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Worktop junction with end panels


CC45

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Dear all,

 

Was going great guns putting our utility units and worktop in until last night.  I cut the worktop and slid it in place and found this:

 

IMG_3542.thumb.JPG.5451736779ff20ab9998248e513c2fe9.JPG

 

The laminate worktop is square edge and if I route a curve on this I'm told the edging tape & adhesive doesn't match it well enough to make a seamless join.  I'm pretty sure it would be OK on the edge of this bit though.  I'm torn now.

 

1. Do I just stick some edging tape and accept it looks an awkward junction and then move on to the next job OR

2. Order a new end panel and leave it at 600mm deep (current one is trimmed to 580mm to match the cabinet (560mm deep) + 20mm doors ).  Take off the old one and replace it.  I would need to do both sides.  More £ than option 1.  Reinstall cabinet the tall cabinet (RHS of the pic) and accept that the door is 20mm back from the panel edges OR

3. As per 2 but remount the cabinet 20mm off the wall so the door is flush with the panel edges.  Washing machine going in next door so unlikely that anyone will really notice that these doors are further out from the wall than any other one. moving the cabinet 20mm off the wall will involve a fiddle since id does need a good brace since the rear panel has to be removed for the fridge.  I could fix to the end panel.

 

Hope thats clear.

 

Its times like this that I wished I was in the trade and just knew what to do.

 

Interested in your thoughts.

 

Cheers

 

CC44

 

 

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I’d cut a small chamfer on it to 30 degrees so it’s not as sharp, get some dark wood laminate filler and butter the edges to fill the gaps in the chipboard and then epoxy on a piece of trim edge and let it go off. Then trim with a very sharp Stanley blade.
 

The filler behind it hides the light colour of the chipboard and you won’t notice it. 

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I've not had much success with edging tape.  For ease, I think I'd get a length of aluminium end cap, cut to suit and glue and/or screw fix it on. You'll be binning most of the end cap, but it will protect the edge and take a bit of wear and tear. It is the utility room ?

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I can't see why you wouldn't use edging tape. Fix with wood glue, using a hot iron over a cloth to dry the glue almost instantly (which also makes the tape sit nice and flat). Then use a small fine file to take the excess edging off.

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Glue & pin x2 20mm thick, timber strips to the back of the cupboard to bring it forward. Stain the same colour as the worktop.

 

Is it exactly 20mm proud? You could maybe stick 16mm pvc trunking to the back edge of the cupboard.

 

?

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1 hour ago, Vijay said:

I can't see why you wouldn't use edging tape. Fix with wood glue, using a hot iron over a cloth to dry the glue almost instantly (which also makes the tape sit nice and flat). Then use a small fine file to take the excess edging off.

+1. It is what I do and it looks really smart and looks right!

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12 hours ago, CC45 said:

Dear all,

 

Was going great guns putting our utility units and worktop in until last night.  I cut the worktop and slid it in place and found this:

 

IMG_3542.thumb.JPG.5451736779ff20ab9998248e513c2fe9.JPG

 

The laminate worktop is square edge and if I route a curve on this I'm told the edging tape & adhesive doesn't match it well enough to make a seamless join.  I'm pretty sure it would be OK on the edge of this bit though.  I'm torn now.

 

1. Do I just stick some edging tape and accept it looks an awkward junction and then move on to the next job OR

2. Order a new end panel and leave it at 600mm deep (current one is trimmed to 580mm to match the cabinet (560mm deep) + 20mm doors ).  Take off the old one and replace it.  I would need to do both sides.  More £ than option 1.  Reinstall cabinet the tall cabinet (RHS of the pic) and accept that the door is 20mm back from the panel edges OR

3. As per 2 but remount the cabinet 20mm off the wall so the door is flush with the panel edges.  Washing machine going in next door so unlikely that anyone will really notice that these doors are further out from the wall than any other one. moving the cabinet 20mm off the wall will involve a fiddle since id does need a good brace since the rear panel has to be removed for the fridge.  I could fix to the end panel.

