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GypWall metal studs


willbish

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Not that much to read on the forum regarding metal stud walling and the different configurations.

Ive got 26 running metres of partition walling to put up, most at 2.4m high

Having had a good gander at the 'White Book' Im drawn to a couple of options

 

Either I studs staggered with 1 sheet of soundbloc each side, 50mm acoustic roll. 102mm depth overall

Shown here, pic 1:

 

1876795445_Partition1.JPG.f35ac2001d6ecc9a0a49b4143d781957.JPG

 

 

 

 

Or C studs with double sheets of standard board, 50mm acoustic roll. 100mm deep. Closely pictured as number 2:

 

866433323_Partition2.thumb.JPG.eb11c7e00a6cef744397788259d15c57.JPG

 

 

 

I haven't yet done any cost comparison with timber yet, any good suppliers to approach? I'll give my local builders merchants a buzz tomorrow but I'm not confident they'll be at all competitive or even know what Im on about..

 

@Dreadnaught was going down this route, how far did you get?

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Always feel more rattley to me when built to equivilant timber sections. You can also stagger a timber stud with 4x2 sole and top plate 3x2 studs. Also the amount of patrices or ply metal stud work Seems to need and lack of flexibility to nog out puts me off. It does have it's advantages too just have to compare your key criteria

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Metal stud out performs timber 

Straighter

Wont shrink 

Acoustically out performs timber 

Three time quicker to install 

Can be built 9 mtre  high and remain plumb
I stud is much stronger than timber 

You can nog out 

But most just use flat plate 

 

Each year we do groups of between 150 -200 roomed student 
accommodation Nearly always TF 

due to time restraints The partitioning would be easy for Tge TF guys to do as they go along 

But due to sound fire 

We follow them through with the framing 


Wiring  and plumbing is also much easier with MF

Pretty much like 

Possi v Solid timber joists 

 

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4 minutes ago, willbish said:

Nice one thanks @nod

 

Do you notice any difference in rigidity with say staggered I studs at 300 centres compared to C studs not staggered at 600.

Neither are fixed top at bottom so I'm guessing no/not a lot of difference

 

Any stud set at 300 will be more rigid than 600 It’s quite rare to set mf studs at 3 or 400 Usually I stud that is load baring 
We often build 5 mtr high walls and the strength comes from double staggered boarding 

I set our at 600 and used a 15 mil SB single layer Very solid at only 2.6 high 

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I used the 150mm steel studs to partion my building  at front with staggered19mm plank then fireproof Pb -- solid as a rock once you get the PB attached to it and very sound proof -by the time you have the fire curtain hung in the middle 

 back of building was a 9"soild killer block wall to 8ft ,with butresses then same 150mm stud to go to the roof 

If it was not a car workshop --might have been tempted to do it all in steel studding but also was getting a bit high in the center 

bought the fancy tool to join them together --not impressed with that --would us wood nogins if doing it again

would def consider using it in a house  --when did you last see a straight bit of  CLS

 

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  • 2 months later...

I've been on a metal stud learning curve the last week. So far so good, only the single one inch laceration to my finger to mention. But it sure flies up quick once you get used to it

 

I chose a mixture of wall make up. Between bedrooms and corridors I've used 72mm track with 60mm I studs staggered. 

For cupboard, wardrobes and areas where sound transmission is not so critical I went for 52mm track with 50mm C studs. 9mm ply then PB

 

The British Gypsum white book is really useful for selecting the components, then when purchasing switched to Tradeline brand as significantly cheaper. 

 

Chatting with a plasterer today and he's saying I really should be using noggins, even though White book says not necessary. I mentioned that Im using 15mm soundbloc board and he said even more reason to nog, anyone know why this might be?

 

So that got me thinking about chucking some in there just to be sure. But with the staggered studs this is not going to be possible. 

 

On 18/10/2020 at 20:13, nod said:

You can nog out 

But most just use flat plate 

 

Is the flat plate really going to make much difference? I cant see how thin plate (0.3mm thick i think) is going to make any difference. All my boards are vertical, just under 2.4m ceilings, perhaps that makes a difference.

 

 

 

 

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@willbish, beginner question. In your (splendid) photos, all the walls seem to run at 90º to your joists above. What what if a wall ran in-line with the joists but there wasn't a joist directly above, just a void?

 

In your photos, is it only the second photo that has staggered studs? Are those 300 centres? These seems to be some sort of spacer at the bottom or am I just seeing things?

