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Do block paved driveways ever last?


SimonD

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I went for close fitting blocks with sharpish edges and very small gaps for weeds or debris to collect. The blocks with larger edge chamfers or a cobbled look tend to leave wider joints where moss and debris can take hold.

Marshalls 'Savanna' is an example of a close fitting concrete block, but after laying take care to make sure the very narrow joints are filled with kiln dried sand with a soft brush on a dry day, I found it took a couple of weeks to top up the joints as it slowly settled down:-

https://www.marshalls.co.uk/gardens-and-driveways/product/drivesett-savanna-block-paving

 

You can also get more expensive weed resistant block paving sand:-

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Dansand-No-Grow-Block-Paving-Sand---20kg/p/119555

Edited by MAB
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On 15/04/2021 at 12:48, daiking said:

Unfortunately, a long period of neglect means I have rampant Horsetail which will quite happily come through the sub base to my block paved drive (but prefers growing up the house footings).

 

Stamp on new growth, spray it, repeat for 20 years.

 

 

I got it in a few seasons. 

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7 minutes ago, MAB said:

I went for close fitting blocks with very small gaps for weeds or debris to collect. The blocks with large edge chamfers or cobbled look leave areas where moss and debris take hold.

Marshalls 'Savanna' is an example of a close fitting concrete block, but after laying take care to make sure the narrow joints are filled with kiln dried sand with a soft brush on a dry day, I found it took a couple of weeks to top up the joints as it slowly settled down:-

https://www.marshalls.co.uk/gardens-and-driveways/product/drivesett-savanna-block-paving

You can also get more expensive weed resistant block paving sand:-

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Dansand-No-Grow-Block-Paving-Sand---20kg/p/119555

Same here went with small champher blocks. Not tumbled either I'm not paying extra for my blocks to be chipped up. 

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+1 for pavingexpert site.

 

Bounded edges.

Geotextile. 

150 mm sub base in two layers compacted "to refusal" with something big enough to settle it:

https://www.speedyservices.com/18_0104-h-wacker-neuson-dpu2540h-400mm-reversible-plate-compactor-diesel-160kg

Make sure the sub-base is level and create the falls in the sub base. Your sand layer (~40 mm loose raked/30 mm after one pass) will eventually compact "to refusal" with cars etc going over it. If it varies in thickness then your blocks will vary in height.

Rake sand level and give it one pass with the compactor. Lay blocks. Run over these with the biggest thing that won't smash the blocks. One of these over a sheet of 6 mm OSB if you can't get a rubber mat:

https://www.speedyservices.com/18_0112-h-altrad-belle-pclx320-streetworks-320mm-plate-compactor-petrol-65kg

Then kiln dried sand in the gaps to lock the blocks in place with friction. Don't power wash it all out again. (that will let the blocks move)

That won't then move.

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On 15/04/2021 at 12:48, daiking said:

Unfortunately, a long period of neglect means I have rampant Horsetail which will quite happily come through the sub base to my block paved drive (but prefers growing up the house footings).

 

Stamp on new growth, spray it, repeat for 20 years.

 

 

 

We had a load of the stuff growing out the back. Last year I sprayed it with this stuff - it all went brown and died off and no sign of it so far ?

IMG_4251-1 - Copy.JPG

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My block paving patio was laid on ground granite chips (about 3 or4 mm) on top of well compacted road scalping which my builder says is less likely to settle out than sand but sand was swept into the gaps.

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4 hours ago, SimonD said:

 

We had a load of the stuff growing out the back. Last year I sprayed it with this stuff - it all went brown and died off and no sign of it so far ?

IMG_4251-1 - Copy.JPG

Thanks, I’ll give it a whirl.

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12 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I seem to recall @Jeremy Harris was an advocate of copper sulphate solution, certainly for keeping moss down. I actually got a load but didn't use as I was worried about the effect on "aquatic" life. Newts, slow worms, lizards etc here.

 

 

I use it for the moss on my roof. Take the packet of the copper sulphate and a watering can onto the roof and using a garden hose fill the watering can up and walk along my ridge pouring the mix onto the tiles and let it run down the roof.

You just need to make sure it doesn't come into contact with any metal like guttering or roof windows etc. It keeps my roof pretty clean and lasts 2 years easy for a few mins work.

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9 hours ago, joe90 said:


Yes but have you read the reviews, rubbish ?‍♂️.

 

Yes I read the reviews so used ordinary kiln sand in the end at half the price, just posted it for reference....but some people rate the weed resistant stuff.

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I've tried the wire brush, but that's only a very temporary fix and a very laborious job.  Have got a hand held burner but that is worse than useless as it doesn't get hot enough.  I'm wondering if @markocosics remedy of acetic acid will do the job as I'm reluctant to use a systemic because I have planting at one side of the drive? 

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On 17/04/2021 at 18:05, Declan52 said:

It keeps my roof pretty clean and lasts 2 years easy for a few mins work.

But means feeling up to walking on the ridge with a watering can, a packet of Copper sulphate and dragging a hose. 😧 Why have I got a funny feeling in my gonads?

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1 hour ago, MikeSharp01 said:

But means feeling up to walking on the ridge with a watering can, a packet of Copper sulphate and dragging a hose. 😧 Why have I got a funny feeling in my gonads?

You do get a lot of funny looks from people driving by. I have always had a good head for heights so it's easy for me.

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I manage a building that has a copper roof, some of the water is diverted to a water butt, and the staff brush the monoblock drive and wet it with this water.  No algae.

 

just get some off cuts of copper pipe and throw them in the water butt, and do the same.

 

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