AliG Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Hi, I thought that my daughter's bedroom wasn't heating up very quickly so I had a look at the manifold. The pump isn't coming on when the Heatmiser calls for heat. As it worked before and I cannot see any issue with the wiring, could it be that the pump seized up through not being used during summer and then blew when it came on as it got colder? If I was brave enough to change the pump myself would it just be a matter of turning off the water on each side of the pump. There is an isolator on every pipe. And swapping the pump over? I might just get someone in as it would be quite a quick job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 You can check on a lot of the older pumps if it’s running by removing the cover in the middle of the motor. Got a photo ..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 It’s a Wilo Yonos Para. No LED comes on and it’s not running. So I am wondering if it could have seized and that caused the electronics to blow. Or they could have just went. Can’t think of any other reason why it wouldn’t be working. I need half an hour to get a pic if it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Check it is getting power first. Those pumps have a plug in power cord, check it has not come loose. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 1 hour ago, AliG said: It’s a Wilo Yonos Para. No LED comes on and it’s not running. So I am wondering if it could have seized and that caused the electronics to blow. Or they could have just went. Can’t think of any other reason why it wouldn’t be working. I need half an hour to get a pic if it helps. It might be the fuse in the manifold wiring centre. Hold fire before telling someone the fault, as the correct order of events is to get the installer back to tell YOU what’s wrong Idle thumbs etc..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 Pictures as requested - The wiring seems fine, I was wondering if you could pull the cord out, I guess I could try pulling it out and putting it back in, but it is tightly in there at the moment. First picture is the offending unit, second is another one where the LED ring lights is lighting up when it is running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said: Hold fire before telling someone the fault, as the correct order of events is to get the installer back to tell YOU what’s wrong I have had the installer back to fix a few things, but it has been in over two years now, so feel I should probably be paying someone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Just now, AliG said: I have had the installer back to fix a few things, but it has been in over two years now, so feel I should probably be paying someone. ?. Yes, I know that. Get the installer back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 (edited) And pay for the callout Edited November 4, 2020 by Nickfromwales Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, AliG said: I need half an hour to get a pic if it helps. Is that the time it takes to walk from one wing to the other? Edited November 4, 2020 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Hooooooold up. What does that temp gauge read by the U/S pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Just now, Onoff said: Is that the time it takes to walk from one wing to the other? No stupid. It’s 45 mins for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 Just now, Onoff said: Is that the time it takes from one wing to the other? Was in the middle of a TV show - priorities 3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: And pay for the callout That's fair. But if I can give him an idea of what the problem likely is then hopefully I don't end up paying for multiple visits etc. They are almost an hour away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Just now, AliG said: Was in the middle of a TV show - priorities That's fair. But if I can give him an idea of what the problem likely is then hopefully I don't end up paying for multiple visits etc. They are almost an hour away. I’m on site in Salisbury and live in Swansea!! I DREAM of being an hour away 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 2 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Hooooooold up. What does that temp gauge read by the U/S pump @AliG ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: What does that temp gauge read by the U/S pump It is saying 52C. I think it is set at somewhere in the 40s, but the boiler has been pumping hot water to the manifold all day as the room hasn't been heating up. I assume that even though the pump isn't running at the manifold, because it has been calling for heat almost constantly the whole manifold has heated up. Edited November 4, 2020 by AliG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Is that pump definitely getting power ..?? Can you whip the lid off the grey box and check it with a meter..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Just now, PeterW said: Is that pump definitely getting power ..?? Can you whip the lid off the grey box and check it with a meter..? Have a second look That setup looks to me to have a high temp probe in the head of that blending set. If the flow temp is too high the pump shuts off. Same with the Vogel & Noot setups. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 It’s a safety feature to stop the floor getting too hot. Bet the pump is A OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 Just now, PeterW said: Is that pump definitely getting power ..?? Can you whip the lid off the grey box and check it with a meter..? I took it off and checked the wiring which was all tight. The other option is that for some reason, although the Heatmiser clicks and the valve light comes on, it doesn't actually send power to the pump. I took the cover off it and checked the wiring was tight there also. My guess is the pump is the most likely item to break, especially as improbably didn't run for a good 6 months until recently. Also when the system was installed it was wired up so the thermostat in one room was connected to the actuator for another room. That had the pump running almost constantly for a couple of months, but I don't think that would do it much harm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 The black thing that goes south into the chrome set ( directly above the pump ) with the black wire is what interfering to. That’s a 230v thermostatic ‘interrupter’ put in to protect the occupants against failure of the TMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said: t’s a safety feature to stop the floor getting too hot. Bet the pump is A OK. Thanks, that could be it. I was trying to find mention of it in the instruction manual. The probe is wired into the grey box along with the power, but I couldn't find anything to explain what they do. Presumably if it is switched off and cools down then it would come back on. The boiler is maybe turned up higher than it was last winter, it was just serviced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Unplug the power cord from the pump and check with a couple of probes that it really is getting power. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 2 minutes ago, AliG said: The other option is that for some reason, although the Heatmiser clicks and the valve light comes on, it doesn't actually send power to the pump. I took the cover off it and checked the wiring was tight there also. My guess is the pump is the most likely item to break, especially as improbably didn't run for a good 6 months until recently. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 Just now, Nickfromwales said: The black thing that goes south into the chrome set ( directly above the pump ) with the black wire is what interfering to. That’s a 230v thermostatic ‘interrupter’ put in to protect the occupants against failure of the TMV. Can I unscrew the probe without worrying about it causing a leak? I assume it just goes into a metal pocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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