 

Hope thats clear.

 

Its times like this that I wished I was in the trade and just knew what to do.

 

Interested in your thoughts.

 

Cheers

 

CC44

 

 

I think this is common. We wad this situation twice on our new kitchen (worktops were installed last week) the worktops came with edging strip and he just used some Colorfill and stuck a bit on and trimmed it and edged and what not.

 

We were even warned in the Wren showroom this would need done on site after cutting.

 

I can only assume you don't have edging tape...

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Having fitted kitchens before ( I have 20.20 hindsight ?) I brought my vertical panels out as I don’t like the edge of the worktop sticking out. (Sorry this does not help you !).

 

 

image.jpg

Edited by joe90
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14 hours ago, bassanclan said:

Can you trim 20mm off the back of the worktop so it sits nearer the wall?

 no overhand at the front them - won't get that past the decision maker....

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14 hours ago, PeterW said:

I’d cut a small chamfer on it to 30 degrees so it’s not as sharp, get some dark wood laminate filler and butter the edges to fill the gaps in the chipboard and then epoxy on a piece of trim edge and let it go off. Then trim with a very sharp Stanley blade.
 

The filler behind it hides the light colour of the chipboard and you won’t notice it. 

I like this idea - but prob without the 30deg cut..

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2 hours ago, Carrerahill said:

I think this is common. We wad this situation twice on our new kitchen (worktops were installed last week) the worktops came with edging strip and he just used some Colorfill and stuck a bit on and trimmed it and edged and what not.

 

We were even warned in the Wren showroom this would need done on site after cutting.

 

I can only assume you don't have edging tape...

Hi - no edging tape, we were told it wasn't needed (obviously by someone who hasn't installed one ever) - can buy some though.  Any pics of your finish?

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2 hours ago, joe90 said:

Having fitted kitchens before ( I have 20.20 hindsight ?) I brought my vertical panels out as I don’t like the edge of the worktop sticking out. (Sorry this does not help you !).

 

 

image.jpg

 

Hi @joe90 - the boss has said that this is what she wants.  I will order another side panel and replace the existing one, better than looking at it and thinking what if....

 

 

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions.

 

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2 hours ago, Carrerahill said:

I think this is common. We wad this situation twice on our new kitchen (worktops were installed last week) the worktops came with edging strip and he just used some Colorfill and stuck a bit on and trimmed it and edged and what not.

 

We were even warned in the Wren showroom this would need done on site after cutting.

 

I can only assume you don't have edging tape...

 

That's just a short cut bodge. @joe90's detail looks much nicer. The difference I suppose between some "professional" tradesmen who want to get onto the next job asap and the anal perfectionists who inhabit BH!

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6 minutes ago, CC45 said:

that 'anal perfectionists' is another £112 + VAT + delivery.  But agreed it does look much better.

 

Feel proud you'll soon be a fully paid up member then! ?

 

My kitchen came from Homebase and I made the big, deep and tall side panels from matching ContiBoard, again from Homebase. Not even sure if side panels the size I wanted were available as an extra from the kitchen catalogue. Colour match is bang on. Amazing how accurate I can finish a ContiBoard edge with a sharp router bit. Dead square (and effing sharp).

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17 minutes ago, Onoff said:

. @joe90's detail looks much nicer.


thanks, as I said having fitted a few kitchens you get to know what looks good.

 

18 minutes ago, Onoff said:

anal perfectionists who inhabit BH!


guilty as charged ?

 

16 minutes ago, CC45 said:

that 'anal perfectionists' is another £112 + VAT + delivery.


that’s why “planning, planning, planning” pays off.

