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fascias, soffits, guttering help


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hi, I'm about to start the flat roof for my small extension and I need a little help on how to do the fascias before the roofer arrives.

 

do I fit plywood to the ends of the joists (vertically & horizontally) and then cover them with PVC fascia and soffit boards?

 

i'm sure my chippy and roofer will know this but I want to know before I speak to them (and look knowledgeable !!)

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Fascia needs to be around 18-20mm thick overall so....

 

Either use 11mm OSB with a 9mm capping, or use an 18mm uPVC fascia. 

 

How the fascia is done depends on the flat roof finish though - what are you using ..?

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1 hour ago, PeterW said:

Fascia needs to be around 18-20mm thick overall so....

 

Either use 11mm OSB with a 9mm capping, or use an 18mm uPVC fascia. 

 

How the fascia is done depends on the flat roof finish though - what are you using ..?

 

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

thanks very much. some good information here.

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1 hour ago, PeterW said:

Fascia needs to be around 18-20mm thick overall so....

 

Either use 11mm OSB with a 9mm capping, or use an 18mm uPVC fascia. 

 

How the fascia is done depends on the flat roof finish though - what are you using ..?

Thanks very much for your advice. Understood - I'll go for the 18mm !

 

I'm using GRP roof.

 

Edited by sarah barrows
additional question
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I would never just use the plastic fascia board on its own, even the 18mm stuff.  Personally I use some 1" timber with either 9mm or 18mm fascia board on top.

 

Are you fitting any soffit? Normally goes on before fascia.

 

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

I'm looking to (DIY) install uPVC over-cladding on top of existing sound fascia boards in order to reduce future high level maintenance (re-painting every 3 years or so).  I'm looking for some advice on how to finish off the over-cladding on the gable-ends where the over-cladding will butt against the underside of the concrete roof tiles.  I see this as potential weak point which could result in rain ingress due to the uneven profiles on the underside of the roof tiles.  I was considering a line of silicon mastic where the two surfaces meet, but I am not sure if this is the best way to tackle this issue, particularly given that mastic should be replaced every 5 years to maintain integrity, which seems to defeat my goal of having zero high level maintenance.  For information, I have attached some photos which shows the existing timber facia and the underside of the roof tiles.

IMG_3941.JPG

IMG_3940.JPG

IMG_3942.JPG

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I think the easy solution is to use powder coated, or anodised, aluminium cladding, rather than uPVC.  I think you could probably slip that up under the tiles and just bond it to the fascia, perhaps with screws into the soffit.  It might cost a little more in materials, but would be a lot quicker to fit, which may offset the extra cost.  You can get aluminium folded, with a drip rail, into an L shape, to clad the soffit as well, and make for a neat looking job that then would be maintenance free.

Edited by JSHarris
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44 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

I think the easy solution is to use powder coated, or anodised, aluminium cladding, rather than uPVC.  I think you could probably slip that up under the tiles and just bond it to the fascia, perhaps with screws into the soffit.

 

JSH, that sounds a good option that I hadn't considered! ...I would be grateful if you could you point me to any websites where I can purchase the required materials?  I don't really want to cover the existing soffit boards, as over the 20 years + I have been in the house, they have shown no signs of deterioration, albeit I did re-paint them 2 years ago, although i didn't feel this was necessary at the time.  I just want a returned lip on the over-cladding that returns about 20mm neatly under the bottom edge of the fascia board.

 

PeterW, I don't want to touch the roof tiles as I feel this could lead me into problems that would be beyond my capabilities, also, I have this issue on all four of the gable ends so I feel this would be a mammoth task, for me anyway.

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I'll have a dig around, but I'm sure someone on here had some made up, and it wasn't monstrously expensive, IIRC.  I've found one example, here, that gives an idea of what this stuff looks like in section: https://www.guttercrest.co.uk/aluminium-combined-soffit-fascia-soffits-fascias-eaves-cladding-systems.html

 

I have a feeling that people like North West Aluminium, the people that make the Kytun aluminium dry verge system (which we used - it's very neat) may do made to measure sections.  With luck whoever it was on here that fitted aluminium fascias might pop in with some contacts.

 

Edited to add:  Just found another possibility: http://www.marleyalutec.co.uk/products/evoke-fascia-soffit-and-copings/marley-alutec-evoke-composite-aluminium-

Edited by JSHarris
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I had custom window cills folded and powder coated to match my windows by:

 

http://www.mspcladding.co.uk

 

I did get quotes from them for guttering as well but ended up going down a different route. Basically, if it can be folded, they will do it, and price wise, I found them to be a lot cheaper than the prices advertised elsewhere.

 

I found them to be very helpful and happy to deal with small orders (mine was less than £300). My builder now uses them.

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20 hours ago, PeterW said:

Any chance you can move the tiles ...? It's an unusual design as you would normally have a cloaking board but it looks like the tiles are laid on the top of the wall ..?

 

PeterW, I'm swinging back to your suggestion of moving the tiles.  After doing a little digging I believe the tiles on the gable end are called concrete cloaked verge tiles.  Do you think it would be possible to prise (drag) the tiles away from the current timber fascia board (gently using a bolster or pinch bar) by about 7mm to allow a 9mm uPVC fascia overcladding to slip underneath, or would I be in danger of stressing the tiles which might result in hairline fractures at some future date? Your further thoughts would be appreciated.

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49 minutes ago, B52s said:

 

PeterW, I'm swinging back to your suggestion of moving the tiles.  After doing a little digging I believe the tiles on the gable end are called concrete cloaked verge tiles.  Do you think it would be possible to prise (drag) the tiles away from the current timber fascia board (gently using a bolster or pinch bar) by about 7mm to allow a 9mm uPVC fascia overcladding to slip underneath, or would I be in danger of stressing the tiles which might result in hairline fractures at some future date? Your further thoughts would be appreciated.

The tile is almost certainly nailed down and there won't be that much movement in a nail hole. Also if you could move it, you would be parting the interlocking joint to the next tile.

 

I echo the suggestions above to use aluminium which I am sure would slip between the tile and fascia.

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14 minutes ago, ProDave said:

The tile is almost certainly nailed down and there won't be that much movement in a nail hole. Also if you could move it, you would be parting the interlocking joint to the next tile.

 

 

I don't think the concrete interlocked tiles are nailed down. It was my understanding that the tiles are merely laid (interlocked) on the roof? Because the gable end tiles are cloaked verge tiles I assumed that they were designed to suit various roof sizes and therefore will have a degree of tolerance/float to enable the cloaked verge tile to be positioned to suit each particular roof.  But perhaps the interlocking tile profile does not provide the movement that I was expecting.

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The tiles are all fixes width with interlocking tiles. There is about 1 or 2mm "play" in the interlocking joint, so over the width of a typical roof you cam get a bit of adjustment. Half width tiles are also available to get you closer.  But you wont get much movement at one joint.  The tiles should by current standards be hailed at the top and clipped at the bottom, but in years gone by it was common practice not to nail them.

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7 minutes ago, ProDave said:

The tiles are all fixes width with interlocking tiles. There is about 1 or 2mm "play" in the interlocking joint...

 

Okay, that takes me full circle back to aluminium as suggested by JSH.

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