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Minimum height of hot zone or heat gap above an induction hob


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We installed it so that gap between bottom of pelmet and worktop is 58cm. The DIY kitchen standard pelmet is about an inch high, so cupboard must be 605mm above worktop. 
We are really happy with the height. could also work a bit lower. I think our hob, which is AEG requires a minimum of 560mm. Just pick a couple of hobs and see what their requirements are.

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14 hours ago, Adsibob said:

We installed it so that gap between bottom of pelmet and worktop is 58cm. The DIY kitchen standard pelmet is about an inch high, so cupboard must be 605mm above worktop. 
We are really happy with the height. could also work a bit lower. I think our hob, which is AEG requires a minimum of 560mm. Just pick a couple of hobs and see what their requirements are.

Thanks - so I guess your wall units are above the tall units by 9cm? We are using DIY and I think pelmet to worktop is 49cm on our plan. 
 

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15 hours ago, Jackofhearts said:

Thanks - so I guess your wall units are above the tall units by 9cm? We are using DIY and I think pelmet to worktop is 49cm on our plan. 
 

Yeah something like that, but because the wall units are only about 33cm deep and the tall units are full depth, they are on different planes, so you hardly notice. In our case, you never notice because they are two additional measures which conceal this:

1) although all the carcasses are from diY kitchens, the base units and tall units are finished in a different finish (oak) to the wall units (painted finish);

2) additionally, that top area is recessed behind a decorative bit of ceiling - difficult to explain but maybe this picture can explain:

IMG_4900.thumb.jpeg.85c2d295c2e6d39f9d4b0d62dda48b84.jpeg

That ceiling slopes down from the apex of the roof to about 10cm in front of the tall units, above which the ceiling is flat. I really like this sort of our kitchen at it enables us to fit lots of almost concealed downlights as well as creating architectural ambience.

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8 hours ago, Adsibob said:

Yeah something like that, but because the wall units are only about 33cm deep and the tall units are full depth, they are on different planes, so you hardly notice. In our case, you never notice because they are two additional measures which conceal this:

1) although all the carcasses are from diY kitchens, the base units and tall units are finished in a different finish (oak) to the wall units (painted finish);

2) additionally, that top area is recessed behind a decorative bit of ceiling - difficult to explain but maybe this picture can explain:

IMG_4900.thumb.jpeg.85c2d295c2e6d39f9d4b0d62dda48b84.jpeg

That ceiling slopes down from the apex of the roof to about 10cm in front of the tall units, above which the ceiling is flat. I really like this sort of our kitchen at it enables us to fit lots of almost concealed downlights as well as creating architectural ambience.

 

That kitchen is stunning! That's exactly how we want our wall units to be, I love the clean lines. We wanted a scabdi look but I think it's out of budget - where did you get the bottom unit fronts from?

 

This is our plan - by default, using 2120 tall units and standard 720mm wall units our gap would only be 490mm which is probably not enough (though I've found a hood that allows 500mm).

I think our options are as follows

1) Go up a size to 2300mm tall units and keep the 720 wall units - this would give a gap of 670

2) Stick with 2120mm tall units and use 575mm wall units - this would give a gap of 635mm (downside is we couldn't have bifold wall units)

3) Stick with the original plan but get a hob that includes in-built indiction (the width of unit kind of ruins the symmetry)

 

Unless anyone else has any clever ideas?

 

 

 

Screenshot 2023-11-24 at 08.36.32.png

Screenshot 2023-11-23 at 12.01.53.png

Edited by Jackofhearts
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