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looking for mature trees and stuff!


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Guest Alphonsox
3 hours ago, Cpd said:

Over the last three years i have planted about 3000 + trees in my garden, they were bare root stock, and only 12-18 inches tall, last year there were some reaching over six foot but most about 4 foot, i live in a very exposed coastal area and it takes longer for them to get used to the conditions but once established they will really get going. As previously said its better to plant next Autumn. Small young trees planted in well prepared ground with good weed control  will establish quickly and its a joy to see them grow.  Cant help on supplier as my trees came via a personal contact "in the trade" at a very discounted rate.....    

 

@CpdWhich varieties have you planted ? - we're in a very windswept coastal area but would like to plant some trees around the garden next winter but are unsure what to plant.

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@Alphonsox my first bit of advise would be for you to have a really good look at what is being grown locally, this can help you to create a safe list of plants that you know are going to work in your area. Then its down to the micro climate within your garden, sheltered corners etc can give you more options. I have an exceptionally large garden with many diffrent aspects and at least 3 major changes in soil type (rich volcanic - peat - clay/shale) there are two springs on the property and a large pond and marsh area so i get to really play around with what trees i can grow. However in the more exposed areas prone to south westerly gales and salt laden winds........ i am growing silver birch (betula pendula) Rowan (sorbus aucuparia) Aspen (populus tremula) cherry plum (prunus cerasifera) I have also having success with griselina littoralis but its only been in two years....  there are many types of willow that can grow well in the right location and worth investigating. on the small tree / shrub front the best of the pick for me would be New Zealand holly (olearia macrodonta) its pretty and supper hardy and grows quick ! I am also growing sea buckthorn on my dry slopes. Hawthorn and blackthorn are both doing well as is hazel. I can and am growing a couple of hardy fuchsia with great ease and proppergating cuttings is sooo easy, they are great for hedging and for providing protection for other plants. I have hundreds of scots pine but the ones in sheltered corners are really doing great, the others get salt burn every winter but then get away in the spring.... i intend to plant some larch as it does well locally but like so many trees there is disease within 30 miles..... anyway as i said look at whats working locally, i have planted apple pear and plum but they are tucked in and surrounded by sacrificial trees, ie trees that provide shelter now but will get cut back or removed as the fruit trees develop. There are many really good hardy salt tolerant trees but they are specialised and come with a hefty price tag, so out of my reach....  try and get a wide variety of trees in if you have the space as disease is spreading so quick and if all your eggs are in one basket..... apologies for bad spelling i am a stone mason not a words smith. 

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3 hours ago, PeterW said:

So that "Silver Birch" is a bit of an unusual reference as they normally go with latin - a true Silver Birch (Betula Pendula vars.) and a Himalayan Birch (Betula Utilis vars.) are easily mistaken, and the White or Common Birch (Betula pubescens vars.) can cross with both so you could end up with anything really. I doubt  a council planning officer could tell the difference really as they all look pretty similar. Semi-mature is another unusual statement - birch is mature from 20-45 years so if you said 10 years old it would be 7-9m tall and probably need machinery to move it - and cost you £5-600 most likely.

 

I would query the 1500mm photinia - is that the mature height or the planted height..??

 

 

Hi peterW

I think our application was more detailed than councils reply, however the magnolia tree will be up to 10' tall, the silver birch up to 9' but the red robin plants will be only be up to 1' high...regardless!>:(

Happy to spend on magnolia...like to see it in my lifetimeB|

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Guest Alphonsox
On 19/04/2017 at 15:01, Cpd said:

@Alphonsox my first bit of advise would be for you to have a really good look at what is being grown locally, this can help you to create a safe list of plants that you know are going to work in your area. Then its down to the micro climate within your garden, sheltered corners etc can give you more options. I have an exceptionally large garden with many diffrent aspects and at least 3 major changes in soil type (rich volcanic - peat - clay/shale) there are two springs on the property and a large pond and marsh area so i get to really play around with what trees i can grow. However in the more exposed areas prone to south westerly gales and salt laden winds........ i am growing silver birch (betula pendula) Rowan (sorbus aucuparia) Aspen (populus tremula) cherry plum (prunus cerasifera) I have also having success with griselina littoralis but its only been in two years....  there are many types of willow that can grow well in the right location and worth investigating. on the small tree / shrub front the best of the pick for me would be New Zealand holly (olearia macrodonta) its pretty and supper hardy and grows quick ! I am also growing sea buckthorn on my dry slopes. Hawthorn and blackthorn are both doing well as is hazel. I can and am growing a couple of hardy fuchsia with great ease and proppergating cuttings is sooo easy, they are great for hedging and for providing protection for other plants. I have hundreds of scots pine but the ones in sheltered corners are really doing great, the others get salt burn every winter but then get away in the spring.... i intend to plant some larch as it does well locally but like so many trees there is disease within 30 miles..... anyway as i said look at whats working locally, i have planted apple pear and plum but they are tucked in and surrounded by sacrificial trees, ie trees that provide shelter now but will get cut back or removed as the fruit trees develop. There are many really good hardy salt tolerant trees but they are specialised and come with a hefty price tag, so out of my reach....  try and get a wide variety of trees in if you have the space as disease is spreading so quick and if all your eggs are in one basket..... apologies for bad spelling i am a stone mason not a words smith. 

 

@CpdThanks for the very detailed response - That's given me a lot to go and research further.

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