Jump to content

Do sockets need switches?


Adsibob

Recommended Posts

I'm considering installing these as our main sockets:

image.png.9f019499e3fc516c70feb0d89e01aa66.png

They are made by varilight, so I'm hoping the quality is okay. But is the absence of on/off switches an issue, whether from a Buildings Regs or safety point of view? The only place where I think it would be safer to have a switch might be where we plug in kitchen appliances like blender, toaster, food processor... just in case there's an accident/fire one can switch it off. Although in those circumstances presumably one could just pull the plug out from the socket almost as quickly. Maybe @ProDave or one of the other electrically gifted members can weigh in on this...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would not fit them personally. the only place I used unswitched sockets is behind appliances and tv's etc where you don't want to go to the bother of installing the appliance to ten find out you forgot to turn it on but can no longer reach.

 

Do they not do a switched version?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, ProDave said:

I would not fit them personally. the only place I used unswitched sockets is behind appliances and tv's etc where you don't want to go to the bother of installing the appliance to ten find out you forgot to turn it on but can no longer reach.

 

Do they not do a switched version?

Thanks for the quick reply. They do do a switched version, but we like the aesthetic simplicity of the switchless one. Is it a safety thing then? I note that in continental Europe one hardly ever sees a switch on a socket. Same in the US I think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont know of any part of the regs specifically requiring a switch (other than fixed appliances like hobs etc which must have a means of isolation). Pulling the plug serves as an isolation for portable appliances but a faulty appliance can create a pretty decent arc on disconnect and its not pleasant when its behind the plug you are pulling

Link to comment
Share on other sites

By contrast, @Adsibob, I have specified switches with neons for almost every switch. My eyesight isn't what it was and I can now tell at a glance - from yards away - which sockets are switched live if there is a supply. Yes, sometimes the switch is intrusive - and a neon switch more so - and on those sockets we fit switchless plates. None of our 5 Amp sockest have a switch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Switched all the way unless it's a socket under a worktop switched by a 20A DP switch above.

 

Little sparks can grow into bfo arcs over time presuming your unplugging under load. Unless I guess you can g'tee the "appliance" will only ever be unplugged when it's switched off.

 

As above go switched and DP, safer/easier in the event of a fault.

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, ToughButterCup said:

By contrast, @Adsibob, I have specified switches with neons for almost every switch. My eyesight isn't what it was and I can now tell at a glance - from yards away - which sockets are switched live if there is a supply. Yes, sometimes the switch is intrusive - and a neon switch more so - and on those sockets we fit switchless plates. None of our 5 Amp sockest have a switch.


I’ve fitted neons behind the plates on a number of LAP switch plates as they have a recess at the top that is slightly thinner and you get a red glow rather than a bright red light. More aesthetically pleasing than a red blob. You can get them now with the neon in the switch itself so only shows when on. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, PeterW said:


I’ve fitted neons behind the plates on a number of LAP switch plates as they have a recess at the top that is slightly thinner and you get a red glow rather than a bright red light. More aesthetically pleasing than a red blob. You can get them now with the neon in the switch itself so only shows when on. 

 

Where.... Thats brilliant! .... what are they called?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, ToughButterCup said:
10 hours ago, PeterW said:


I’ve fitted neons behind the plates on a number of LAP switch plates as they have a recess at the top that is slightly thinner and you get a red glow rather than a bright red light. More aesthetically pleasing than a red blob. You can get them now with the neon in the switch itself so only shows when on. 

 

Where.... Thats brilliant! .... what are they called?

Possibly OCD rather than LAP maybe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, ToughButterCup said:

 

Where.... Thats brilliant! .... what are they called?


The neons ..?? Errr ... well they are Schneider ones not LAP (just checked my S’fix orders) and this is the switch I used and there is also an LED / neon which I’m looking for 

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/schneider-electric-lisse-20ax-1-gang-dp-control-switch-white-with-led/5135j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 27/04/2021 at 16:46, markc said:

I dont know of any part of the regs specifically requiring a switch (other than fixed appliances like hobs etc which must have a means of isolation). Pulling the plug serves as an isolation for portable appliances but a faulty appliance can create a pretty decent arc on disconnect and its not pleasant when its behind the plug you are pulling

If you 've got this problem then you have the wrong fuse box (sorry consumer unit)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...