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Cost of Electricity


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3 minutes ago, MikeGrahamT21 said:

 

Blimey, that makes it even more of a shocker!

 

We have had some mixed days this week but each day I've been looking at the solar and we have had between 4.5-6kWh each day from this. What I don't know is how much of it has gone to the immersion via the Solic and how much we used ourselves.

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3 minutes ago, MikeGrahamT21 said:

The specs on that unit state that in heat mode it can only use a maximum of 2.65kW, so something else is using energy here to get to the 3+kW figure...

 

Is there anything else connected to the fuse you switched off?

Hmmmm this is going to be a trial and error. Now I know this I'll wait til it goes up again and see what else I can turn off. Wife is in the garage so let me check she didn't have something on up there.

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43 minutes ago, canalsiderenovation said:

Sat in house nothing extra plugged in since I  said it was fairly static at 800-900w and then this...

That jump you are seeing is about the same as a 2 kW heater.

What things do you have in the house that can draw that much energy i.e. kettle, cooker, oven, vacuum cleaner, fan heater (friend of mine left one on in his loft for months).

It is also about the same as your HP draws.

 

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I've no doubt you will already have this (or I hope you do anyway): https://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/202011/20201130092421734/DB68-08408A-03_IM_EHS_R-32_MONO_OUTDOOR_EU_EN_200822.pdf

 

Installation manual for your unit. I noticed on page 41, there is talk of an energy saving mode, which is off by default?

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Just a quick note, I think your CurrentCost uses a clamp on sensor, these can misread from an inductive load and they do not compensate for different voltages.

Usually this is not a problem, but don't trust the number totally, it is usually within 5%, but depending on the power factor, can be 20 percent out.

Though I never found much difference over a year, but then I don't have any large inductive loads.

 

Does it have an RJ11 socket in the back?

Edited by SteamyTea
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1 minute ago, SteamyTea said:

Just a quick note, I think your CurrentCost uses a clamp on sensor, these can misread from an inductive load and they do not compensate for different voltages.

Usually this is not a problem, but don't trust the number totally, it is usually within 5%, but depending on the power factor, can be 20 percent out.

Though I never found much difference over a year, but then I don't have any large inductive loads.

 

I remember using a clamp sensor on mine, and it didn't know what was usage and what was export from the Solar PV! Counted both directions

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1 minute ago, MikeGrahamT21 said:

I remember using a clamp sensor on mine, and it didn't know what was usage and what was export from the Solar PV! Counted both directions

They will.  You can get around this by using two sensors, one from the PV and one into the house, then subtract one channel from the other.

How I found out a large PV installation in the community centre was wired into one of the phases that had hardly ever load on it. 

To do that does require a logger on it, but these are easy enough to make.

Tomorrow I shall  see if I can dig out one of my old CCs and play about with it, if I get time.

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Just now, SteamyTea said:

That jump you are seeing is about the same as a 2 kW heater.

What things do you have in the house that can draw that much energy i.e. kettle, cooker, oven, vacuum cleaner, fan heater (friend of mine left one on in his loft for months).

It is also about the same as your HP draws.

 

 

Ovens/coffee machine are off are on standby, where the clock is on but nothing else. Then there is just the fridge and freezer and router and sewage treatment plant but they are all things that are normally on. No lights on. The only thing we don't normally have on is the slow cooker for tea. We turn everything else off at the plugs like TVs, microwave etc. We currently have nothing charging. There is nothing  else I can think of!

 

I just caught a spike.

 

IMG_20210212_160535.thumb.jpg.86c30b1cbbae1e17bf262b3d1edf4fb4.jpg

 

Turned off heat pump.

 

IMG_20210212_160539.thumb.jpg.2f4440eed575a3756033d3ef08c41eb2.jpg

 

 

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11 minutes ago, MikeGrahamT21 said:

I've no doubt you will already have this (or I hope you do anyway): https://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/202011/20201130092421734/DB68-08408A-03_IM_EHS_R-32_MONO_OUTDOOR_EU_EN_200822.pdf

 

Installation manual for your unit. I noticed on page 41, there is talk of an energy saving mode, which is off by default?

 

I'll have to look at the manual for the controller MWR-WW10N.

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If it's only a few seconds I wouldn't worry about it. When electric motors (such as those in ASHP compressors) start up or change speed they need a brief spike of additional power to do so, meaning you should see the spikes corresponding with the unit starting to provide heat or changing power levels. The energy consumed by these spikes is trivial - you're billed on (power consumption) x (time), so the energy bill you're getting will be driven by the steady state ~500W (12 kWh/day) rather than the odd spike of a few seconds.

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3 hours ago, MikeGrahamT21 said:

3.2kw - Would this relate to your ASHP? Assuming they can modulate much like a gas boiler?

 

What model is it? Had a look through the post and couldn't see it mentioned, apologies if i've missed it

Yes they modulate fully. Anywhere from around 1kw to the maximum. In my experience it'll pull up to 4kw (possibly a little more) when hitting the higher temps for water heating and close to this for UFH. Just judging by the figures on the smart meter gizzmo and deducting our normal run rate of 4-500w.

Edited by Ultima357
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On 12/02/2021 at 14:30, canalsiderenovation said:

 

I didn't no. I will get one. How do I use it if we have LVT flooring?

 

I'd be using it to measure the air temperature near where the room thermostats are mounted to confirm they are reading correctly.

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4 hours ago, Temp said:

 

I'd be using it to measure the air temperature near where the room thermostats are mounted to confirm they are reading correctly.

 

I've got one on order. I have a feeling there are some issues with one or the bathrooms. The thermostat is in the hall just outside the door and the bathroom seems to be very cool even though we have this temperature higher than the other stats for this reason.

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14 hours ago, canalsiderenovation said:

 

I've got one on order. I have a feeling there are some issues with one or the bathrooms. The thermostat is in the hall just outside the door and the bathroom seems to be very cool even though we have this temperature higher than the other stats for this reason.

Don't know what stats you have but my bathroom ones have the head outside and the sensor inside. The stat has to be set to monitor the remote sensor as they default to internal sensor. All three of mine were not properly set up by the installer. 

Edited by Ultima357
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