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Fitting uPVC Windows


Onoff

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I'm convinced it's an attention span thing.  I can focus on a single boring task for hours if I have to but my missus just can't do it.

 

Interesting your wife noticed the improvement in the doors @JSHarris.  That seems to suggest that she was actually aware she was doing a poor job!

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9 hours ago, jack said:

I'm convinced it's an attention span thing.  I can focus on a single boring task for hours if I have to but my missus just can't do it.

 

Well I hope she realises just how lucky she is! ;)

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I mean just look! Whatever possessed her to paint this?

 

20170210_175220

 

 

20170210_175236

 

Tbh the 27mm insulated plasterboard I have left over from lining the main bathroom window reveal would be too thick.

 

 

Edited by Onoff
Predictive text
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  • 3 months later...

Replaced another rotten timber window over the weekend with a generic 28mm DG panel that I had made to fit the gap.  (Non opener; internally beaded, cw sill and end caps £75). Put it this way, it's better than what was there!

 

In a 9" block wall. I used some "compriband" around all 4 sides for a start. Then wedges, 10mm window fixings and foam. Followed up with a bit of shuttering mitre bonded to the protection tape and rendered the sides and under the sill. (Need a bit of "asbestolux" on that flue cage still).

 

20170515_052030

 

At the top...should I try and form some sort of angled lip?

 

20170515_052055

 

Cheers

Edited by Onoff
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1 hour ago, ProDave said:

At the top you can get a proper angle piece to form a drip bead.

 

You mean like this?

 

http://www.diy.com/departments/upvc-bell-cast-bead-l2500mm/278762_BQ.prd?ecamp=Seapla&ppc_type=shopping&ds_kids=92700018863835671&gclid=CPWsrvfK8dMCFei87Qod8kYB0g&gclsrc=aw.ds.ds&dclid=CKmvxvfK8dMCFYsw0wodTQ4AOA

 

Guess I'd have to wire brush the paint above the window then glue/screw this bead to the existing "good" render. That would then hold a new fillet of render.

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