Drainpipe Saddle Branch 110, 87.5 degrees

[ToughButterCup]

I'm drawing a blank trying to find one of these for sale : 

 

Anyone know where I can source one?  Might you have one down the back of your sofa maybe? If so, can I buy it from you?

 

[Rob99]

These guys seem to have them in stock

 

https://www.otpsupplies.co.uk/shop/plumbing-drainage/87-12ao-solvent-weld-branch-110mm/

 

 

[PeterW]

Any reason for wanting to use one ..?? They are a last resort for breaching an existing pipe. 
 

You should ideally expose a section of pipe and use a double socket tee, a short length of pipe and two slip couplings.  

 

[ProDave]

Get the first cut in the right place and you only need one slip coupling.

[ToughButterCup]

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

You should ideally expose a section of pipe and use a double socket tee, a short length of pipe and two slip couplings.  

 

Ah, thats how you do it......

I just saw the image of a saddle branch  and my thought train went from there. Just a little knowledge. Dangerous. 

[PeterW]

8 hours ago, ToughButterCup said:

 

Ah, thats how you do it......

I just saw the image of a saddle branch  and my thought train went from there. Just a little knowledge. Dangerous. 

 

Yes - cut a piece longer than a branch fitting plus a length of pipe that will hold two slip couplings - which is about 300mm.

 

Mark the pipe where the tee needs to sit, taking into consideration the length of the socket on the pipe. Cut the length of pipe out with enough space to slide the tee onto the stub. Chamfer, lube well and slip the tee onto the fixed pipe.

 

Now measure approx 300mm from the tee back along your second fixed pipe, and cut and chamfer. Accurately cut a length of pipe to fit the gap, chamfer both ends and mark the pipe where the slip couplings are mid point. Lube up and fit both slip couplings. Put it into the gap and then slide the couplings into place to the marks you've made.

 

Time for a cuppa and a chocolate digestive...

 

 

[Jason L]

On 18/06/2020 at 09:21, PeterW said:

Any reason for wanting to use one ..?? They are a last resort for breaching an existing pipe. 
 

You should ideally expose a section of pipe and use a double socket tee, a short length of pipe and two slip couplings.  

 

This is what I have been looking for, is this acceptable to connect to a sewer and can you get these in 150mm clay ? 

[Gus Potter]

Ah but.. yes saddle branches onto older pipes tend to leak for me as I'm not  that lucky. Slip couplers seem great but if you are not used to using them day in and day out they don't "slip" quite as much as you think. Again maybe I'm not so lucky or need to learn more.

 

But if you use a .. flexible coupler and follow Peter's suggestion..

 

At each end where it interfaces with the existing pipe you'll make life a bit easier as it's easier to slip them about, they are a bit more forgiving especially if the existing pipe move a bit when you are exposing it. They will cost a bit more but you'll save the skinned back of the hands and a lot of frustration.

 

 

[PeterW]

13 minutes ago, Jason L said:

This is what I have been looking for, is this acceptable to connect to a sewer and can you get these in 150mm clay ? 

So you can’t do your own sewer connection as it has to be done by an approved contractor. Or do you mean within your own boundary ..?

 

Below 180mm, most sewerage providers require  a full breach of the pipe and a connection using a preformed tee and the correct bands on either end into clay. Saddles in clay pipes are usually treppaned into place and epoxy mortared - specialist job tbh. 

[Jason L]

2 minutes ago, PeterW said:

So you can’t do your own sewer connection as it has to be done by an approved contractor. Or do you mean within your own boundary ..?

 

Below 180mm, most sewerage providers require  a full breach of the pipe and a connection using a preformed tee and the correct bands on either end into clay. Saddles in clay pipes are usually treppaned into place and epoxy mortared - specialist job tbh. 

It’s in my boundary, a private sewer at the back.  Won’t the tee section need to be clay and it’s 150mm pipe and I want to connect  a 100mm branch pipe that will be plastic. 

[PeterW]

7 minutes ago, Jason L said:

It’s in my boundary, a private sewer at the back.  Won’t the tee section need to be clay and it’s 150mm pipe and I want to connect  a 100mm branch pipe that will be plastic. 

OK so exactly the same as I told @ToughButterCup up the top. Dig it out, expose all round the pipe. Then you need a decent disk cutter with a diamond disk on it, strip a section out that will take one of these 

 

https://chandlersbs.co.uk/hepworth-sj1-2-clay-ob-jnct-plain-45-150x100mm

 

Install with the flow, and ensure the spigot is slightly higher than the centreline of the pipe run. 

 

Then you need two Flexseal 150mm couplers to make the joints on the new section. 
 

https://www.flexseal.co.uk/product/drain-couplings

 

Finally you need a 100mm clay to 110mm Flexseal coupler to connect to the spur so you can do the rest in uPVC. 

 

[Jason L]

4 minutes ago, PeterW said:

OK so exactly the same as I told @ToughButterCup up the top. Dig it out, expose all round the pipe. Then you need a decent disk cutter with a diamond disk on it, strip a section out that will take one of these 

 

https://chandlersbs.co.uk/hepworth-sj1-2-clay-ob-jnct-plain-45-150x100mm

 

Install with the flow, and ensure the spigot is slightly higher than the centreline of the pipe run. 

 

Then you need two Flexseal 150mm couplers to make the joints on the new section. 
 

https://www.flexseal.co.uk/product/drain-couplings

 

Finally you need a 100mm clay to 110mm Flexseal coupler to connect to the spur so you can do the rest in uPVC. 

 

Brilliant. Thank you ?