Roof Trusses

[LSB]

How much weather can roof trusses withstand before they should be covered.

As we are doing a DIY self build and we have a huge roof we are worried about how long this will take.

We are having a metal roof so this can't be put on partially as it is sheets.

So, how long is too long.

[epsilonGreedy]

My truss supplier quoted an example of one uncovered roof that was assessed as OK by building control after 2 years of exposure.

 

I think 3 months is routine.

[PeterW]

Assume that a metal roof will still need to have a membrane ..? This will stop the worst of the weather and give you cover to continue work inside. Floors are more susceptible to long term exposure and they should be covered within 60 days.  

[LSB]

On 19/10/2020 at 21:02, PeterW said:

Assume that a metal roof will still need to have a membrane ..? This will stop the worst of the weather and give you cover to continue work inside. Floors are more susceptible to long term exposure and they should be covered within 60 days.  

Thanks, we have the roof company coming to visit 4th November, I will find out from them what is needed membrane wise, I hadn't really thought about it yet.

 

[Puff]

Have got the rafters up for 1/2 the building but no builder for a few months, so I'm going to cover with damp proof membrane until he's back and we can do the remainder of the roof. Had considered OSB/felt the bit that's done but he said easier to get the whole roof straight without it, so membrane it is. 

[LSB]

20 hours ago, Puff said:

Have got the rafters up for 1/2 the building but no builder for a few months, so I'm going to cover with damp proof membrane until he's back and we can do the remainder of the roof. Had considered OSB/felt the bit that's done but he said easier to get the whole roof straight without it, so membrane it is. 

thanks

everything is just planning at the moment, I'm really looking forward to getting going.

We have to take down the existing roof first and I'm really looking forward to doing that.

I expect the novelty will wear off long before we've finished though

 

[joe90]

11 minutes ago, LSB said:

I expect the novelty will wear off long before we've finished though

It tends to wane a bit ?, I’m with @PeterW, get the membrane on and your dry.(you’ll be grateful when It’s raining and want to work “inside”.)

Edited October 25, 2020 by joe90

[LSB]

2 minutes ago, joe90 said:

It tends to wane a bit ?, I’m with @PeterW, get the membrane on and your dry.(you’ll be grateful when It’s raining and want to work “inside”.)

I see where you are coming from.

We have to dig the floor down as it is currently 3 different levels with the 2 higher ones floating on the base one.

Then we will start from the base, we also have a load of internal walls to remove.

We were thinking for ease of the digger of removing the roof first, but are now thinking about seeing how much we can do before we need to do that.

The lowest bit at them moment is only 1.75 so not really workable.

The 'L' part is a separate roof so we are planning to leave that whole part for as long as we can as a workshop, that is also where the power & water from our house goes to.

That means we can delay getting a new service for a lot longer.

 

[Puff]

I'm a bit ahead of you then. I was extending so had to take the end gable off first and then part of the front wall was beyond saving, so I propped up the existing tin roof and took the wall down. This allowed me  dry access underneath so I could (carefully) get a digger inside to get the floor dug/levelled and new foundations. Kept the roof on in order to the floor/blockwork until high enough. Have removed 2/3 of old roof but there's still a bit over the garage, which is still being used as such. Plan is to get the other end "dry", move all the stuff over and then take the remainder down. 

[LSB]

4 hours ago, Puff said:

I'm a bit ahead of you then. I was extending so had to take the end gable off first and then part of the front wall was beyond saving, so I propped up the existing tin roof and took the wall down. This allowed me  dry access underneath so I could (carefully) get a digger inside to get the floor dug/levelled and new foundations. Kept the roof on in order to the floor/blockwork until high enough. Have removed 2/3 of old roof but there's still a bit over the garage, which is still being used as such. Plan is to get the other end "dry", move all the stuff over and then take the remainder down. 

are you having to replace your metal roof like for like,  Originally, we were supposed to keep the existing  roof, but now we have to replace due to the current condition.

 

[Puff]

54 minutes ago, LSB said:

are you having to replace your metal roof like for like,  Originally, we were supposed to keep the existing  roof, but now we have to replace due to the current condition.

 

Fortunately not! Last owners threw on a green box tin roof to stop the whole lot collapsing and I put in for reclaimed Welsh slate (like the converted barn next to it) and that was accepted. Bloody hate the thing, can't wait until its all gone. I've found a local farmer who'll buy the tin off me, so that's useful.

[Mr Punter]

The truss people sometimes offer treated timber as an option.

[Vijay]

I've asked about treatment and it seems to be insecticide rather than weatherproofing. I've wondered about DIY approach

 

 

[LSB]

3 hours ago, Puff said:

Fortunately not! Last owners threw on a green box tin roof to stop the whole lot collapsing and I put in for reclaimed Welsh slate (like the converted barn next to it) and that was accepted. Bloody hate the thing, can't wait until its all gone. I've found a local farmer who'll buy the tin off me, so that's useful.

we have to stick with metal, hoping to get zinc, but more likely steel due to costs