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Data networking. Extend or relocate router?


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Guest Alphonsox
7 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Any reason not to buy this cheaper one ? I'll pay more if it's justified ?  

Sorry for being a tight arse. ?☠

 

If I remember correctly they are the same hardware in different cases. The metal case will give a bit more immunity from interference and will be a bit more mechanically robust but nothing you're likely to notice in normal use. Buy the plastic cased one as long as you can keep the kids from jumping on it.

 

BTW > The metal cased one regularly drops to around £14 so not much different to the plastic one, worth keeping an eye on over the next few weeks.

http://uk.camelcamelcamel.com/NETGEAR-GS308-100UKS-Gigabit-Ethernet-Wallmount/product/B00AWM7PKO

 

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Nick, It's not worth scrimping on the wall plates.  Tripping over Enet leads is an occupational hazard.  If someone goes arse over tit on a cable then almost certainly the worst that will happen is that the lock will snapped off the RJ45 plug at the plate rather than pulling out buried cables or snapping them out of the wall.

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Guest Alphonsox
2 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Simple and functional. ?

:ph34r: Bugger, that was my plan. Currently have 2 points run this way ( 1 for each sons rooms ) and getting 90mb down and 9 up. 

 

Solid CAT5 cable is supposed to be run between sockets, sockets are connected using flexible patch leads. As you have found you can attach an RJ45 to the ends of the solid cable and it will make a connection - for a bit. This arrangement is usually prone to failure whenever the plug gets twisted, bumped or otherwise molested. Unfortunately I know this from personal experience. My wife "persuaded" me to do a proper job after some singing competition on Iplayer stopped mid-yodel and refused to restart.

 

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On 18 December 2016 at 16:35, vfrdave said:

 

@Stones stick a 4 port hub on that single cat 6 for them to share or just patch the one that is needed at the time. Other alternative is to get a tp link access point and put it on one of those devices but then your using Wi-Fi.

 

A good option for strong reliable Wi-Fi is to use the likes of a ubiquiti AP and ditch the Wi-Fi off an isp's supplied router.

For the upstairs bedrooms, aka mission control, I'll run a cable for each device. The less clutter at these points the better. 

I hear the advice on terminating theses cables as God intended, and I of all people should know better as I've made so many off I've lost count. It's the cost mainly at the moment tbh, so I'll likely make the second switch off, as discussed, in the summer and just make the plugs off as well as practicable for now. Fwiw, @TerryE, the cables all run to behind the devices, eg. trunked or chased into walls and emerging from single back boxes via bristle fronted cable exit plates ( whatever they're actually called escapes me right now ) and I've allowed a turn of slack at a metre before the plug goes into said gadget. Tripping hazard has been mitigated afaic, but kids will be kids so I'll make my oldest boys off into proper outlets ASAP as he's the PC man and every 0 or 1 that he gets starved of will be a day off my existence. 

 

Gutted : Plastered the wall yesterday that has the two 1g 'signal' outlets for the attic bedroom. I've got a lower one and an upper one, linked by a buried PVC waste pipe ( set into the eps ). Upper one is for the wall mounted smart, and out of that 1g box comes a cable for RGB led 'halo' lights to wrap around rear of the TV, a single cat5 for the TV, a speaker wire for the centre so it can be snug under the TV and fixed with a Vogel, and an HDMI lead. Too late to separate them and get a dedicated 1g box cut in for the proper outlet ( unless I have the proper outlet and just have the other cables come out of the other half of a modular face plate )? Lower one has 5 speaker cables coming out for surround amp to connect to, a single cat5 ( soon to be two, thanks to the heads-up from @Stones about the blue ray ;) ) and the other end of the HDMI lead. Xbox and dvd both connect to surround amp which just happens to have hdmi switching on it, ( thank you Ebay bargain Onkyo surround for £62.50p in mint condition ), so only one HDMI lead needed. 

I reluctantly resigned myself from "system design" yesterday so we could start plastering ? but I fear a change today and some Easy-fill being required.

Bugger10. 

Thanks again, all. ?  

 

 

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Guest Alphonsox

Not a good choice - this is a managed switch as used in professional set-ups. They are complete overkill for what you need and require networking knowledge to set up and control. The ones linked to above are unmanaged and are "plug and play"

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cheap solution,

use an old modem/router and simply turn off DHCP addressing

I have a draytek main router,

1st port goes to an old talktalk router at the tv position,

2nd port goes to loft to another talktalk router which supplies wifi upstairs and goes to shed to another talktalk router providing wifi in shed and ethernet for my satellite box, loft router also goes to sons bedroom to yet another router for his PS and PC , 2nd port from loft  provides ethernet in our main bedroom, 3rd port in loft router goes to back bedroom, 4th port goes to cctv DVR.

3rd port on draytek goes to another talktalk router to provide a guest network that is islanded from the rest of the home network

 

talktalk are good at sending out routers, if you ring them up with any sort of problem its the first thing they do ;)

 

btw, my network is simply all cat5e, speed loss is un-noticeable tbh, I'd say anything more than cat6 for a home network is overkill,

 

 

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Just checked the bank. Soldering iron is coming out later and I'm hooking up the original ones for January.

F@@@ it, only so much I can do. In 4 weeks this went from rockwool and junk to this image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg 

Not bad considering I kept regular job going as well. Has a good mate help in evenings and weekends. Bribed sufficiently ????

Back to sanding ??????

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48 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Just checked the bank. Soldering iron is coming out later and I'm hooking up the original ones for January.

F@@@ it, only so much I can do. In 4 weeks this went from rockwool and junk to this image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg 

Not bad considering I kept regular job going as well. Has a good mate help in evenings and weekends. Bribed sufficiently ????

Back to sanding ??????

 

Slow coach.....

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24 minutes ago, daiking said:

I notice you're no tidier than anyone else.

At 9:30 last night I scraped the floors and keeled over. Was at it from 07:00 and I'll admit I was less than concerned about housekeeping after laying 5 bags of multi in 24oC heat.

Having your entire tool repertoire in the house really helps too. In between laying on sets I'm still fitting studs and boards down the stairwell ?

image.jpg

 Down there to get cabled and boarded with handrail. Ho ho ho my arse. ??

Pub later, need one for my sanity. 

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Guest Alphonsox
6 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Are the cat6 faceplates different to cat5? Likewise, I see cat6 patch panels too. 

 

Yes they are - They give better termination to the cables.

 

> Edit : The cat5 ones will work but may not get to full transmission speed. There is not a big price difference if you dig around. I ended up using CAT6 LAP faceplates from screwfix

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Ok, next one. 

I read talk of a third party wireless access point. Does this just plug into my new switch via a patch lead and give it some juice ( extra mains socket required ?). Also, if correct, recommendations please?

Looks like : 

VM router stays downstairs ( shortest primary cable from ISP ). 

Cat 6 from there to new 1st floor switch using port 1 of VM box. 

Port 2 and 3 of VM box to living room smart tv and blue ray.  

Port 4 to Internet printer all in one in dining room. 

 

New switch to to feed all data points upstairs plus 1 x WAP. 

Cat 6 throughout. 

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