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9 minutes ago, PeterW said:

You can double face a cottage door - comes out a bit thicker but may be doable. 

 

You mean spin it back round, but add another layer on-? Im getting confused now.

 

All I'm understanding as how to do it, is following the way my www photo eg implies, similarly gav_p's "wrong way" 1st pic.

 

Is this the correct thinking, if I don't really want to add another layer to it? (I think it'll be way too heavy if I did this- my frame isn't super solid).

 

I guess you just push the ledges inwards a bit so they miss the frame plant-on jamb strips (yet to add).

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23 minutes ago, ash_scotland88 said:

What do Welsh building regs say about the way doors open at top of stairs?...

 

I wouldn't call them stairs, just 3 shallow steps. I don't see how its relevant, if the door can only open one way though Ash.

 

And surely if the steps are relevant, then with the door opening away from them, it's "safer" anyway. Anyone comment? it's certainly a worthwhile Q. thanks zH

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11 hours ago, dpmiller said:

why don't you search the Welsh B'regs and find out, yourself?

 

Bc it'll likely be so stupidly complicated I wouldn't make head nor tail of it. Besides it wouldn't take into account a builder leaving me in the lurch having a sloping ceiling (uniformly across, not like Onoff's ^ door) so a door cannot open inwards, unless 6" is taken off the top. This cannot be an option. Nor is having no door. So Im left with one possible option.. aren't I? unless I'm missing something- always a possibility I admit.

 

If your point was to check in order to establish which way round I have to put the door.. as I said it's n/a: I can only physically have it opening out.

 

 

Edited by zoothorn
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1 minute ago, joe90 said:

There is no wrong way, just make it open the way you want!, if the ledges are on the same side as the door stops just make them a little shorter like @Gav_P SIMPLES. Try not to complicate things.

 

Hi joe. Yup exactly my idea- thi dpm's thouragh approach is sensible, I think I'm ok to crack on. Yes so my ledges will be on door plant-on stops side, & set in a bit from edges.

 

Joe and also @Gav_P re. attatching ledges and braces to t&g boards: I notice on my existing doors, as in pic (most recent I put up) some fixings marks (look like HD staples or summink) on the face side/ front of door, filled in & unobtrusively small. Is this a common way to fix A to B here? or is it just screws from otherside/ rearside thru ledge > t&g board. These doors are 'vg amateur standard', so possibly he winged it.

 

thanks

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14 minutes ago, Onoff said:

How about...a sliding door in the room itself?

 

https://www.homebase.co.uk/our-range/building-and-hardware/doors/internal-doors/cottage-doors?facets=Type%3DSliding

 

The link above, just for ideas! You make the door then use cheap as chips door gear.

 

https://www.toolstation.com/sliding-door-gear/p34159?

 

I physically can't, well not in the position I need the door within the door frame. I think you mean shifting a door to within the room, sort of closing off the steps/ sliding twds bed.. would intrude in the room, & not the looks I want in here, & leaves the fitted frame redundent too.

 

I think I have the idea now, simply opening away from room, & wood to do it.. & seems simple on paper, but not quite so esp hauling it up & down tight stairs to fettle it. My frame isn't perfectly plumb & a slight bow-out in its midrift hinge side (LHS now), header isn't bad.

 

thanks tho.

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@joe90 I thought those plugs were always just wood filler.. never knew of 'plugs'.

 

Ok so i have my 40mm x 4 goldscrews which get me almost all way into the t&g, with head recessed 5mm into the back ledges/ braces: can I then plug these? is it just a flat bit to dig out the 5mm/ plug, instead of countersinking the hole then?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi chaps, happy new year.

 

I've made my brace & ledge door, trimmed to fit as best I can do. So just to fill my screw holes.. got a shock with price of 'endgrain plugs' @ £ 17. Any other ideas i could use?
 

10 mm flat bit I've used to countersink screw heads 5 mm deep or so. Ive seen somewhere an eg of making them with a whatnot, but what whatnot's not very clear.

 

zh

 

 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Hi chaps, happy new year.

 

I've made my brace & ledge door, trimmed to fit as best I can do. So just to fill my screw holes.. got a shock with price of 'endgrain plugs' @ £ 17. Any other ideas i could use?
 

