timsk Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 Hi all, I'm in the process of building a garden room, (see my intro' thread here), well - studio if truth be told, but my wife thinks that sounds pretentious and prefers to call it a posh shed. Anyway, the walls are framed in 4" x 2" C24 timber, stuffed with 90mm PIR insulation. The exterior will be clad with Hardie Plank and the interior with 12mm mdf - not plasterboard. I'm unsure how best to install the mdf boards? I wondered about butt fitting them and taping over the joints with scrim and then filling them, but I suspect this may lead to cracks appearing as the boards expand and contract over time. The electrician who did the first fix suggested a 'V' shaped joint but, presumably, to create this I'd have to router the board edges? (Violins at the ready folks - I'm routerless!) Is a shadow gap a possible solution - or would that just look weird? Whichever way I end up fixing them, the boards will be painted white. So, have you any suggestions about how best to install the mdf boards? If anyone is kind enough to comment, then attaching - or linking to - some images that illustrate the finished appearance would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Tim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 You cannot tape them and fill it will stand out proud and look dog rough, can you just use a cover strip over the joins, nicely rounded edges so it looks like panels. Why not do a panel configuration, so flat boards but with a raised trim at floor and ceiling and at every 1200 around the walls. You can get a plastic T shape to go in the join so it shows a 15mm wide plastic trim at each joint. Have you thought about fermacel instead of mdf. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 Plus one with Rus You can’t fill and joint onto timber You could tape and joint Abito PB Just as solid as MDF You can fix directly to it like timber and a bit cheaper than MDF Or you could router a chamfer on the MDF edges to give you a nicer looking finish It all depends on what you are trying to achieve not using PB 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFDIY Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 27 minutes ago, nod said: Or you could router a chamfer on the MDF edges to give you a nicer looking finish They panel areas at my work like this and it looks quite good for the amount of effort involved, just keep your fixings away from the edge so you can fill and paint without loosing the edge detail 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsk Posted August 2, 2020 Author Share Posted August 2, 2020 (edited) Thanks for the replies. I've already bought the mdf - so I'm committed to using that. I didn't fancy plasterboard as I'm not a plasterer and I'm on a tight budget. Yes, mdf is more expensive than plasterboard - but not after one factors in the plastering. Also, getting rid of off cuts is difficult around my way, whereas, the 12mm mdf is the substrate of choice for our mosaics - so any off cuts will be used over time. I'm starting to get the feeling that I need to invest in a router, although it's quite a confusing tool to research for someone who - like me - has never used one! I'm sure YouTube will save the day on that front - just as it has so often in the past. Thanks again for the suggestions. Tim. Edited August 2, 2020 by timsk typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 Just use joint profiles like these and leave the router alone! 12mm is very little meat to be cutting into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Just use joint profiles like these and leave the router alone! 12mm is very little meat to be cutting into. Sure that’s what I suggested. ? c,mon keep up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 5 hours ago, timsk said: Also, getting rid of off cuts is difficult around my way can't understand why, it burns really well, about the only thing it's good for. ohh, unless you're cladding the external side of your kit ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsk Posted August 2, 2020 Author Share Posted August 2, 2020 3 hours ago, Simplysimon said: can't understand why, it burns really well, about the only thing it's good for. . . Burning plasterboard - that's a new one on me Simplysimon! ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 You could consider leaving a 6mm gap between the boards. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 11 hours ago, timsk said: Burning plasterboard - that's a new one on me Simplysimon! ? ahh. reading too fast ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now