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Washer side....


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Sounds stupid; and google seemed vague.

 

If you have a nut and bolt and 1 washer - which side does it go on? ( yes you could buy more washers to solve the conundrum ).

 

I would assume nut side - as that has more chance of moving? WTF don't they supply 2 washers! 

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You could dispense with the full nut and split washer and use a nyloc nut instead. Always, always, always lube the nut / bolt interface with copper or aluminium based anti seize compound when using nyloc nuts. 

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 Always, always, always lube the nut / bolt interface with copper or aluminium based anti seize compound when using nyloc nuts. 

Every day's a school day, and I sense a gap in my education....  why lube something that you want to stay done up tight?

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From many years of building steel structures, marine and railway engineering, the washer always goes under the part you will turn (additional washer if other side is covering a slot.

bolts always go upwards - if a nut should happen to come off the bolt will drop out and be noticeable.

never heard of lubricating nylocs as they are made to be used once.

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23 minutes ago, markc said:

From many years of building steel structures, marine and railway engineering, the washer always goes under the part you will turn (additional washer if other side is covering a slot.

bolts always go upwards - if a nut should happen to come off the bolt will drop out and be noticeable.

never heard of lubricating nylocs as they are made to be used once.

 

Best get the grinder ready if you're fitting lots of M16 A2 stainless. 

Edited by Onoff
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5 minutes ago, markc said:

bolts always go upwards - if a nut should happen to come off the bolt will drop out and be noticeable.

There are places where you would really really really rather the bolt stayed in thanks to gravity and at least the 2 parts were still held together in some form.

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4 hours ago, pocster said:

bolt

 

3 hours ago, ProDave said:

bolt

 

2 hours ago, Onoff said:

bolt

 

29 minutes ago, markc said:

bolts

 

At least no one has mentioned using screws.

 

I had never heard of lubricating nylocs, but seems it is recommended.

And it seems they can be reused.

 

I think the important bit is, if the joint is safety critical, is to use the correct washer/s and torque it up correctly.

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1 hour ago, markc said:

 

bolts always go upwards - if a nut should happen to come off the bolt will drop out and be noticeable.

 

 

I just realised how many hours of my life have been wasted screwing all those bolts into each car wheel. In future I am adopting marine engineering standards on the basis that when the single wheel bolt falls out of a wheel I will be alerted.

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2 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Obviously the full nut goes on first

 

I can't tell how much of the above was tongue in cheek?

I've read a few articles over the years and although counter intuitive, they all suggest the full nut on top.

 

This makes a bit of interesting (though some might say boring) reading 

https://www.boltscience.com/pages/twonuts.htm

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Been bolting steel up for 40 years. Only ever use a nyloc or full nut & spring washer on assemblies. Usually specified by someone a lot cleverer than me anyway. Very occasionally a castle nut and split pin and even rarer a tri pointed washer on HSFG (high strength friction grip) stuff. I'd have to go way back to think of the last time I used Aerotight or Binx nuts.

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16 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Been bolting steel up for 40 years. Only ever use a nyloc or full nut & spring washer on assemblies. Usually specified by someone a lot cleverer than me anyway. Very occasionally a castle nut and split pin and even rarer a tri pointed washer on HSFG (high strength friction grip) stuff. I'd have to go way back to think of the last time I used Aerotight or Binx nuts.

You missed Tension Control Bolts (TCB’s) and oh the pain of HSFG’s with indicating washers ?

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