Insulating a party wall against Eastenders

[Adsibob]

As much as I used to like watching soaps like Eastenders, my neighbours seem to watch it all day everyday at such a high volume that I can hear it clearly in my own house. We are therefore putting up sound insulation. We were going to build a wall and attach it with genie clips (which are a type of resilient bar sold by soundstop.co.uk) to the existing party wall. The make up of the wall was going to be a combination of SBx (which is a dense honeycomb type board where the honeycomb is filled with sand) and soundproof plasterboard.

 

My builder has pointed out that however good the genie clips might be, it would be even better to have no connection to the party wall whatsoever and have a freestanding stud wall made of metal C studs running between the floor and the ceiling, with a 10mm air gap between the existing party wall and the new wall, keeping that gap empty as opposed to filling it with mineral wool. Is he right? If so, is 10mm enough, or would i get an improvement by making the gap 15mm or 20mm?

 

We are using resilient bars and soundproof plasterboard for our ceiling so not too worried about the ceiling acting as a bridge. As for the floor, we have dropped the FFL by about 38cm and laid an insulated slab underneath, so there is a lot of material for sound to travel through before it could bridge into our house via our floor.

[nod]

Forget the resultant bar and C stud C stud 

Use a 50 I stud 10 mil void Insulate with rock wool slab which will took nicely in the I stud without touching the party wall 

Two layers of 15 mil sound block =Silence 

 

[Moonshine]

as @nod above, use the GypLyner IWL system

 

https://www.british-gypsum.com/white-book-system-selector/systems-overview/linings/gyplyner-iwl?tab0=0

 

[Carrerahill]

1 hour ago, Adsibob said:

As much as I used to like watching soaps like Eastenders, my neighbours seem to watch it all day everyday at such a high volume that I can hear it clearly in my own house. We are therefore putting up sound insulation. We were going to build a wall and attach it with genie clips (which are a type of resilient bar sold by soundstop.co.uk) to the existing party wall. The make up of the wall was going to be a combination of SBx (which is a dense honeycomb type board where the honeycomb is filled with sand) and soundproof plasterboard.

 

My builder has pointed out that however good the genie clips might be, it would be even better to have no connection to the party wall whatsoever and have a freestanding stud wall made of metal C studs running between the floor and the ceiling, with a 10mm air gap between the existing party wall and the new wall, keeping that gap empty as opposed to filling it with mineral wool. Is he right? If so, is 10mm enough, or would I get an improvement by making the gap 15mm or 20mm?

 

We are using resilient bars and soundproof plasterboard for our ceiling so not too worried about the ceiling acting as a bridge. As for the floor, we have dropped the FFL by about 38cm and laid an insulated slab underneath, so there is a lot of material for sound to travel through before it could bridge into our house via our floor.

We insulated a party wall, our reasons were different, we lived in a semi-detached, when we moved in we had 2 elderly neighbours, I knew what was going to happen and knew their house would end up on the market soon enough, then we could have got noisy neighbours or quiet neighbours. 50/50. So I said well, lets soundproof now, because it's not a gamble worth taking when the whole room was about to get a full overboard/flooring/wiring/decoration.

 

We got a lovely, helpful, quiet couple who could not parent a young boy. A little towrag who apparently went to bed at the same time as his parents every night and was the most misbehaved little twit I have ever had the misfortune of knowing. The little darling would thump about well past 21:00 (at 2-3 years old) right up to 23:45ish, throw tantrums and slammed doors. We could hear aspects of this and that was with soundproofing! We often would comment how bad it would have been had we not, although I always said I missed out on the satisfaction of ordering loads of soundproofing and making it clear to everyone on the street we were having soundproofing installed to not so subtly show what we thought of the towrag's noise. 

 

I used that silicon isolation adhesive stuff and set new studs about 10mm off the existing brick wall, I isolated, as best I could the top and bottom from the house by trimming the floorboards back from the wall removing the physical connection to the wall where they had been mortared in.

 

I then stuffed it with an sound insulation rockwool type thing. I then boarded it and had it skimmed. It works well. The isolation and hefty wad of rockwool stuff I think did the trick. Nothing too fancy to be honest, just using basic techniques to isolate.

 

It works well, if I was doing it all again I would have probably done an OSB sheet then plasterboard, reason being we experimented with this in the build and have some really good sound properties by just using thick studs, OSB and PB. It more or less looked like a timber frame version of what Nod posted above.

 

Maybe even used soundboard then normal PB but at the time I had 100's of sheets of PB so it suit to use that. 

 

I didn't go in for proprietary systems because they all seemed like solutions to problems that could be solved by being clever with fixings and insulation. I did contemplate resilient bar but decided I didn't like the way the wall would be supported. 

 

 

Edited October 22, 2021 by Carrerahill

[Adsibob]

1 hour ago, Moonshine said:

as @nod above, use the GypLyner IWL system

 

https://www.british-gypsum.com/white-book-system-selector/systems-overview/linings/gyplyner-iwl?tab0=0

 

 

Now I'm confused as @nod is saying to forget C-studs but the Brtish Gypsum link you've linked to gives the option of C studs.

[MikeGrahamT21]

I've just done exactly this: 

 

[Moonshine]

19 minutes ago, Adsibob said:

 

Now I'm confused as @nod is saying to forget C-studs but the Brtish Gypsum link you've linked to gives the option of C studs.

 

C-Studs can only be used if you use a fixing bracket to the wall (as below) in the Gyplyner system (not as effective acoustically as you have connections to the existing wall), for the Gyplyner IWL (independent wall liner) it needs to be I-studs for rigidity.

 

 

below if the key to that figure.

 

[MikeGrahamT21]

My C-studs are connected to the floor and ceiling using the U-channels, it doesn't touch the party wall at all.

[nod]

29 minutes ago, Adsibob said:

 

Now I'm confused as @nod is saying to forget C-studs but the Brtish Gypsum link you've linked to gives the option of C studs.

If you put C studs in free standing Each will need bracing off the wall Every 800 

Which gives sounds something to tack across 

I stood is stronger and will free standing and the Chanel’s are designed for rookwool slab to took into 

 

BGs white book is quite general 

 

[nod]

58 minutes ago, Moonshine said:

 

C-Studs can only be used if you use a fixing bracket to the wall (as below) in the Gyplyner system (not as effective acoustically as you have connections to the existing wall), for the Gyplyner IWL (independent wall liner) it needs to be I-studs for rigidity.

 

 

below if the key to that figure.

 

You wouldn’t use them on c stud 

They for gypliner 

You would use c stud tack to make brackets

Edited October 22, 2021 by nod

[saveasteading]

There is a wonderful product for this but it can be very expensive.

I obtained some flood damaged material from the manufacturer and used it very successfully. 

Could not hear a sound from next door with baby, and the neighbours got the same benefit.

 

Lead vinyl sheet, in roll form. The same as is used on radiologists' aprons and the flaps at luggage scanning.

 

Hang it loose from ceiling to floor before building the stud and plasterboard and the density combined with looseness appears to kill all known sounds.

We didn't attempt to seal it at the joints.

 

What it costs I don't know, but they were considering selling for floor covering in flats, so perhaps not too bad.

My contact doesn't appear to have a web presence.

 

I see it by googling lead vinyl sheet. Got one huge price and several POA. Over to you if interested.

[TonyT]

Mass loaded vinyl