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1 hour ago, joe90 said:

thanks, as I said having fitted a few kitchens you get to know what looks good

 

My chippy mate taught me how to use the mitre jig etc. In SWMBO's eyes he can do no wrong (only 'cos he gets stuff finished ?). I keep meaning to redo some cornice he helped me on. I could do better than he has. Bugs me everytime I look at it. Madam can't / doesn't want to see the issue.

Edited by Onoff
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33 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I could do better than he has


yes I am accused of being anal about detail but as my Dad always said “it’s either right or it’s wrong” and I don’t like wrong. People were always surprised when I did DIY projects and commented on the high standard. ( I think people assume DIY means a bodge) When I went self employed as a builder I called myself “D.I.P. builder”, and when people asked me if they were my initials I told them it stood for “do it properly” (and I never got a complaint ?).

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2 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

That's just a short cut bodge. @joe90's detail looks much nicer. The difference I suppose between some "professional" tradesmen who want to get onto the next job asap and the anal perfectionists who inhabit BH!

Utter nonsense. 

 

Joe90's detail is an option, but does it look much nicer? In isolated section of cabinetry, like this, possibly it might work but it would not be my preference. 

 

In the photo shown it works if that is what you like, because it acts as bookends to the full height cabinets, but in my kitchen for example it would look like I wasn't able to measure properly, my method actually takes more skill and time therefore I cannot see how it is a bodge!

 

I don't want decor panels floating out into my kitchen, that in my eyes is wrong and given it is not commonly done I am going to make the statement that it is therefore not, "the way it is done". You know what is going to happen there, as they are proud they are just going to take more knocks and scratches.

 

Using factory supplied edging and putting it on properly and trimming it (he used a small router with a laminate trimmer) you would never know it was not factory, so tell me that is a bodge and tell me that takes less time than floating a decor panel forward?

 

Frankly leaving a cut edge and leaving a decor panel big or floating out out is the bodge.

 

 

 

Edited by Carrerahill
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2 hours ago, CC45 said:

Hi - no edging tape, we were told it wasn't needed (obviously by someone who hasn't installed one ever) - can buy some though.  Any pics of your finish?

Yes...

20200602_142506.thumb.jpg.c435b738deebd68ef999bd56beb46fa1.jpg

Edited by Carrerahill
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2 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

That's just a short cut bodge. @joe90's detail looks much nicer. The difference I suppose between some "professional" tradesmen who want to get onto the next job asap and the anal perfectionists who inhabit BH!

Also, the chap who did our worktops is a cabinet maker, so well beyond kitchen fitting, he perfectly scribed and fitted our worktops to, I'd say, about 0.5mm accuracy (yet on this forum I was told that 5-10mm on worktops was fine, so much for anal perfectionists of BH) and with the masons mitre joints that I can hardly see.

 

So stand in my kitchen and tell me that my "professional" just wanted to get onto the next job.

 

 

Edited by Carrerahill
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My dad also used to say “there is no right and wrong there is only opinion” 

20 minutes ago, Carrerahill said:

Joe90's detail is an option, but does it look much nicer? In isolated section of cabinetry, like this, possibly it might work but I would still not cheat and not bother my backside to finish the worktops off with some time and skill.


I am sorry you think this is a cheat, I can assure you after years of fitting kitchens it was planned and yes I do think it looks nice (otherwise I would not have bothered with this detail)

 

23 minutes ago, Carrerahill said:

Frankly leaving a cut edge and leaving a decor panel big or floating out out is the bodge.


I am sorry you think mine is a bodge. The end panel is not “floating” it is firmly fixed.  The worktop was cut, routed and sealed before fixing. I did not leave the decor panel big, it was ordered and made to my specifications.

 

one of the reasons for not doing my worktop like yours is I have so often heard of people complaining that they have hit their hip bone on that very sharp corner, and again in my opinion an accident waiting to happen as a child catches their head on those sharp corners. Before fitting a kitchen I always attended with a kitchen planner from the supplier to give my opinion based on past experience with customers.

 

yes I like mine ?

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