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33 minutes ago, Roundtuit said:

Personally, I'd go straight edge with no overhang, probably in a nice bit of oak, and not carpeted.   But then I prefer a more contemporary style,  and I haven't got a router...

 

Yes but that costs me a ton for 3x bits of oak tho. I am on a budget here hence scrabbling about for offcuts to make these steps.. as the new room will be carpetted soon it makes sense to continue on you see, & it joins in with the carpet in the adjacent Master bedroom then.

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Just route a bullnose on the front of the ply etc if you're carpeting over it.

 

And or route your own bullnose using a bit of softwood and glue and pin to the edge of a chipboard floorboard.

 

Sorry what do you mean by bullnose on the front of ply (googled bullnose but not clear).. you mean a roundover edge IE a quarter of a circle, or, a half circle? (like primed mdf sill with its fully rounded edge).

 

And then do you mean the routed bullnose as a glued -addition- to the sticky outy top step bit then? (why.. bc my top is thin/ IE to thicken it-?)

 

I can't make out what you are implying as a suggestion with the second sentence ("And or rout" is throwing me: is it meant to be "Add or rout"??).

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6 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

Sorry what do you mean by bullnose on the front of ply (googled bullnose but not clear).. you mean a roundover edge IE a quarter of a circle, or, a half circle? (like primed mdf sill with its fully rounded edge).

 

Either quadrant or half circle. Yes, like primed mdf sill, that's a variant of a bullnose

 

6 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

And then do you mean the routed bullnose as a glued -addition- to the sticky outy top step bit then? (why.. bc my top is thin/ IE to thicken it-?)

 

Yes as a glued on addition to the sticky out top step bit. For instance if your top bit was chipboard or cheap ply you might glue and pin on a bullnose made from hardwood to be harder wearing.

 

You could, if your top bit is thin, stop it level with the front of the step then use a construction adhesive to glue the bullnose to both the edge of the thin top and front edge of the concrete step.

 

6 hours ago, zoothorn said:

I can't make out what you are implying as a suggestion with the second sentence ("And or rout" is throwing me: is it meant to be "Add or rout"??).

 

You either glue on a roundy edge bit onto thin or cheap topping board, or one with a crap edge like chipboard or if the topping board is thick enough and good enough, say like close grained, decent ply, rout your own edge on it, with a router. 

 

This site, found at random has some info on carpeting stairs.

 

https://www.johncoopercarpets.co.uk/stair-runners-for-spring/

 

You might want the bottom step curved on plan so as not to catch your ankles when you step down into the room or more likely rush out of it to fend off the burning torch wielding neighbours:

 

john-cooper-carpets-alternative-flooring-stair-runner-pink.thumb.jpg.8c285e4b34210c1d60ac195f318285aa.jpg

 

 

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@Onoff ok thanks for that Onoff. Its becoming increasingly difficult to consider anything other than a flat 90* top/ vertical bit/ top of next step, without any sticky outy lip now. Adding/ gluing made shaped bullnose bits onto thin ply is going to be a nightmare as I just can't think how to make these, let alone how it could possibly be strong enough if joined/ added on.

 

Ideally a curved bottom step edge too.. but making it is too complicated, for me (IE how on earth you'd make a curved top edge bit without a template guide to follow round, which I presume means making this 1st, which Ive no idea how to) then making a shaped plinth bit for eg.. & this is nigh on an impossible prospect afaict.

 

Just making these 2 steps the right height & strong enough is difficult enough & Im still struggling just with how to do this.

 

What I need to ask, is how to make the lower 1st step (on the caber floor) so that its RHS is 'acceptable', as it will be seen. Do I clad it in something, skirting an option for here?

 

Im almost putting a line thru the whole idea.. & keeping these wretched huge 2 steps: if I can't figure out this lower step then I'll have to revert back to leaving as it is.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Adding/ gluing made shaped bullnose bits onto thin ply is going to be a nightmare as I just can't think how to make these, let alone how it could possibly be strong enough if joined/ added on.

Sorry if I'm not understanding correctly but are you talking about half round mouldings like these.

 

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Pine-Half-Round-Moulding---18mm-x-8mm-x-2-4m/p/121180

 

 

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2 hours ago, zoothorn said:

how to make the lower 1st step (on the caber floor) so that its RHS is 'acceptable', as it will be seen. Do I clad it in something, skirting an option for here?


No, skirting on walls only, make up height with any timber, step from 18mm caber or similar, bigger on front and RHS BY 25mm then route (if I remember correctly you have a router?) from the top and below before it’s fixed.

image.jpg

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1 hour ago, PeterStarck said:

Sorry if I'm not understanding correctly but are you talking about half round mouldings like these.

 

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Pine-Half-Round-Moulding---18mm-x-8mm-x-2-4m/p/121180

 

 

 

Right- I didn't know these existed, but, if these were part of what was being suggested (?) ... if so now I understand & can see a way to edge my 18mm marine ply- great. Thanks for that link.

 

 

 

 

 

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@joe90 really appreciate your sketch joe, very helpful. Is the suggestion to square-edge rout the top edges > then add something like Peter's trim suggestion? (he replied just after your sketch).

 

or rout the edge with a 18mm bullnose bit I don't have. I do have a 1/4 roundover I use for my amp cab edges.. maybe flip the top over & make do with whatever this might be called (a zoot bell end probably).

