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Shower wall back to brick?


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Removed the bath out of my parents bathroom today and my gut feeling is to remove everything back to brick. It's going to be where the shower goes, so need to get it right. Is there are reason to leave what's there and patch it on the bottom? Obviously still need to remove the rest of the tiles and some of the old plaster may well come with them anyway....................

 

There's also pipework in the wall that I need to address.......................

 

I'll probably need to build it back out (to clear the ledger plate that the joists sit on) but I'll need to look at the drain position to know by how much. So would I batten then use some sort of waterproof board? 

 

Cheers

 

Vijay

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Decided to get everything back to brick and glad I did. I'm now thinking of throwing a bonding coat on, so I have a nice even surface to work off.

 

How should I build out the wall, just studs and then a waterproof board or can I dot and dab the board on? Not sure how much I need to bring it out, but will be less than 50mm in total including tiles I believe.

 

Cheers

 

Vijay

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So why tiles ..? Why not just tidy up with a bonding coat then use Multipanel straight onto the walls..? Can use structural foam to hold it (DryFix works) or if you need to pack the walls true then use 25mm roofing battens and plumb them with packers - adding 25mm Jablite between the battens will stop a lot of excess condensation on the walls too. 

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Multipanel is still an option - the problem is getting to see the stuff as everywhere has been closed or they don't stock it. It's my Mum's bathroom and her choice, but she really has to see what ever is going on the walls.

 

Would multipanel straight onto the walls still need tanking?

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Before I carry on, can I check opinions on the joists. They are 7x2 sitting on a 3x2 ledger plate, which seems to sit on metal supports. My concern is how the joists are cut to sit on the plate.

 

What do you think?

 

 

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22 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

Check out the abacus bathroom videos, by skill builder on you tube, looks like a nice product that can either be dot and dabbed or fixed to battens. 

 

Watched some of his videos before. Do you mean for wall panels?  I'm probably going to fit an Abacus shower former which he speaks highly of

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  • 3 weeks later...

After a brief health scare with my Mum ending up in hospital, back trying to get this bathroom moving again. Finally she's making some decisions and she wants tiles on the walls and not wall panels (I found a showroom with a fair selection, but she commented that they looked plasticy which put her off).

 

So if I was tiling, I assume some sort of waterproof board if I had to bring the wall out, like Hardie backer board or waterproof plasterboard?

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19 minutes ago, Vijay said:

After a brief health scare with my Mum ending up in hospital, back trying to get this bathroom moving again. Finally she's making some decisions and she wants tiles on the walls and not wall panels (I found a showroom with a fair selection, but she commented that they looked plasticy which put her off).

 

So if I was tiling, I assume some sort of waterproof board if I had to bring the wall out, like Hardie backer board or waterproof plasterboard?

 

No such thing I don't think as waterproof plasterboard. There is moisture resistant, the green stuff. I think @Nickfromwales uses just that rather than cement board and "hasn't lost a patient yet". 

 

I used moisture resistant pb for some of the bathroom then 12.5mm Knauf Aquapanel in the wet room corner so where its abutting the mrpb it's the same level. 

 

The wet room corner. All this got tanked after:

 

2018-06-26_09-38-10

 

2018-08-10_09-16-52

 

(Floor was tanked along with the walls before the tiles went down).

 

You can see the mrpb on the right then where it changes to Aquapanel above the window:

 

20180618_200422

 

Cutting the cement boards...can be tricky. They're heavy and have sharp/hairy edges. I used an old circular saw. Also carbide grit edged jigsaw blades. Starrett cutters for drilling holes for pipes etc.

 

https://www.toolstation.com/tungsten-carbide-grit-jigsaw-blades/p67688?

 

The cement boards aren't as bendy/forgiving as mrpb. Easy to get a hairline crack in them (no big deal I don't think as they've a reinforcing fibre mesh throughout). You need special screws for them too.

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We used Hardi Backer board. Bombproof once up but bit hard to cut. Blunts tools. TCT blades recommended.

 

The 12mm version will take screws for things like towel rails, hooks or small shelves so not too essential to find the studs.

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@Onoff was the aquapanel not waterproof on it's own or did you tank it too for belt and braces approach?

 

Where you used moisture resistant PB, was that so you didn't need to skim if you used normal PB or were you not tiling the walls? What was the reason for the mrpb no where near the shower?

 

You actually made me realise another question about the niche boxes/shelves, am I right in saying you made your own one up from your pics? Flipping expensive to buy for what they are so I was thinking I could make my own one up the size I wanted.

 

@temp good point about fixings, I didn't even think of that yet cos of where they will need grab bars, where I obviously need very good fixings ;)

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18 minutes ago, Vijay said:

@Onoff was the aquapanel not waterproof on it's own or did you tank it too for belt and braces approach?

 

Where you used moisture resistant PB, was that so you didn't need to skim if you used normal PB or were you not tiling the walls? What was the reason for the mrpb no where near the shower?

 

You actually made me realise another question about the niche boxes/shelves, am I right in saying you made your own one up from your pics? Flipping expensive to buy for what they are so I was thinking I could make my own one up the size I wanted.

 

@temp good point about fixings, I didn't even think of that yet cos of where they will need grab bars, where I obviously need very good fixings ;)

 

I've been doing ours. Have had success with using cement covered EPS panels - e.g. https://www.wickes.co.uk/STS-Professional-Tile-Backer-Board-1200-x-600-x-10mm/p/101131?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp101131&sc_intid=101131&gclid=CjwKCAjwhYOFBhBkEiwASF3KGcxP17L0HyFemITNRpCmxbXYJw2LAyzE5dHU4DwsrW68PoWuimnRjhoCb6UQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Currently at £9 from wickes per 1200x600 board which is reasonable  I think?

 

Found a pre-made niche on Ebay, but would have been happy cutting the above board (cuts easily with a utility knife) then gluing it with Sikaflex EBT (which is fast becoming my new best friend, particularly when it goes down to £5 a tube) and then putting waterproofing/tanking tape  - e.g. this https://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/Orbry-Waterproofing-Tape?gclid=CjwKCAjwhYOFBhBkEiwASF3KGR6ONX4n2EYwVVpVoHCRbAM4OT3jhc5VB6AXYvdbeS4mgflMjk52hhoC5VcQAvD_BwE over the gaps and joints. Then using a good waterproof tile adhesive before tiling. 

 

Most of mine is onto a stud wall, and had fixed PB to the wall before putting the cement facing boards on top as I just wasn't quite convinced about rigidity of the board. 

 

With the tiles, grout, tile adhesive, tanking tape, waterproof board I reckon it should do a pretty good job keeping the water back.

 

Completely DIY so I have no doubt there's a better way but have tried this approach now in two bathrooms and seems to work well

 

Good luck with yours!

 

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@Vijay, yep belt and braces. Gets pretty steamy in there do I went mrpb on the walls and ceiling.

 

I did make my own niches up. Took some figuring out. Just studwork lined with Aquapanel then tanked and tiled.

 

2018-05-07_09-23-16

 

Around the part sunken bath it's mrpb and marine ply, again tanked.

 

 

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