shower glass and fixings

[Vijay]

Next job on my Mums bathroom is to fit the walk in shower glass which is 1200mm wide. I'll use a top bar fixing at the open end.

 

is 8mm thick enough or should I go for 10mm?

 

Can anyone suggest a minimal fixing to attach the glass to the wall (vertical fixing) or should I just use a standard wall profile?

 

Would it be ok to fix the bottom of the glass to the tiled floor with just something like CT1 or would I have to have some sort of floor profile? I'd prefer to use CT1 as if I want to remove the glass in the future and give them a full walk in area, I can with no holes to waterproof/repair.

 

Cheers

 

Vijay

[PeterW]

Stand the glass on 2 or 3 5mm spacers and tape the floor and the glass - then put clear CT1 between the spacers, tool it and let it cure for 24 hours. Pull the spacers and then fill the gaps, tool it and then take the tape off. 

[Vijay]

23 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Stand the glass on 2 or 3 5mm spacers and tape the floor and the glass - then put clear CT1 between the spacers, tool it and let it cure for 24 hours. Pull the spacers and then fill the gaps, tool it and then take the tape off. 

 

Cheers Peter, really like that idea

Have you come across a minimal wall profile at all?

[PeterW]

Yep - give PS Glass a call - they will have what you need

 

https://www.psglassfittings.co.uk/product/shower-u-channels-for-10mm-glass/

[Vijay]

Cheers Peter, pretty local too.

 

You know the way you suggested for fixing the glass bottom to floor, how strong do you think that bond would be?  I wondered if it was really strong, I could do the same on the vertical edge to wall and maybe use  something like this at the top of the wall/glass? https://www.psglassfittings.co.uk/product/stainless-steel-gx45-1-glass-to-wall-clamp/

[PeterW]

No the glass will be unsafe - I wouldn’t trust the sheet glass to that especially with someone who may lean against it. Trick is to carefully drill the holes for the screen in the grout crosses between tiles and then you can grout it over if you remove it ans you’ll barely notice. 

[vala]

Could you not just use a channel which you screw through on the bottom and wall and push the glass into that?

I’ve just fitted a glass partition for the shower but used a tile profile which had a 12mm channel. A bead of CT-1 in the channel then slotted it in…..and when I say slotted I mean a block of wood and a hammer and forced the glass in? toughened glass is pretty tough.

 

This is the profile I used but I’m sure there’s one that doesn’t need tiling over

https://www.schluter.co.uk/deco-sg.aspx

[Nickfromwales]

CT1 on the deck is plenty, as long as a proper and robust metal wall profile has been used. Do NOT ever dream of doing away with the wall profile ?. 
8mm at that length of screen would benefit from a top stay bar, 10mm probably good without it. That’s said…..( here comes the caveat )……. if it’s a regular domestic setting. You have to include the much higher likelihood of someone using this and taking a tumble, plus that likelihood increasing over time / use, so you should factor that in now for maximum safety. That assumed, I would say to fit a top stay bar now, perpendicular to the glass at the 2/3rds point to be safe. 

[Temp]

Many glass companies can supply frameless shower panels complete with fixing holes for two or three wall mounting brackets and a floor channel.. example bracket..

 

 

 

 

8mm glass is fine.

 

Ours sits in a chrome plated U shape channel stuck to the flat top of our showers tray with some sort of adhesive (CT1?). Been solid for 13 years.

[Temp]

Just a heads up.. toughened glass can easily shatter so important not to rest the glass on a concrete or tiled floor or any grit that might cause a stress point. Mounting brackets come with compliant washers so you dont put point loads on the glass. 

[Big Jimbo]

2 hours ago, Temp said:

Just a heads up.. toughened glass can easily shatter so important not to rest the glass on a concrete or tiled floor or any grit that might cause a stress point. Mounting brackets come with compliant washers so you dont put point loads on the glass. 

And when they go, they go. Just because they shatter into tiny pieces, if you are holding them at the time, your hand get cut !

[Vijay]

thanks everyone. I will deffo use a wall channel and also a top stay bar as it is for my elderly parents, so need it to be secure   I will look at 10mm glass too for extra durability

Out of interest, for the glass with the easy clean coatings, are the coatings all the same or are some better than others?

[saveasteading]

On 01/01/2022 at 15:15, Nickfromwales said:

likelihood of someone using this and taking a tumble,

 

Had that. The glass was only siliconed at the base (and only on one side as instructions) and so pushed loose of the base. The wall channel held it in place and wasn't damaged, and the top stay also 'stayed'. 

Refixing involved removal of the line of silicone and doing it again.

Therefore I agree with the above:   always use a full length wall channel and a stay.  In fact I would only ever use an integrated kit.

 

I like PeterW idea of the spacers. Buildings move a lot and the glass could be stressed and break. In theory anyway and I haven't seen it...perhaps the wall channel rubber allows some movement.