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Mini Stove > Cabin job.


zoothorn

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6 hours ago, PeterW said:

@zoothorn the screws are fine, carry on 

 

The connector/adapter  one is easy. Stand the ename pipe on the floor and put a good lather of fire cement onto the top edge of the pipe and the adapter. Push them together and then wearing gloves, reach down inside the adapter and you can feel the bottom edge of the adapter. Using a damp sponge, push any excess cement up into your join and smooth it out the wipe any excess off the outside and wedge the whole pipe somewhere upright for the cement to dry. 
 

When that is dried, fit the enamel pipe into the stove, clip the extended twin wall into the top of the adapter and you’re all done. 


Appreciated. Super silly prep i know.. but important job to have every facet ready, job understood & a plan in place.

 

I think Im set. Just a good weather window & can crack on.

 

My stove guy replied at last, said tho my 'spiggot' male end seems long, using plenty of cement smeared around it should be fine w'out cutting a bit off. Good.

 

All weather silicone to buy, use my screws ^ then galv spray the heads (? my idea) then a layer of this sealant ontop of them too. Putting some also on the jonny-flue join too.

 

Thanks- Zoot

 

Doing a mock 

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8 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Putting some also on the jonny-flue join too.

 Needs a thin bead on the outside edge where the rubber meets the twin wall but it doesn’t need a lot. 

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8 hours ago, zoothorn said:

My stove guy replied at last, said tho my 'spiggot' male end seems long, using plenty of cement smeared around it should be fine w'out cutting a bit off. Good.


When you do this, wrap a couple of times round above and below where you do the cement with some masking tape and then when it’s dry just peel off - leaves a neat line then

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13 minutes ago, PeterW said:


When you do this, wrap a couple of times round above and below where you do the cement with some masking tape and then when it’s dry just peel off - leaves a neat line then


Good tip that. Will do.
 

Finally looking fwd to the job now.. dreading it just 2 days ago. So important all this prep you see, for me.

 

Thx zoot.

 

 

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Job.. done! Woohoo!

 

Started raining of course soon as I cut me hole.. & (new) gun whatnot broke when I went to stick my johnny down. 
 

But rain stopped, dried up.. & fab results. This, I think, is the most satisfying build job so far. 4 hours flat out 'blitzed' it.

 

It warrants a zoot musical interlude, before pics tomorrow.

 

 

Thanks so much. Zooter.

 

 

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I've got a few things to address before firing up.

 

1. is sealing around fireboard gaps/ joins, got some NN'sense fire tube stuff.

 

2. Im a bit short on the fireboard, so need something to add top of enamel flue -ideally an offcut cement board bit, if I can find.

 

3. I have wedges in my ceiling oval at the mo, I was going to add L shape brackets, under the johnny, 3 to secure flue solidly but was in a rush. So maybe add say two inside @ pic 2? 
 

4. some plate thing to cover over the ceiling oval cutout, not so easy being an oval shape.

 

5. Lastly: something actually in the ceiling gap.. Ive seen some folks stuff rockwool here. Need to find offcut/ can do this job & 4 in time. No rush, warm weather on it's way.

 

Thanks, zh

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2 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Fit one of these to the inside of the ceiling, it will tidy up the hole and secure the pipe  (choose size to match your pipe, don't just buy that one)

 

https://www.flue-pipes.com/finishing-plate-30-125.html

 

(this covers item 3 and 4 on your list)


Hi ProDave,

 

useful link thanks. Did see these things. Thing is as it's on a slope, this won't fit too well I'd have thought? Its that pesky oval shape etc.

 

What about something in the 1" gap around twinwall, actually in the ceiling?

 

Thanks, zoot

 

 

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They come in different levels of "ovaliity"  that one is designed for a slope of 0 degrees to 30 degrees so should fit your roof. That's what I used in the mobile home.  I used the 45 degree version for the flue through the house roof, that is a more elongated oval shape.

 

Fill the gap with some rockwool or similar non flammable insulation.

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10 minutes ago, ProDave said:

They come in different levels of "ovaliity"  that one is designed for a slope of 0 degrees to 30 degrees so should fit your roof. That's what I used in the mobile home.  I used the 45 degree version for the flue through the house roof, that is a more elongated oval shape.

 

Fill the gap with some rockwool or similar non flammable insulation.


Aha great thanks, understood. I forgot rockwool was non flammable. I do have my 1" of ecotherm board sandwiched between my roof layers. A bit late in the day, but this is no issue.. is it?

 

Grateful, zoot

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Got any of that cement board left? 

 

Take a rectangle of it. Mark an oval to suit dead centre plus say 5mm all round.

 

Cut the oval out with an old jigsaw blade. 

 

Cut in two halves.

 

Screw to the roof.