 

My lowest new step LHS differs from yours in sketch.. my wall is set away from this step 6" or so: I assume leave a gap, & I skirt just one tiddly bit along wall here to butt up to the step (pain to carpet here but so be it I guess).. IE.. Not just make the lowest step wider than the others LHS so it meets the side wall-?

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

rout the edge with a 18mm bullnose bit


no, route with a 9mm rounding over bit, first from one side then turn over and do the other, you end up with a bull nose which goes around the front corner.


 

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

My lowest new step LHS differs from yours in sketch.. my wall is set away from this step 6" or so: I assume leave a gap, & I skirt just one tiddly bit along wall here to butt up to the step (pain to carpet here but so be it I guess).. IE.. Not just make the lowest step wider than the others LHS so it meets the side wall-?

if it were me I would run the step right into the corner to stop you having a silly corner to get skirting into.

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16 hours ago, joe90 said:


no, route with a 9mm rounding over bit, first from one side then turn over and do the other, you end up with a bull nose which goes around the front corner.


 

if it were me I would run the step right into the corner to stop you having a silly corner to get skirting into.

 

Ok I'm actually thinking its only one small 6" bit of skirting needed (if I were to make lowest step same W as others).. &you see Ive put a 45* mitre on the long wall skirting this bit would meet. I can make it  a cm less so it goes in & it won't really be seen.. it just means a fiddly 6" like 'chimney' of carpet to fiddle into this bit.. which won't be my job. I think maybe this way is easier for me.

 

Ok understand the 9mm roundover idea/ I will see if I have one.

 

Thanks- making these 2 steps today, if I can..

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@Onoff ok understood- thanks for that.

 

The 1st R12 example I saw on skirting deemed "bullnose" in jewsons (& the more usual last R12 profile above.. but can't quite understand how this is done to be different to the previous one but nevermind I don't have an R12 anyway).. now that's one bizarre bull's nose shape in my book.

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

can't quite understand how this is done

 

With this sort of bit. If it's all covered in carpet then the radius is fairly immaterial. It's just something for the carpet to curve round rather than a sharp edge. 

 

Screenshot_20200927-112755_Chrome.thumb.jpg.28ab4c4b7a1fe91bd0f6c96c88eec498.jpg

Edited by Onoff
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Could anyone advise any ideas: I have a long 'shelf' 220mm x 4m area ontop my low retain wall I need to top with s'thing. I was thinking 1" bullnose mdf window board, but pricey @ £70 ish for 3.66m.

 

You can just see it LHS in this old pic (now pB'd & skirted the block side).

 

Any ideas? I can only think 3/4" pse board, but its pretty poor quality often cupped with knotty holes galore.

004.JPG

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18 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Could anyone advise any ideas: I have a long 'shelf' 220mm x 4m area ontop my low retain wall I need to top with s'thing. I was thinking 1" bullnose mdf window board, but pricey @ £70 ish for 3.66m.

 

You can just see it LHS in this old pic (now pB'd & skirted the block side).

 

Any ideas? I can only think 3/4" pse board, but its pretty poor quality often cupped with knotty holes galore.

004.JPG

 

Carpet it as a long bench seat? Or shelve that whole wall with that as the bottom shelf.

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1 minute ago, Onoff said:

 

Carpet it as a long bench seat? Or shelve that whole wall with that as the bottom shelf.

 

Yup thinking shelve it.. have it as a useful cabinet perch (this being my workshop), just wondering about material options.

 

Have I just got 1" mdf window sill, & my knotty often cupped 3/4" pse as options is my Q? I bet you'd have a more cunning idea!

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3 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

just wondering about material options.

 

You're talking to a man who cuts down old oil cans and heavy duty detergent bottles to make storage containers. Hell, there's even some rinsed out tuna/sardine/mackerel cans in use in my garage. Upcyling is king. 

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14 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Yup thinking shelve it.. have it as a useful cabinet perch (this being my workshop), just wondering about material options.

 

Have I just got 1" mdf window sill, & my knotty often cupped 3/4" pse as options is my Q? I bet you'd have a more cunning idea!

 

Scaffold boards are chunky and 225mm wide.

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4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

You're talking to a man who cuts down old oil cans and heavy duty detergent bottles to make storage containers. Hell, there's even some rinsed out tuna/sardine/mackerel cans in use in my garage. Upcyling is king. 

 

Yes I can see from pics you've got tons of ideas & different things used.. only comes with experience that, unlike muggins here.

6 minutes ago, jfb said:

Zoot - am I right in thinking that you are a cabinet maker? Is this true?

Correct me if I am wrong but I thought I saw something to that effect in a post a while ago.

 

Yup jfb, not the 'usual' cabinet maker tho.. had a couple of mine on gtr mag covers

Screen Shot 2018-05-02 at 11.23.36.png

28577533_10155412450479157_2769565522201187038_n.jpg

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Thanks jfb.. just cos I can make these tho doesn't mean I have the knowledge to know what material to use for X, or how best to fix it to Z.. being a step 1 amateur at all this still. Hope Ive shown I am capable tho, once Ive asked for help at a few jobs now.

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3 hours ago, daiking said:

Scaffold boards are chunky and 225mm wide.


Great fir that “rustic “ look and substantial. If it’s you're workshop you could have some shelves and a tool hanging wall.

Edited by joe90
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