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A couple of tanking videos. Same kit I used:

 

 

 

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8 minutes ago, Onoff said:

A couple of tanking videos. Same kit I used:

 

 

 

Did you watch them ? 😂👍🙃

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13 minutes ago, pocster said:

Did you watch them ? 😂👍🙃

 

May your roof lights leak forever and your walk on glazing never sell! 😁

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38 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

May your roof lights leak forever and your walk on glazing never sell! 😁

Don’t need to be a clairvoyant- all (expletive deleted)ing true !

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Just been looking through some old topics and come across this one discussing shower trays and screens. Has anyone bought any of these and can anyone recommend the quality of them, this is the one the old man is looking at. 

https://cart.ebay.co.uk

 Regards. James

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link isn't to the item

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Just a quick question on the tiles my dad’s bought.

he has bought these as he likes the way they looked laid brick style, but on the back of the box it states no more than 33%. Will it matter if he goes 50% when laying them?

 Regards. James

 

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6D0217DD-3EF6-497B-8FC6-43E1CD89355D.png

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The likelihood is, is that the tiles have a known manufacturing defect which produces a slight cup / bow in the length of the tile. Quickest way to check is to put the tiles against a pane of glass and see what the average tolerances are, across a few samples from a few different boxes should give a good indication.

The 33% bond is so you don't get a big dip / jump ( we call them "kickers" ) where the centre of the tile, which would have the most pronounced part of the 'bow', meets and crosses the corners of the tiles above and below, thus giving the most pronunciation of the 'defects'. As far as anything else is concerned you will be fine, as long as you're happy with the first m2 or two after laying and examining the results. 

FYI, if you use tile 'self-leveling' clips to wall tile, you can probably pull some of the defect out. Believe it or not, tiles will bend a little. You'd need a lot of clips though. You'll need to use cementitious tile adhesive with a full bed and butter technique to achieve best results. Ready made acrylic adhesive will stay 'wet' for way too long to hold the tiles accordingly eg to control the defect.

In honesty, it would be best to lay these out and see how they look, as the defect may be far less of an issue than I assume, and possibly no issue at all.   

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Thanks for that very informative reply @Nickfromwales, He was worried if He laid them brick bond they’d all fall off. He's only laying 10 boxes and none are on the floor, just doing the shower area and side of bath with a niche. He’s been looking at the levelling systems so will probably be getting them, I’ll tell him to test them for kick and see how bad it might be and think he’s looking at the mapei keraflex for the adhesive.

Ill get him to take some pics if he ever finishes it.

 Regards. James

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Dads just been setting out tiles for bath area and he's bought himself a rubi 61 snap tile cutter but noticed on the description is say not for porcelain tiles. 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/rubi-manual-tile-cutter-610mm/8115K?tc=IT7&ds_kid=92700055262507126&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2IqAqr3l8AIVBYbVCh34rgycEAQYAiABEgJbIvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Now the tiles he's bought say porcelain, does this mean he will have to send it back and find an alternative cutter? Or will it be ok?

Regards  James

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Has anyone got any advice on this? Is there a reason why it’s says not suitable for porcelain. Does he have to take it back and buy a different one and if so any recommendations.

Regards. James

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Posted (edited)

Porcelin tiles are much harder than ceramics and more difficult to cut. grinder and diamond blade are the best bet. If tiles are small and fairly thin then the cutter you have should be ok

Edited by markc

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Just an update on the bathroom, shower is complete just need a bit of work round door and floor. But need help on light/ vent above shower, surprising how much more steam in room after shower.

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There is a vent in loft fitted and working but no hole in ceiling. There are three spotlights in the room and would like to have integrated light and vent connected to vent in loft, can anyone offer any advice on what might work and look  the best.

AAEC3887-CD71-4EFA-98D8-7F9D46907677.jpeg

This is a pic of loft, there is a dimmer switch that controls the three light and a switch to operate the fan.

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295002AA-C982-446A-8E8F-4273CE01B79A.jpeg

Edited by James94

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@ProDave

been looking at these, was hoping to get hold of the light/vent only and save a bit of money but if this is only option then it will have to be. Not sure how well it will match the other lights? Will this dim like other bulbs? Not sure if the way the switches are set up at minute is best as I think it gives the individual showering the option not to turn fan on as separate switch, am I thinking correctly here?

regards. James 

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The fan and the light are completely separate and can be wired however you like them.

 

The lamp I believe is an LED MR16 type. If the supplied lamp and transformer is not dimmable you can swap them for ones that are.

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Wire the dimmer through the switch so using the lights forces the fan?

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Thanks for the advice, well give it a go when we’ve got parts and time.

Regards. James

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Looks good, but I would be worried about the glass end panel - on mine I have a cross brace that comes from the other brace you have.

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