 

Intumescent mastic the gap around the pipe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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31 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Got any of that cement board left? 

 

Take a rectangle of it. Mark an oval to suit dead centre plus say 5mm all round.

 

Cut the oval out with an old jigsaw blade. 

 

Cut in two halves.

 

Screw to the roof.

 

Intumescent mastic the gap around the pipe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Hi Onoff. No unfortunately I don't have or I'd use it to heighten the boards' area up to the black flue top bit. I measured wrongly in fact for the 4 sections of board I cut & used from 1 sheet, hence the odd sized bits & not high enough. Mistake.

 

Ive gone for my ebay one. I just mocked up two 158mm W halves in cardboard, as the seller shows its W to be. & with a bit of bending- should do.

 

Just need to find some rockwool bits. I do have some knauff insulation roll, the beige stuff ( in a white/ blue big roll). Would this be similarly fire resistant?

 

Thanks, zoot

 

 

 

 

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5 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Thing is as it's on a slope, this won't fit too well

This has happened before and been thought of I think.

 

I got a standard one and fitted it to a sloping ceiling, at about half your slope, and it just worked somehow. It was not a solid circle but had a break in it, and then a nut and bolt connector. If there is any gap it is too small to see.

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3 hours ago, saveasteading said:

This has happened before and been thought of I think.

 

I got a standard one and fitted it to a sloping ceiling, at about half your slope, and it just worked somehow. It was not a solid circle but had a break in it, and then a nut and bolt connector. If there is any gap it is too small to see.


Hi SAS. That sounds like the one Ive gone for.. as long as there's a bit of give.. should be ok.

 

Cheers, zoot.

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3 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Anyone know if this particular loft roll is ok to go in my ceiling gap?

 

Say it's non-combustible..

 

https://insulation4less.co.uk/products/knauf-combi-cut

 

zh

 

 

Well, it says it's fire resistant. The data sheet on the link you gave days it's rated Euroclass A1. Seems that's the highest there is:

 

https://www.rockwool.com/uk/resources-and-tools/building-regulations/fire-regulations/euroclasses/

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2 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Well, it says it's fire resistant. The data sheet on the link you gave days it's rated Euroclass A1. Seems that's the highest there is:

 

https://www.rockwool.com/uk/resources-and-tools/building-regulations/fire-regulations/euroclasses/


Hmm.. seems good to go then, but no rush if waiting on my plate thing. So will see if Peter &/or ProDave concur maybe 1st.

 

Thanks Onoff, zoot.

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If it says non-combustible then it is.... and it does.

You should wrap / squeeze it in tight and make sure there are no gaps.

 

For fun, try setting light to a small offcut. It should neither burn nor melt.

Once the stove is working throw another small offcut onto the fully heated fire....and it will likely melt and revert to sand, but not burn,  but that is a higher temperature than in the flue.

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18 hours ago, saveasteading said:

If it says non-combustible then it is.... and it does.

You should wrap / squeeze it in tight and make sure there are no gaps.

 

For fun, try setting light to a small offcut. It should neither burn nor melt.

Once the stove is working throw another small offcut onto the fully heated fire....and it will likely melt and revert to sand, but not burn,  but that is a higher temperature than in the flue.


Good idea.. will do a test. Sand eh? Interesting.

 

Am I stuffing it right up to fill the whole rubber johnny? Or just a band around the ceiling section removed.

 

Thanks. Zh

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10 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Am I stuffing it right up

Certainly not, you are taking best advice and doing a thorough job.

 

Ahh I see..   yes put it everywhere you can. If it isn't protecting flammable materials it is keeping the chimney cosy and aiding extraction.

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9 hours ago, saveasteading said:

Certainly not, you are taking best advice and doing a thorough job.

 

Ahh I see..   yes put it everywhere you can. If it isn't protecting flammable materials it is keeping the chimney cosy and aiding extraction.


I am certainly taking great advice.. no doubt there: followed Peter's steps to a T & I was on a sure footing. Thanks.

 

Good that's sorted then. Wait for plate/ flue done. Checked in rain last ev & all's well. Really pleased too.
 

----
 

Very last Q if I can chaps. As you can see on page before, I was an eejet measuring & fell short with my fireboard. So top of enamel flue is unprotected by 9" H.

 

Now thankfully the black flue is a good 8" away from both side cabin walls here.

 

Would I be ok to just paint the walls say 3x in Muuri paint? Or should I wait & add 10" H more cement board? When an offcut comes along.. Annoying.

 

Thanks, zoot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Paint 10" sq (8mm D) ceramic tiles 2x in Muuri paint... then gun adhesive/ stick to walls here?

 

Pic again. Also could do same around stove, to broaden the fireboard width by 10".

 

Pic again..

 

 

F0F23F37-14D2-4264-A93A-78CAA2BDF54E.jpeg

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