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Shower inset shelves


DeeJunFan

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40 minutes ago, DeeJunFan said:

So it wont really matter how far away from the shower they are.  If they get water in them at all they will need to be fully water proofed.

 

Guy in the bathroom place was trying to advise us to go with Mosaics in the insets but i guess that would be the worst thing to do given the extra grout area. 

 

So tank, and large tile into bed of CT1 to fill all the gaps.

 

 

 

I'm using these large format mosaics (SWMBO chose) so the grouting it limited:

 

20170112_215959

 

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Lay the bottom tile first, then the top, fit the back then the sides. 

 

As @Nickfromwales says if you can keep the water out even better, I tend to use a bead of sealant such as CT1 behind the bed joints so no water can get in. 

 

The usual problem area is the trim on the edge as water can pool on the grout if you're not careful. 

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Makes no difference whatsoever because you'll be tanking it ;)

 

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

I'm using these large format mosaics (SWMBO chose) so the grouting it limited:

 

Again not much difference as the point of failure will be between the tiles at the corners, and more so against the trims, where they meet the tiles, where it's a pita to get a decent amount of grout in. 

Getting a foundation of CT1 in behind these points is where the money shot is ;). E.g. Tiles bedded into wet CT1, then grouted or colour matched silicone in the grout lines ( as is in that pic I posted with the 'corner' shower ). 

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23 minutes ago, bassanclan said:

What about using expoxy grout?

It is a lot more or a pain than normal grout to fit, but is bloody good and will last and be waterproof.

I have used mapei Kerapoxy before and been very happy

Never used an epoxy grout TBH. Proof again that many heads are better than one :)

My concerns are where the trims meet tile and grout as there is little or no purchase against the metal or plastic imo. The issue is amplified when using timber frame as it expands and contracts a lot compared to brick / blockwork installs. 

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Not sure what Nick has used, but I used some high modulus, neutral cure, silicone to stick some difficult tiles to plywood a few years ago, and found it was easy to do, worked well and lasted for several years (until we replaced the bathroom).  I even "grouted" these troublesome tiles with the same stuff, which also worked OK.  This was in a wet area, too, the ply panel that had been added to the back of our shower when someone fitted an electric shower, so was constantly getting wet.  The only difference between that panel and the tiled wall alongside was that the grout on the tiled wall would grow black mould and the sealant used on the bit at the back would go slightly pink.  A quick spray with diluted bleach used to fix it, but that shower did give me a long-term hatred for tiles.  When I replaced the whole bathroom a few years ago and fitted a mixer shower, I panelled all the walls with Multipanel, best decision I've ever made, no grout, no mould and a quick wipe and it comes up like new.  The new house bathrooms are all finished with Multipanel, for the same reason.

Edited by JSHarris
typo
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1 hour ago, JSHarris said:

Not sure what Nick has used, but I used some high modulus, neutral cure, silicone to stick some difficult tiles to plywood a few years ago, and found it was easy to do, worked well and lasted for several years

Exactly what i use on all boxing in and bath panelling etc. Sticks like shoot to a blanket and never lost a patient. 

Unlike what i have found when tile adhesive ( especially the ready mixed crap in a tub :( ) has been used and I've been called in to regrout it, and worse, redo it all where the grout has failed and water has pulled through and rotted all the wood from the inside out. Looks great until the day it all just turns to mulch and falls apart. By then the floor has usually gone too. 

Belt n braces folks ;). ?

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Looking at that data sheet I can't see any reason it wouldn't be OK.  Although it's labelled as a glazing sealant, that really just means it bonds well to glass and ceramics.  I found (by accident) that Dow Corning 799 ("Glaze & Go"), stocked at my local Screwfix, sticks to damned near anything, and is nice and thick, so it doesn't slump and works a bit like a grab adhesive.  I used it to bond PVC trims in place and it worked really well.  795 looks to be pretty similar to 799, as far as I can tell.  One nice thing with these neutral cure sealants is that they are easy to clean up (before they've cured) with IPA.  When I was bonding all the 6mm PVC trims around our windows I ended up not bothering to get exactly the right amounts of sealant behind each, because it was easy to wipe a rag soaked in IPA over afterwards and clean off the excess.

Edited by JSHarris
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  • 6 months later...
On 12/02/2017 at 00:26, Declan52 said:

I have two in my main shower but mine are block. You have to clean the water out after a shower as it pools under the shampoo bottles.

 

 

Screenshot_20170212-002457.png

Digging this one up again, wife just mentioned she wants a built in shelf in shower. How did you do this @Declan52 on a block wall? Is it double skin?

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11 hours ago, Onoff said:

Did "we" agree to slope (5deg?) the bottom of pocket shelves to assist with water run off?

 

Sounds like a good idea. I had actually considered extending my ufh pipes up the wall of the shower enclosure and also underneath any wall pocket shelves. Dries up any pooling water on the shelves and gives a nice warm ambiance as you step into the shower.

 

Now the wife wants a remote to turn on the shower so she doesn't get wet by having to turn on the taps to get the water running warm before she starts to shower. I did say that's only her arm that's going to get wet, and very likely that's going to get anyway when she does step in eventually.:S

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I'm hoping with the wall drain the "trap" won't dry out too quick. It's a little way from the UFH pipe It'll be used every day so that should help. IF it fits (the wall drain) then I might put a strip of insulation in front.

 

There was talk I remember of putting a second trap in somewhere.

 

As for UFH in the wall pretty sure I voiced that idea over on eBuild. Knowing what I do now (about everything) I probably would have done it. Could get interesting with pockets. I've also to consider I'm limited for depth in terms of wall insulation in the wet room corner so think I'd prefer insulation and retain the heat from the floor in that corner rather than lose through the wall.

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3 hours ago, oranjeboom said:

 

Sounds like a good idea. I had actually considered extending my ufh pipes up the wall of the shower enclosure and also underneath any wall pocket shelves. Dries up any pooling water on the shelves and gives a nice warm ambiance as you step into the shower.

Then you'll need accessible automatic air vents at each high point :/

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2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Then you'll need accessible automatic air vents at each high point :/

Just finished laying my UFH pipes and have not gone up the wall route. I'd be asking for trouble...I'd only have someone drilling something nasty in the wall.

 

5 hours ago, jack said:

Our taps are set at the entrance to the shower, away from where the spray lands, so you can turn it on without getting your arm wet.

 

I may as well put them next to her bed so she can turn them on before she gets up in the morning. Far cheaper than some remote device. And I'd be able to roll over and turn them off after 2mins as well!!xD

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12 minutes ago, oranjeboom said:

I may as well put them next to her bed so she can turn them on before she gets up in the morning. Far cheaper than some remote device. And I'd be able to roll over and turn them off after 2mins as well!!xD

 

You need the new Mira shower with the app..!! Can have hours of fun with that ..!

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