10 mm flat bit I've used to countersink screw heads 5 mm deep or so. Ive seen somewhere an eg of making them with a whatnot, but what whatnot's not very clear.

 

 

 

 

Ahh you are alive !

 

10mm Plug Cutter is what you need - fits in the drill and cuts a nice plug out of a bit of timber. If it won't release from the source wood just flick it out with a chisel. Glue it in, leave the glue to go off then cut flush with a sharp chisel.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Faithfull-5023969227566-Plug-Cutter-No-10

 

You can buy them in sets too - I use them a lot and the erbauer ones from Screwfix with the countersink and the matching cutter are brilliant for the price

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-plug-cutter-countersink-set-4-pieces/6418V

 

Nice little video to show you how

 

 

 

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If you're going to paint the door then just fill the holes with a stiff PVA/sawdust mix and sand when dry. Even if staining it then uniform screw holes, filled with ordinary filler can make neat little contrasting points of interest. 

 

This set of plug cutters came from Lidl, cuts 6, 10, 13 & 16mm plugs. Tbh I've never even opened them. Under a fiver from memory but a while back.

 

IMG_20210106_182708263.thumb.jpg.737045ec8a2fe9bc5a59015cc530a968.jpg

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3 hours ago, MJNewton said:

Happy New Year to you too Zoot! This recent cold weather had me wondering how you were getting on, and I must admit to being quite relieved that you've posted again!


Well ive got better results in new top bedroom MJN, heat contained better.. so huge relief tbh, & sorted just in time for this cold snap. Loft refluff (held up by plant pots at the mo.. to go over downlights.. needed before i can put rest of fluff in.. shops shut) and thick blanket for a temp door, both done the trick. Thank god no awful back cold thing since rejig. Still not a warm room mind you, like below.
 

But, still need to turn whole CH system off 9 pm until i wake/ turn on again,  means super cold in mornings until 10am when it gets a bit of heat going. Brass monkeys, porridge and swearing for breakfast.
 

 

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2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

means super cold in mornings until 10am

Glad it’s a bit better for you, when I did up my first nearly derelict house (no heating at all and NO insulation) many decades ago  I used to put a fan heater on an old clockwork cooker timer (that could take the load) as my alarm clock on the floor next to the bed, I would wake to the “clunk” as the timer switched the fan heater on and dozed as the room warmed up. Panel heaters with timers are fairly cheap on Ebay so might help fir these very cold nights.

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Hi joe HNY.
 

Actually new bedroom is just about ok without a rad on 1st thing am, 14.5* or so ( luxury compared to my old bedroom next door).. its running the gauntlet down to terribly cold kitchen and bathroom next to it is the trial.. too tiny to get any other heater in bathroom bar my trusty £5 fan like your one, but not safe to put on timer me other end of house really. So i lump it.

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4 hours ago, PeterW said:

 

 

Ahh you are alive !

 

10mm Plug Cutter is what you need - fits in the drill and cuts a nice plug out of a bit of timber. If it won't release from the source wood just flick it out with a chisel. Glue it in, leave the glue to go off then cut flush with a sharp chisel.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Faithfull-5023969227566-Plug-Cutter-No-10

 

You can buy them in sets too - I use them a lot and the erbauer ones from Screwfix with the countersink and the matching cutter are brilliant for the price

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-plug-cutter-countersink-set-4-pieces/6418V

 

Nice little video to show you how

 

 

 


Haha yes, hi Peter HNY to you.

 

Ive had a super lazy xmas, couldnt get myself going after it, the door job didnt inspire me out of a january lazy gloomy fug.. but pulled finger out this week, made it.

 

Great clip, just the thing i need a 10mm one of those plug cutters then, simple as. Very useful thanks.

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9 hours ago, zoothorn said:

plant pots at the mo.. to go over downlights.. needed before i can put rest of fluff in.. shops shut)

The garden centers and DIY places are still open, I do respect you for minimising your movements though.

 

Plug cutters are available on eBay, Amazon etc and there is always Axminster tools, I'm sure you can easily get to the free postage order (£45) and treat yourself to a few other woodworking tools.

 

The plug cutters are best used in a pillar drill, some, the ones with almost a full circle at the base can be used in a black 'n' wrecker though, but the ones with spikes are pillar drill and do work a lot quicker with less burning in hardwoods

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