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Would it not drive you nuts? The brickie boss was very embarrassed and wants to knock it down but I can't see how he can fix it, as it's the subsctructure bay that's wrong. One end is 100mm in compared to the other end.

 

I think I'll just have to live with it but bloody annoying. It's the front entrance 

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1 minute ago, Wagas said:

Would it not drive you nuts? The brickie boss was very embarrassed and wants to knock it down but I can't see how he can fix it, as it's the subsctructure bay that's wrong. One end is 100mm in compared to the other end.

 

I think I'll just have to live with it but bloody annoying. It's the front entrance 

 

Yes, yes it would ?

 

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Carpet in the entrance then.  Any form of tiles or planked floor will show up the fact the wall is not square.

 

Knock it down and rebuild.  100m out?  50mm overhang from foundation each end?

 

Does it have to be block? Is is supporting anything? how about replace with a stud wall?

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Some of the blockwork looks poor as well.  Lintel has not enough support and blockwork above and below the bearing looks like it has been added on.  Is is taking the load from a 3 ply attic truss by the looks of things!

 

If i were the building inspector I may want to see trusses off and that section taken down and rebuilt, although I can't really see how it is on the other side.

 

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3 minutes ago, Wagas said:

Tbf that's an HD steel cavity lintel as specced by the SE. Warranty guy looked at it not that it means anything

 

The steel lintel should have 150mm bearing each end (unless the SE has spec'ed it different), yours looks about 100-110mm

Edited by Moonshine
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Looking at his drawing's he's specced 100mm and had the roof design i.e knew the truss layout. I've got a tonne of steel in there including bigger steels on larger openings, countless wind posts etc so I'd have said he was quite fussy. I can only go off what the SE provides

 

Having just measured it that particular bearing is 122mm so I'm not going to lose sleep over it

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51 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Rebuild the wall in 140mm blocks at their cost. Will remove the issue with the founds. 

 

I'm struggling to work out how that'll make it straight? I've got 100mm facing brick/100mm cavity/100mm inner block

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Re the padstone and bearing. There is no bonding over the lintel, and then the padstone is supported on a skinny stack of cut blocks.

The load will not spread properly through the wall, but tend to go straight down, and the skinny column fail in buckling.

I wouldn't lose sleep over it either, as it isn't going to fall down tomorrow, but it will crack soon, and then crumble and maybe fall down.

Rebuilding must include proper bonding above and  into the rest of the wall.

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None of the block work is tied in so although it has enough bearing, just about ,that section of the wall is going to be crack city. That's a straight joint from floor to ceiling so that's going to move esp when the door gets slammed a few times.

It looks like the opening was made too big and they went back and added the small pieces to get it right, but done it the lazy ass way.

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48 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

Re the padstone and bearing. There is no bonding over the lintel, and then the padstone is supported on a skinny stack of cut blocks.

The load will not spread properly through the wall, but tend to go straight down, and the skinny column fail in buckling.

I wouldn't lose sleep over it either, as it isn't going to fall down tomorrow, but it will crack soon, and then crumble and maybe fall down.

Rebuilding must include proper bonding above and  into the rest of the wall.

 

26 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

None of the block work is tied in so although it has enough bearing, just about ,that section of the wall is going to be crack city. That's a straight joint from floor to ceiling so that's going to move esp when the door gets slammed a few times.

It looks like the opening was made too big and they went back and added the small pieces to get it right, but done it the lazy ass way.

 

Wot I said

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30 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

None of the block work is tied in so although it has enough bearing, just about ,that section of the wall is going to be crack city. That's a straight joint from floor to ceiling so that's going to move esp when the door gets slammed a few times.

It looks like the opening was made too big and they went back and added the small pieces to get it right, but done it the lazy ass way.

 

It won't have a door but will I get the SE to look at it. It does have steel wall starters, a cavity and block the other side with wall ties on every course if that makes any difference. And surely the 3inch timber wall plate spreads some of the load? Bottom line is BC's looked at it, warranty co has looked at it and now SE will look at it. If they're ok with it then... shrug

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