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Two-part epoxy garage floor paint, or....


NSS

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Okay, to expand, our floor is a rougher than i'd like it to be tamped finish. Ideally I'd like something that will not just seal it but help to fill some of the depressions, but strong enough to take vehicles moving in and out without cracking/lifting. Have been looking at 'high-build' epoxy paint as it's a lot cheaper than some of the alternatives, but wonder about the durability.

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11 minutes ago, Dreadnaught said:

 

At the risk of hijacking @NSS's thread, what dilution factor do you recommend? (My concrete raft is being poured in a month or so.)

I have no professional knowledge so couldn’t recommend anything. However, I just used a fairly weak solution of about 4:1... I chose this as 3:1 is the recommendation for bare plaster walls, so figured a little less would be about right. 

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8 hours ago, PeterW said:

Can be used as a wearing course.

And if you put a vehicle in there, wear it will. 
IMO you won’t beat a good 2-part paint, but you cannot go “cheap”. 
Chuck a cheapo diamond grinding disk onto a 4” grinder and knock the tips off anything projecting ( significantly ) and away to go. 
Serious hardiness will be achieved when you apply a refresher coat later down the line and the layers build up. 

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I used a high-build epoxy paint product. Can recommend the guys at Promain - excellent advice.

 

If you're going to spend a lot on epoxy (and it's way more expensive than regular floor paint), you need to make sure you get the prep right. We had really bad spalling in places, so I rented a floor grinder. It was very expensive due to the amount of wear I put on the diamond pads, and that was without taking it all the way back to perfectly smooth. I doubt I'd take that approach if I were doing it again.

 

I really liked the idea of one of the epoxy self-levelling products to build up a thicker coat, but it was expensive, and I was worried about having to mix and lay it while keeping a wet edge (etc). Given how much the grinding cost, however, I think it might actually have been cheaper to go this way, and the result would almost certainly have been better. While the high build product I used did iron out the finer imperfections, it doesn't really do much for deeper marks. You can still clearly see tamp marks in places where I wasn't able to grind them completely off, for example.    

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I painted my garage floor with single pack paint.

 

It hadn't been painted since it was laid and luckily had no oil staining etc. I knocked off all the laitance with a cup brush on a grinder then vacuumed it with the shop vac...then vacuumed it again. A messy, dusty job but we'll worth the effort. 

 

I had a fair bit of various shades of grey floor paint, some bought, some full, some half and scored off sites, all different makes. All went into an old  5gal brewing barrel and got mixed with a stick. Applied with a cheap plastic broom. Done 10 years ago probably and all good.

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On 21/10/2020 at 23:41, PeterW said:

Plan to use this - same compressive strength as C25 concrete. Can be used as a wearing course. 
 

https://www.setcrete.co.uk/product/high-performance/

 

Probably got 16sqm to do at 8mm average so will need about 10 bags. 

Hi Pete, Can you let us know how you get on with this product. Is a wearing course mean suitable as a final floor covering, foot traffic only.

I might do a test and add some small stones to then grind back.

Also do you know of an additive to change the colour of the product, maybe a grout?

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31 minutes ago, JamesP said:

Can you let us know how you get on with this product. Is a wearing course mean suitable as a final floor covering, foot traffic only.


Has a 28 day strength of 25N/mm so is identical to C25 concrete at 5mm deep. I think it will take a car no issue as it will bond to the concrete sub base. 

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