Cladding details

[Russell griffiths]

Has anybody got any details or pics of cladding, I’m particularly looking for the starter track or the lowest part, how to include insect mesh and maintain an airflow behind the cladding. 

 

Would like any pics of how you have finished around windows. 

 

Cheers all. 

[Nick1c]

We have the bottom groove cut off at an angle to form a drip. The insect mesh is u-shaped, the rear held up between the batten & the building, the front between the batten f the cladding. 

[Russell griffiths]

@Nick1c what did you use as mesh, I have rolls of 100mm wide stainless mesh and it feels too flimsy. 

I would like a mesh I can fold and it holds its shape. 

[PeterW]

Fold it over into an inverted U shape and it should be fine ..? Where do counterbattens feature in all of this so the cavity can drain ..?

[jamieled]

What kind of cladding - horizontal, vertical, board on board or side by side?

[Russell griffiths]

Horizontal Cladding

vertical batten

treated cedar

air gap top and bottom.

Stainless fixings.  

[PeterW]

Fixed to EPS..??

[Russell griffiths]

3 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Fixed to EPS..??

Yes. 

What are you thinking. 

Edited November 1, 2020 by Russell griffiths

[trialuser]

I would also be interested to see any details / pics, particularly detailing how you can have a ventillated (not just vented) cavity and firestopping, Still struggling with this detail.

[jamieled]

We were vertical board on board, so slightly different. But in essence, the same detail as noted above - mesh trapped behind the vertical battens and stapled to sheathing, form a U then bring it round onto the front of the horizontal batten. Because we had board on board there were odd gaps to fill. We used 200mm mesh, I got it off ebay from some seller called something like mesh direct.

 

@trialuser, the only way I know about (and what we ended up doing) was using an intumescent barrier for the horizontal firestop.

[dnb]

I will be going for the U shape for the insect/rodent mesh too at the bottom of the cladding.  I am drawing the details to put in a building control submission now (mainly to show position of fire breaks etc).

 

I will be doing something like this for the soffit and cladding ventilation:

https://www.flyscreen.com/media/pdf/Mesh for Soffit Ventilation and Cladding - V22.pdf

 

I too have found that only an intumescent barrier will work for the horizontal fire stop if ventilation is normally required.

[Mr Punter]

I have used the Hardie starter strip.  It give the bottom board a kick provides ventilation and insect / rodent barrier.  It comes in different sizes according to your batten size.

 

https://www.squaredealupvcshop.co.uk/product/hardieplank-starter-strip-with-ventilation/

 

 

[trialuser]

19 hours ago, jamieled said:

We were vertical board on board, so slightly different. But in essence, the same detail as noted above - mesh trapped behind the vertical battens and stapled to sheathing, form a U then bring it round onto the front of the horizontal batten. Because we had board on board there were odd gaps to fill. We used 200mm mesh, I got it off ebay from some seller called something like mesh direct.

 

@trialuser, the only way I know about (and what we ended up doing) was using an intumescent barrier for the horizontal firestop.

@jamieled and @dnb, thanks very much re the intumescent fire stop. Can either of you suggest a product or supplier. I have done some googling but everything I have found is going to be very expensive, perhaps that's just the way it is. I will be having tin cladding to the first floor and vertical cedar or siberian larch to the ground floor. cavity will be 25mm + 25mm ground floor. and 25mm +45mm first floor. the tin overlaps the wood slightly. Thanks

[jamieled]

I used Envirograph. There's limited choice and it was pretty expensive. If I'm being honest it's one thing I overlooked when planning and so not a cost I budgeted for but it's needed.

 

I can't remember the exact name or gap that it fills but they do a few different products depending on the application. I reduced the gap slightly by adding an extra horizontal wooden batten as it worked out cheaper doing that than buying an intumescent product to fill a wider gap.

[trialuser]

Thanks jamiled