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Light switch bathroom


Russell griffiths

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Evening all. 

 

Can anybody point me at some current regs regarding a light switch for an en-suite bathroom. 

I can do a sketch if you don’t understand my rambling. 

 

I would like to put a switch on the bathroom wall just as you enter but I’m under the impression that  used to not be allowed and that’s why we have those horrible pull cords, however if I move the switch just 100mm away it would then be outside the room which seams just ridiculous that that would be ok. 

 

Anybody understand and what I’m getting at. Anybody know the regs. 

 

@ProDave  @Onoff

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2 hours ago, Onoff said:

Just use a Quinetic, job done. Use an MK or Varilight grid style Quinetic module if you don't like the big ones.

 

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Quinetic/index.html

That's what I am using in most bathroom jobs these days. Really trick to have a hidden 2G switch behind / adjacent to the bath so you can flip between feature / low level accent lighting and ceiling spots without meeting the man upstairs. 

 

2 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

So are you saying as a quinetic one has no mains power supply I can basically stick it anywhere @Onoff

Yup. They are IP67 switches that I mostly use. Shit hot and super reliable too. Just put them in my man cave so I could turn off the lights from a second switch by my back door ( Quinetic too ).

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9 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

So are you saying as a quinetic one has no mains power supply I can basically stick it anywhere @Onoff

 

You literally can stick it anywhere. Take out of packet, pair with the receiver, place between butt cheeks and clench.....

 

Seriously they're brilliant. Got one next to the bath. Just stuck on the wall. Nothing behind, no drilling of tiles etc. Can lie back with a beer, turn the Bluetooth tunes on and chill. (Literally, as getting enough hot water to fill the bath is another saga). Comes with options of a double sided sticky pad or you can screw the back plate on. You can also get a little metal bracket to fit across an existing back box in the wall. Video doesn't do them justice tbh. (Only thing is they're a tad "clacky" noise wise maybe, especially in an echoing bathroom. Grid type switches are quieter. One switch pairs to a dimming receiver that controls the downlights. The other just to a plain 6A receiver that does the feature blue lights. When I put this in the finish range was limited otherwise I'd have gone with a chrome effect one they now do in IP67.

 

 

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I take it you need a receiver linked to the light circuit which listens for the switch radio signal?  It is radio and not wifi I am reading?  Is the wiring of the receiver a DIY job for the very inexperienced?  Does it need to go in the ceiling behind the light?

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31 minutes ago, tanneja said:

I take it you need a receiver linked to the light circuit which listens for the switch radio signal?  It is radio and not wifi I am reading?  Is the wiring of the receiver a DIY job for the very inexperienced?  Does it need to go in the ceiling behind the light?


Yes - watch the video, it’s about the size of a matchbox. 
 

The receiver can be paired with a lot of different switches - the dimmer ones are retractive so don’t “show” they are on, but that is useful in a powercut as all receivers fail safe as off. 
 

Terminals are quite small, easier to wire fly leads to them and then use Wagos into the ceiling space to replace a ceiling rose. 
 

Also worth remembering which downlight you put it behind too ....... ask me how I know ..!!! 

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1 hour ago, tanneja said:

I take it you need a receiver linked to the light circuit which listens for the switch radio signal?  It is radio and not wifi I am reading?  Is the wiring of the receiver a DIY job for the very inexperienced?  Does it need to go in the ceiling behind the light?

 

Neutral and live (permanent) in then neutral and live to the light.

 

You can get them with receivers built into the wall switch.

 

They are "radio" but you can get Wi-Fi equipped ones to control via a phone app.

 

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QURW03.html

 

Installation instructions under Technical at the link above.

 

The only thing that would make them better is built in spring clamp instead of screw terminals. 

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1 hour ago, ZacP said:

How much do things cost relatively to a traditional system? Obv a saving on installation time but how much quicker (and by extrapolation cheeper) is it and does that offset the higher unit price? X

 

Sh!t loads more expensive. £30 - 40 for a switch with built in receiver or a switch and seperate receiver just to do one light/bank of lights up to 6A. Offset that against no chasing or making good on existing/refurbs and cable saved with whatever method even if you have a service cavity to easily drop cables down.

 

They come into their own for some things in particular. Say a shed where you would like to put the lights on before you leave the house and walk down the garden. Ditto they do flood lights that just need mains in. Stick those on the side of the shed/garage and switch on by remote control! Say you want a switch in a flat roof extension where running cables would be a pita. Another switch on a tiled wall in a kitchen etc, etc. 

Edited by Onoff
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42 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Sh!t loads more expensive. £30 - 40 for a switch with built in receiver or a switch and seperate receiver just to do one light/bank of lights up to 6A. Offset that against no chasing or making good on existing/refurbs and cable saved with whatever method even if you have a service cavity to easily drop cables down.

 

They come into their own for some things in particular. Say a shed where you would like to put the lights on before you leave the house and walk down the garden. Ditto they do flood lights that just need mains in. Stick those on the side of the shed/garage and switch on by remote control! Say you want a switch in a flat roof extension where running cables would be a pita. Another switch on a tiled wall in a kitchen etc, etc. 

So not worth it then! Particularly if you're planning on doing all the low skill laborious tasks of chasing/laying cables etc yourselves?

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 23/09/2020 at 19:06, Onoff said:

Just use a Quinetic, job done. Use an MK or Varilight grid style Quinetic module if you don't like the big ones.

 

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Quinetic/index.html

Good Evening

 

I just moved in my new (but old!) house and switches are either ill placed or ugly or both.. I've never used a Quinetic before.

Does Varilight Grid allow to mix Quinetic modules with standard wired modules?

On the other hand, if only Quinetic modules are used in the Varilight Grid, is a back box still required to fit the Grid to the wall?

 

Thanks!

Edited by joe16stones
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15 minutes ago, joe16stones said:

Good Evening

 

I just moved in my new (but old!) house and switches are either ill placed or ugly or both.. I've never used a Quinetic before.

Does Varilight Grid allow to mix Quinetic modules with standard wired modules?

On the other hand, if only Quinetic modules are used in the Varilight Grid, is a back box still required to fit the Grid to the wall?

 

Thanks!


You need to use MK Grid for the modules to match. They also need a back box - 35mm is ideal. 

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27 minutes ago, joe16stones said:

Good Evening

 

I just moved in my new (but old!) house and switches are either ill placed or ugly or both.. I've never used a Quinetic before.

Does Varilight Grid allow to mix Quinetic modules with standard wired modules?

On the other hand, if only Quinetic modules are used in the Varilight Grid, is a back box still required to fit the Grid to the wall?

 

Thanks!

 

Look specifically at the Varilight PowerGrid system. The Varilight Quinetic switch modules fit that. 

 

https://www.quinetic.co.uk/products/grid-switch-varilight/

 

https://www.varilight.co.uk/ranges/powergrid-range.php#grid-modules

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