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Wardrobes and walls


Pocster

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Got lots of IKEA wardrobes to build ? and bolt together .

What do I do about walls being out at the side and rear .

Do I pack the rear out ?

What about that side gap . Beading it won’t make it any better as it will be on the wee also …

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Edited by pocster
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Is that the finished gap or will it be wider?

 

If wider, I would scribe some trim to fit the gap and attach this to packers between the side of the wardrobe and the wall set back to the depth of the trim. Might be tricky if you are already tight against the wall

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17 minutes ago, elite said:

Is that the finished gap or will it be wider?

 

If wider, I would scribe some trim to fit the gap and attach this to packers between the side of the wardrobe and the wall set back to the depth of the trim. Might be tricky if you are already tight against the wall

The rear I need some adjustable bolty type things to make it secure . What I hate is that the flimsy IKEA back will wobble as it’s not flush against the wall . Almost tempted to screw osb to the back ….

As for that side bit ; how do I scribe some bead to suit the variable gap ?? 

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37 minutes ago, elite said:

 

 

You can knock a scribe tool up from an offcut, use a compass, a washer or splash the cash

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Swanky-Scribe-Set-Pencils-Carpenters/dp/B07WBZ1N24/

Really interesting vid 

I have sliding doors that sit over the frame so need a skinny infill . Even if I did manage to scribe ( !!! ) a perfect 2 metre length what should I use to fill the gap ( between wall and scribe  ) caulk ???

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Remove the backs of pax cupboards that're going against a wall IMO. You'll get better air circulation for clothes freshness thanks to the gap at the back too and (if an outside wall in an older house especially) less damp.

 

Bead the bottom edge to stop jewelry falling down.

 

Cupboard comes with two brackets at the top. Two fixings into the wall. Washers or plastic packers to make up the gap. Hide the lot with the plastic cover that comes with the cupboard.

 

Side gap personal preference. 

 

I think they look better with skirting past them and a ~15mm gap that makes the wall being on the pish less visible.

 

Check that skirting is lower than door if you're planning to run skirting up to cupboard. Else you'll have fun fitting and then opening that door.

 

You can also put the whole cupboard slightly on the pish (lean it into the side wall) if carpet hides the gap at the bottom and there isn't anything on they other side.

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I have seen a LOT of problems with damp, mould and condensation in and behind fitted wardrobes and built in cupboards on outside walls.
 

problem in my opinion is that the wardrobe effectively insulates the wall from the heat in the room making it colder and more prone to collect condensation which then goes damp and mouldy 

 

remedies; don’t fit on outside walls, leave doors open!, take off plinths and leave backs on and ensure air can get out at the top, in extreme circumstances fit small low powered tubular heater inside on a thermostat. 

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1 hour ago, tonyshouse said:

I have seen a LOT of problems with damp, mould and condensation in and behind fitted wardrobes and built in cupboards on outside walls.
 

problem in my opinion is that the wardrobe effectively insulates the wall from the heat in the room making it colder and more prone to collect condensation which then goes damp and mouldy 

 

remedies; don’t fit on outside walls, leave doors open!, take off plinths and leave backs on and ensure air can get out at the top, in extreme circumstances fit small low powered tubular heater inside on a thermostat. 

 

Yes to  this.

 

This is why Grandma kept her wardrobe 2" away from the wall.

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I should caveat that removing the backs works for 'everyday access' cupboards with shirts etc hanging on rail and drawers below.

 

For 'grandma cupboards' with a tog rating if 9,000 from all the might be useful one day duvets shoved in right to the back...don't just remove the backs!

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