact at all?!? 

9DC0A29A-ED34-4D9A-B666-EFF1E251B1D7.jpeg

Spray it matt black. 

 

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Yes will work, but how much? We have a solar tube system, just black pipes,  in Spain. Half the area of the pool, facing south on a gantry. It can heat 60m3 by 3C on a midsummer's day  but the emerging water is only 0.5C warmer.

The cleaning pump runs it so no running cost. Allowing for the pump running I calculated 100 x efficiency.

Cotswolds on a sunny day, not facing the sun, small pool? Deduct pump running cost. You tell us.

Good fun though. Well done.

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Thanks all, I’m waiting for it to be sunny to see if I can feel the difference between the pool and output pipe. 
 

Matt black spray coming up! 
 

@ProDavethe pipes are at attached to a bit of leftover caberboard with nail in pipe clips. It only took half an hour or so!

@saveasteading were less then 1cubic m so hopefully less of a challenge. Pipes equivalent to approx 1/4 of the surface area.

 

what info do I need to know in order to calculate what the potential might be for the pool temp? I have another 40m of pipe which I could add in series and get (almost) double the temp increase?

 

ive got some leftover 100mm PIR. Should I mount it on this? Any point? 

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4 hours ago, CotswoldDoItUpper said:

I’ve made something following YouTube videos. This sentence puts the fear of god into my wife. 
 

I’ve made (using off cuts and leftover UFH pipes) a rudimentary solar water heater for the paddling pool (yes, spoilt kids!). 
 

it’s about 95cm diameter circle. The paddling pool Is 950L when full. Water pumped from the pool with a fountain pump and then returned to the pool at the opposite end. 
 

know that I can (potentially!) make it more efficient by spraying black and enclosing in some form of frame with glass/acrylic front but not going to bother if it’s a waste of time.
 

will either have any impact at all?!? 

9DC0A29A-ED34-4D9A-B666-EFF1E251B1D7.jpeg

Your invention and time make @Onoff ‘s efforts look tame . You are the new God .

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4 hours ago, CotswoldDoItUpper said:

leftover 100mm PIR. Should I mount it on this?

I don't think so. The amount of heat lost to the ground will be tiny.

 

It is fun to turn the pump off for a bit, then you get the same effect as when a hose in the sun is run...lovely hot water for a very short time.

Thereafter the temperature difference will be small, but constant.

If the water isn't too horrible, and retained for the next day, then a cover keeps the heat in....more prevention of evaporation than conventional cooling.

 

I read a US contractor saying he refused to put in solar heating unless the client also allowed for a cover.

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The surface area of the pipe exposed to the sun is less than that of the pool as a whole. You might be better off putting thick black plastic in the bottom of the pool, and maybe some bubble wrap on top of the water when it isn't in use. The heat is directly transferred to the water, so fewer losses and no need for a pump. Plus more surface area, so more energy.

 

4 hours ago, CotswoldDoItUpper said:

ive got some leftover 100mm PIR. Should I mount it on this? Any point? 

 

It might be more effective if you mount the pool on the PIR.

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If the water is cooler than the ambient air temp then don't insulate the pipe, better to have free air flow and gather some of the heat from the air. Don't glaze it as that will reduce the amount of light falling on it. 

 

Cover the pool. Evaporative heat loss is killer. 

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22 hours ago, CotswoldDoItUpper said:

ive got some leftover 100mm PIR. Should I mount it on this? Any point? 

No make a tight fitting cover for the pool (tight fit into the top) to let the heat build up before use 

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I wonder if floating some black plastic on top would both heat the surface of the water and stop evaporation at the same time? I guess stratification will limit the effectiveness but I bet lots of us have got some heavy gauge DPM to hand and it maximises surface area.

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