Jump to content

32mm Waste Pipe in Metal Frame wall


Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, saveasteading said:

I hate it. It gets used to overcome all sorts of issues that have better solutions.

It has cost me thousands, when it leaks over metal cladding, doesn't come off again and needs a whole wall replacing. Mt nobody did it but my cleient didnt care who did it.

It fills voids with potential damage through damp.

It probably shrinks over time.

It drips and sticks.

 

So even for my own job with my own control, I would find another way. Probably stuffing the gap with surplus foam packaging, which will be  a more reliable and flexible solution.  And can be removed if necessary.

Your buying the wrong stuff. 
i changed to the illbruck brand a couple of years ago and haven’t used any of the high expansion air leaky rubbish since. 
if you buy it in a box of 12 it’s not a lot dearer. 
get a can, it’s like chalk and cheese. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, saveasteading said:

 

Not me, It is in the back of every bodger's van.

 

What is so good about this Illbruck, as I might look into it.

It’s a closed cell foam, not open cell. So the resulting dried blob is like a firm rubber ball as opposed to the rice crispy like texture of the cheapo screw fix rubbish. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

So totally different chemically.

stays flexible long-term?

Is the expansion controllable?

 

It's really good. Better than the Soudal Low Expansion I was using. Goes off to like a tough, flexible rubber skin rather than a 'crunchy' mass. I struggled to cut it like "normal" foam.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

It's really good. Better than the Soudal Low Expansion I was using. Goes off to like a tough, flexible rubber skin rather than a 'crunchy' mass. I struggled to cut it like "normal" foam.  

But when you f up after using this rubber foam it’s going to be a bitch to get out . I always assume any ‘fix’ on a f up could be another f up that needs removing at a later date .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Almost ready to cover up with APR and plasterboard. I used Kilmat as @Nickfromwales suggested to help with any noise. The clips are 40mm clips used on 32mm pipe with foam tape wrapped around to reduce noise transfer. The pipe exits the wall within a 100mm square from the floor and the wall. At the other end you can see the pipe exit at around 500mm from the floor and with H and C written just above where I am going to send the water feeds through. I think those holes are 60mm higher than the waste hole and 80mm apart. The plan is for the feeds to then split inside the room to feed the two basins as that puts fewer fittings in the wall. I'll need to use elbows on the feed pipes as the wall cavity is only 70mm and the bend radius is 120mm/80mm for 15mm/10mm pipe. I could exit the wall at an angle but I think that could look bad.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.ed508e354aa15ce10c07ef599d2b88cc.jpeg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, MortarThePoint said:

The plan is for the feeds to then split inside the room to feed the two basins as that puts fewer fittings in the wall. I'll need to use elbows on the feed pipes as the wall cavity is only 70mm and the bend radius is 120mm/80mm for 15mm/10mm pipe.

Don't panic about the fittings as Hep2o stuff is simply bombproof.

4 hours ago, MortarThePoint said:

I could exit the wall at an angle but I think that could look bad.

Defo avoid doing that ;) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 13/06/2022 at 22:47, Nickfromwales said:

Don't panic about the fittings as Hep2o stuff is simply bombproof.

Defo avoid doing that ;) 

 

Placing the pipes between two layers of 25mm APR. I wanted 15mm pipe sticking out of the wall to attach the basin flexis to so used a 15mm/10mm reducer and 15mm elbow. Where I'm going to box out near the floor I was able to send the 10mm pipe through at a slight angle to allow it to fit in the 70mm cavity.

 

I pushed the Hep2O fittings together really hard, but the In4Sure rumble was very hard to feel except for the reducer. I couldn't rotate the last elbows either as they had to be assembled once already through the wall. I don't want to disassemble it and reassemble in a different order that allows turning. How important is that?

 

IMG_20220614_190032a.thumb.jpg.79395ea2ec6b044802ca3d6802fad444.jpgIMG_20220614_190017a.thumb.jpg.43f60f84842283e3690f900aa79057d9.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...