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TF wall / floor detail.


Jason L

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Just now, Thorfun said:

sadly we need EPS300, specified by Tanners.

 

Ok, get out your pen and paper and figure out the best way to lay the 1200x2400 blocks to give you the necessary footprint, plus a bit of excess 'toe' under the slab to sit your vertical panels on. If you have a chainsaw that has a bar long enough to cut through the slabs then use that if required.

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6 minutes ago, Bitpipe said:

 

Ok, get out your pen and paper and figure out the best way to lay the 1200x2400 blocks to give you the necessary footprint, plus a bit of excess 'toe' under the slab to sit your vertical panels on. If you have a chainsaw that has a bar long enough to cut through the slabs then use that if required.

you know what? I'm going to leave that to the groundworker! they've quoted for it so, assuming I choose to go with these guys, they can do all that work and take on the responsibility for not messing up the calculations.

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Just now, Thorfun said:

you know what? I'm going to leave that to the groundworker! they've quoted for it so, assuming I choose to go with these guys, they can do all that work and take on the responsibility for not messing up the calculations.

 

Ok but my advice is to watch their work closely as it's not typical and it's your insulated envelope, not theirs. Don't let them bodge it.

 

I purchased, supplied and laid my own EPS as the GW was not familiar with it.

 

Check with your TF company where the EPS needs to finish, for MBC it needed to extend past the walls by 80mm to match their Kore slab system.

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1 minute ago, Bitpipe said:

 

Ok but my advice is to watch their work closely as it's not typical and it's your insulated envelope, not theirs. Don't let them bodge it.

 

I purchased, supplied and laid my own EPS as the GW was not familiar with it.

 

Check with your TF company where the EPS needs to finish, for MBC it needed to extend past the walls by 80mm to match their Kore slab system.

will do on all that. here's the detailing by Tanners showing the insulation. I'll make sure it's built to these specifications.

 

968608834_Screenshot2021-02-10at17_47_56.thumb.png.f7682c7163917ad379e6f16c8c4ad542.png

 

 

 

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Whats your plan for that corner section? If the crew are doing traditional shuttering then can you just lay the 300 flat and butt the 100 vertically on the edge?

 

Also are 200mm sheets cheaper / more expensive than two 100mm sheets?

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9 minutes ago, Bitpipe said:

Whats your plan for that corner section? If the crew are doing traditional shuttering then can you just lay the 300 flat and butt the 100 vertically on the edge?

 

Also are 200mm sheets cheaper / more expensive than two 100mm sheets?

Tanners designed a Kore system but (see other threads on this subject) I've had issues with them being able to deliver to an individual since Brexit so I've kind of dropped them for now. as such I believe the groundworks company would do as you suggest but as I'm still at the decision stage for choosing a groundworks company those details can be had once that decision has been made.

 

thanks for the tip about 200mm sheets being cheaper. appreciated.

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19 hours ago, Thorfun said:

Tanners designed a Kore system but (see other threads on this subject) I've had issues with them being able to deliver to an individual since Brexit so I've kind of dropped them for now. as such I believe the groundworks company would do as you suggest but as I'm still at the decision stage for choosing a groundworks company those details can be had once that decision has been made.

 

thanks for the tip about 200mm sheets being cheaper. appreciated.

 

Well, they may or may not be, but worth checking. If you PM me I'll send you the details of the buyer I used to source my EPS - always good to have in your back pocket as unlikely it will be a bread and butter item for a ground worker - also ensures you get the spec and not just any old EPS.

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On 02/02/2021 at 11:37, Jason L said:

So i have redone the detail with a concrete slab, and it all looks much more sensible now, does away with the awkward air brick detail and  it should be quicker and easier to build thanks for the suggestion.

 

Any ideas for the facing of the exposed section of block / thermoblock, other than brick slips, its dark grey render at the moment.

revised wall - floor junction detail.JPG

 

Hi, thanks @Jason Lfor posting this, very useful and really got me thinking. We are building an extension with a very similar foundation/pad build-up. The Marmox Thermoblock was new to me, but given my limited experience that's not a total surprise. I've read the sales blurb and a bit on this forum about its use, but I was interested why you went for that product and how is it necessary for you project?

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33 minutes ago, GraemeHM said:

 

Hi, thanks @Jason Lfor posting this, very useful and really got me thinking. We are building an extension with a very similar foundation/pad build-up. The Marmox Thermoblock was new to me, but given my limited experience that's not a total surprise. I've read the sales blurb and a bit on this forum about its use, but I was interested why you went for that product and how is it necessary for you project?

Hi,  i have that there to reduce the cold bridging at that point, and picked the Marmox over another one that i  looked at because it has a rebated joint rather than a butt joint, which i think helps lock them together better and form a better joint.

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