 

Really great to read about your experience. Thinking of using metal studs in my build.

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If the stud lands inside a joist 

We normally Use a piece of shallow track (Floor Track)

Cut 50 mil in at either end the flattened 

Turn it upside down Set them at 600 and they will also carry your ceiling 

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That would be a neat and quick solution @nod has just proposed. In my amateur way I would have cut timber noggins in between the ceiling joists.

 

28 minutes ago, Dreadnaught said:

is it only the second photo that has staggered studs? Are those 300 centres? These seems to be some sort of spacer at the bottom or am I just seeing things?

Yes, yes and yes. Spacer clip SC1

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1 hour ago, willbish said:

I've been on a metal stud learning curve the last week. So far so good, only the single one inch laceration to my finger to mention. But it sure flies up quick once you get used to it

 

I chose a mixture of wall make up. Between bedrooms and corridors I've used 72mm track with 60mm I studs staggered. 

For cupboard, wardrobes and areas where sound transmission is not so critical I went for 52mm track with 50mm C studs. 9mm ply then PB

 

The British Gypsum white book is really useful for selecting the components, then when purchasing switched to Tradeline brand as significantly cheaper. 

 

Chatting with a plasterer today and he's saying I really should be using noggins, even though White book says not necessary. I mentioned that Im using 15mm soundbloc board and he said even more reason to nog, anyone know why this might be?

 

So that got me thinking about chucking some in there just to be sure. But with the staggered studs this is not going to be possible. 

 

 

Is the flat plate really going to make much difference? I cant see how thin plate (0.3mm thick i think) is going to make any difference. All my boards are vertical, just under 2.4m ceilings, perhaps that makes a difference.

 

 

 

 

Thanks to all for contributing to this post, every day is a school day, much appreciated by me!  Nod and many others are making great practical points so thanks.

 

A bit off topic. The flat plate I think comes in handy when your boards go over the standard 2.4 m as the flat plate acts a bit like a noggin (dwang) and supports the horizontal plaster board joint so you don't get a crack in the finish.

 

Again turning back to Nod. Similar cold formed sections can be used to create load bearing walls too and here the noggings etc often start to play a structural role. I don't know if anyone has posted on BH about a fully cold steel formed structure ( external frame + internal racking / load bearing walls) but I'll hazzard a guess that Nod and others have worked on them. Once walls become load bearing then the flat plate can start to form part of the fire protection.

 

The white book as you can see above and the "site book", see internet, provide some great info and the real practical tips you will get from the likes of Nod etc.

 

 

Edited by Gus Potter
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The people that do the metal on commercial projects can do shed loads in a day.  We had a guy on site was not the brightest and not suited for what we were doing but his boss regularly paid him £500 a day on price for doing metal frame ceilings and walls elsewhere.

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6 hours ago, Mr Punter said:

The people that do the metal on commercial projects can do shed loads in a day.  We had a guy on site was not the brightest and not suited for what we were doing but his boss regularly paid him £500 a day on price for doing metal frame ceilings and walls elsewhere.

Yes quite common for a pair to do 300 m2 per day at £3.50m2

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  • 1 year later...

I didn’t want to start a new thread. I have a few questions before I start my metal framing, @nod, @Dreadnaught any help would be appreciated. 
 

1. My ceiling height is 2750mm, can I just add a piece of 2”x4” underneath the U-Track so that I can use 2700mm C-studs?
 

Or do I need to use 3000mm C-studs and cut them to length? Any other methods to bridge the 50mm height gap? The longer studs don’t cost much more, but it just seems like a lot of waste and extra work. 

 

2. For the MVHR 90mm ducts can I make two cuts and bend down the sides of the deep U-track on the ceiling to allow the ducts to more easily pass into the next room?

 

Or will this effect the U-track’s integrity? I could use the standard U-track on the ceiling, but I like the higher gauge that the deep track has. Do I just leave a gap in the U track and use two pieces? 

 

 

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I was wondering exactly the same regarding packing out when I stumbled across this thread… 

 

i’m also looking at running radial MVHR ducting within the wall.

 

However I was planning on using Flat channel ducting which is about 50mm deep so should fit in the 70mm void with no issues. Then having a flat to round adapter in the loft above and under the floor below to switch back to round ducting. 
 

Maybe something to consider although I’m not too sure if it’s okay to use this type of ducting for radial 🙃

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