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DPC on Kore foundation


AliG

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Hi,

 

We are waiting to hear back from MBC, but thought I would enquire to see if anyone has this foundation build up.

 

We are using the MBC/Kore passive foundation. But we want the slab level to be at ground level which makes access much easier.

 

The drawings we have at the moment do not show a DPC and there is no standard drawing from Kore for this.

 

Does anyone have a ground level EPS slab with timber frame and if so what detail was used for the DPC?

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Thanks @jack for some reason it wasn't shown on the foundation drawings and it might all be sorted once we speak to them.

 

Are your upstands above ground level?

 

We have basically this build, but our footpath level is level with the slab.

 

image.thumb.png.0f7457203bd91a7cd88ad2bef485ac92.png

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Yes, the upstands are above ground level.

 

Here's the equivalent detail for ours - you can see the radon barrier, although its path isn't that clear (sorry for the resolution - this is all we were given):

 

image.png.bad81b5e1b031f114f08640046b740c2.png

 

Pretty-well matches what you've posted above, although our DPM/radon barrier as installed continues down the outside edge of the upstand most of the way to the bottom edge, from memory.

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1 hour ago, AliG said:

We have basically this build, but our footpath level is level with the slab.

Ali,

The Radon/DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) shown in blue on your diagram is, I believe, the DPC (Damp Proof Course) you referred to in your original post

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4 minutes ago, BotusBuild said:

The Radon/DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) shown in blue on your diagram is, I believe, the DPC (Damp Proof Course) you referred to in your original post

 

I think that diagram is just one he's found elsewhere, rather than being related to his plans.

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Yes, I just found this standard detail from the Kore website, it wasn't shown on our plans.

 

The house will differ in being at ground level, not 150mm above and we aren't sure if that causes an issue as normally a DPC would wrap over a brick in the external skin raising it off the ground, but we don't have a brick course.

 

 

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I brought my paving level with the slab at the front door and rear sliders so have no steps.

 

Ensure you have decent flashing at each threshold - ideally a lead detail that you can lap over the DPM that the door frame can sit on.

 

You've not said what exterior finish you are planning - if its render or similar cladding, you'll have an air gap at the bottom (protected with inset mesh) that you'll need to ensure is clear. 

 

Render also needs a clear 'splash zone' of 100-150mm below and in front to minimize staining and algae growth. We achieved this by stopping the paving 100mm from the render and having a french drain around the perimeter that stops 100m below the render base so plenty of room for airflow. You will also need to protect any exposed EPS up-stand from rodent attack (from where they could gain access to your internal insulated frame layer) so an aluminium or heavy duty PVC detail or something like Ubiflex will work.

 

Obviously if you're doing a brick or stone exterior, this will be sitting on its own foundation so no further protection needed.

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How are you going to prevent water bouncing up onto your external finish. 

The 150mm upstanding from ground level to external finishes has been around for years, and it works. 

In your part of the world I really think this is something to reconsider. 

 

You can have the front entry entry level but why the whole house. 

Definitely something I would re evaluate, you will get problems with snow blowing up and piling against your external finish.  

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Having a flush threshold all round can cause damp issues.  They are not so bad with doors / windows as they should not be affected but adjacent to walls will be no good.

 

The sole plates should be 150mm min, pref 225mm above DPC / ground level.

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16 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

The 150mm upstanding from ground level to external finishes has been around for years, and it works. 

 

We are going to have an aluminium band around the bottom of the house with the render/renderboard above it So no render at ground level.

 

Our house is the same, the slab is at ground level, but we have a stone base course then the render above it.

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39 minutes ago, AliG said:

 

We are going to have an aluminium band around the bottom of the house with the render/renderboard above it So no render at ground level.

 

Our house is the same, the slab is at ground level, but we have a stone base course then the render above it.

 

Similar solution to what we done, a stainless steel band around the kore upstand, same stainless as used in roof.

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  • 1 month later...

After some discussion it was decided that we would set the base so that floor level is 150mm above the ground as people were unsure how to protect it from damp otherwise.

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  • 1 month later...

Hello @AliG, @Alexphd1 any chance you could give more details of the banding solutions you used. Searching for either Aluminium band or Stainless Steel band didn’t yield many promising results. In the USA coil stock looks like a similar banding solution. The other question was how did you affix it to the EPS. Any help would be much appreciated. 

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Not started working yet but the aluminium band isn’t an off the shelf item.

 

It would be just sheet aluminium that was cut and powder coated. We did the same for the eaves on our current house. It did take a while to find someone to do it.

 

 

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3 hours ago, AliG said:

Not started working yet but the aluminium band isn’t an off the shelf item.

 

It would be just sheet aluminium that was cut and powder coated. We did the same for the eaves on our current house. It did take a while to find someone to do it.

 

 

 

If you contact a seamless guttering supplier, they use a roll of powder coated aluminium and then run it through a former on site to create the guttering profile.

 

If you use one for your guttering (and soffit / fascia) then they can easily do the plinth base also.

 

@HerbJ did just this.

 

Also consider Ubiflex (or equivalent) - lead flashing substitute. Apply it in a band around your base EPS and then put the bottom batten for the render system over the top.

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2 hours ago, Bitpipe said:

 

If you contact a seamless guttering supplier, they use a roll of powder coated aluminium and then run it through a former on site to create the guttering profile.

 

If you use one for your guttering (and soffit / fascia) then they can easily do the plinth base also.

 

@HerbJ did just this.

 

Also consider Ubiflex (or equivalent) - lead flashing substitute. Apply it in a band around your base EPS and then put the bottom batten for the render system over the top.

 

Thank you. The Ubiflex looks promising. On the Burton Roofing website they also have Alcan Aluminium Flashing 8m roll. 

 

https://www.burtonroofing.co.uk/alcan-aluminium-flashing-8m-roll.html

 

I wasn't sure if the roofing material like Roofinox Terned or GreenCoat PLX Pro BT were overkill? This website seems to have many of these options.

 

https://www.roofing-tools.com/metals-for-roofing-cladding-c102x3122254

 

 

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On 05/04/2021 at 18:34, AliG said:

After some discussion it was decided that we would set the base so that floor level is 150mm above the ground as people were unsure how to protect it from damp otherwise.

 

have a vertical dpc/tray all the way round. ffl and outside can be the same then. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 03/06/2021 at 12:38, Nick Laslett said:

 

Thank you. The Ubiflex looks promising. On the Burton Roofing website they also have Alcan Aluminium Flashing 8m roll. 

 

https://www.burtonroofing.co.uk/alcan-aluminium-flashing-8m-roll.html

 

I wasn't sure if the roofing material like Roofinox Terned or GreenCoat PLX Pro BT were overkill? This website seems to have many of these options.

 

https://www.roofing-tools.com/metals-for-roofing-cladding-c102x3122254

 

 

Coil can be slit to width and desired length 

many ‘standard widths’ are 600mm so no, or minimal waste incurred

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