ash_scotland88

Garden path lights - rethink

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Just put sleeving over the original conductors to change ‘function’ if required 

 

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11 hours ago, ash_scotland88 said:

Cheers, that solves the inner core colour issue as can only get them one way (to my knowledge)....

Now to decide what lights 🤦

Don’t forget to identify Earth, Neutral and Live(s) with G/Y, blue and brown sleeving.

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14 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Don’t forget to identify Earth, Neutral and Live(s) with G/Y, blue and brown sleeving.

That reminds me trying to explain to someone how electricity can't see colour and the colour scheme is a human standard....but how does it know neutral is blue?

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11 hours ago, ash_scotland88 said:

That reminds me trying to explain to someone how electricity can't see colour and the colour scheme is a human standard....but how does it know neutral is blue?

Because it’s not black any longer silly!! 😜 

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+1 to what others have said about waterproofing and gel/resin filling the boxes.  Air expands and contracts with temperature changes and can suck water in past seals. 

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20 hours ago, TonyT said:

The EU said so

 

So can we go back to red and black now?

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As long as you sleeve the ends?

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40 minutes ago, Temp said:

As long as you sleeve the ends?

 

That's handy, I've got miles of red sleeving!

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14 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

That's handy, I've got miles of red sleeving!

You can store it in the new shed…………..

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2 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

You can store it in the new shed…………..

 

What do you mean new shed, it's an old shed as evidenced by the black and red T&E! 😉

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Lights finally ordered - yay!

 

Still need to order the joints though.
Need 4x 3way and 1x2way.
Doesn't need to go underground, can be attached on the back of walls.

 

So looking at:
1x
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/PRUBX02.html
4x
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/PRUBX03.html
 

And some conversion kit as I presume the lights will come on 1.5mm HO7 cable, but struggling to find the suitable size.

Edited by ash_scotland88
more info

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Forget about the pratley boxes 

 

Use plastic Ip box, fit with CW glands and IP washers, bottom entry on cables into joint box and it will look smarter and be cheaper.

Edited by TonyT

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You want a box with enough space to bland all the cables in the bottom.

you get a 20mm hole saw and drill the holes to suit yourself.

 

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If you get a plain, IP6x rated box and drill the gland holes yourself, you can arrange the 2 banjos so they "meet" and you can use x1 6mm brass bolt. Take an earth fly lead off that with a ring crimp. 

 

Just use Wagos inside to connect everything together. 

 

Sort of like this, bits grabbed at random in the shed:

 

16320558530332138493371.thumb.jpg.9859b9243ac623561fbeb7adf732ad9f.jpg

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Having a brain fart/doubt regarding earthing back to CU.

 

Been able to get into the light above the front door. As in the picture. SWA will obviously terminated via appropriate methods in a junction box and connect to twin and earth back to here.

 

Should this then go back to CU to provide earth protection? Should be the question cause you know, old house.

 

https://postimg.cc/Wq7wYD8Y

 

 

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Looking in the CU it's twin and earth to there, although in conduit it looks like it's all single core.

The light switch that controls that light is earth to the metal back box.

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The point where you plan to provide power from should have a line/live, neutral and earth.

you don’t need to go back to the consumer unit, unless of course it’s more convenient for cabling reasons

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4 hours ago, TonyT said:

The point where you plan to provide power from should have a line/live, neutral and earth.

you don’t need to go back to the consumer unit, unless of course it’s more convenient for cabling reasons

 

It is beneficial to enable a dedicated 'outdoor' circuit to be added though so as not to cause nuisance trips of the RCD protecting whatever 'indoor' circuit you might otherwise tap in to.

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I'm "tapping into" the light above the front door, which is/will be rewire at the CU to its own RCBO. This circuit only (if the old labling is to be believed) was cupboard under stairs and outside lighting, where the only outside lighting is above the front door.

As a side not if memory serves me from the old CU (rewirable fuses) the outside backdoor came from the "kitchen and back hallway" circuit- yes the old CU had about 3 pendant per circuit.

 

 

Had a bad weekend of DIY where everything took longer and I dropped the light above the front door which damaged it (ceramic maybe), and upon inspection cracked slicing my finger. So confidence/ability has taken a knock.

 

But thinking about it since my last post, if twin and earth is earthed at CU and there's an earth where the pendant is then by all purposes it should be earthed all way to CU...

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Which you can confirm with a multimeter

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24 minutes ago, ash_scotland88 said:

But thinking about it since my last post, if twin and earth is earthed at CU and there's an earth where the pendant is then by all purposes it should be earthed all way to CU...

 

If you plug an extension lead in somewhere and take it out to the light you can measure the resistance between the earth at the light and the earth in the extension socket and it should ideally be less than a couple of ohms. (Passing this test will also require your socket circuit earth to be present of course so two tests for the price of one!)

Edited by MJNewton
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