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I bought a load of treated 6 x 2 C24 regularised timber just under 2 weeks ago, for some wall plates on my ICF build. I had an issue with some of them when I unpacked them, being twisted - so supplier exchanged those. What I'm finding is more of them are twisting - making them useless. Should this be happening and what can I do to stop it from happening???????

 

Cheers

 

Vijay

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19 minutes ago, willbish said:

Can you get them stacked up, somewhere out of the sun and put some weight on top. Few concrete blocks high down the length should stop then moving too much

 

Can do with some of them, but some will be fitted into the walls next week, but not fixed as no concrete..........................

Edited by Vijay
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2 hours ago, Vijay said:

I bought a load of treated 6 x 2 C24 regularised timber just under 2 weeks ago, for some wall plates on my ICF build. I had an issue with some of them when I unpacked them, being twisted - so supplier exchanged those. What I'm finding is more of them are twisting - making them useless. Should this be happening and what can I do to stop it from happening???????

 

Cheers

 

Vijay

me

i would send them all back

and get them when you have walls poured so you can fix them before they start moving about 

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45 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

me

i would send them all back

and get them when you have walls poured so you can fix them before they start moving about 

 

Not an option, have to go in the wall as I build up as the floor joists fix into them in places

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24 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Can you fit some 150x25 instead to hold bolts in place and stuff, then strip these off and fit your 50mm stuff later

 

Haven't I got enough to do ?

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3 minutes ago, Vijay said:

 

Not an option, have to go in the wall as I build up as the floor joists fix into them in places

strips of plywood or osb to fix your bolts to 

Iwould be suprised if your ICF without concrete would hold your big wallplates anyway- if its a poly type and how you going to keep bolts incorrect postion to incenter of the concrete .

your just trying not to have to drill concrete -- 

sorry i think you doing it wrong and making possible problems for yourself later -pour the wall ,then fit the wallplates 

Edited by scottishjohn
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1 minute ago, scottishjohn said:

strips of plywood or osb to fix your bolts to 

 

That was an option but 50mm board fixed into the Polarwall ICF better which is why I went this way

 

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30 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

Look down the length and Mark where it starts to twist and cut this section out.

I don't see how any timber wouldn't end up like that during this spell of great weather.

 

I'll have a look at them tomorrow

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3 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

so if it’s a pole plate to take your floor joists can you not fit some floor joists as well to keep it all true. 

 

 

They haven't been ordered yet mate, need to get the pour done and internal walls up to hold them

 

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8 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

scottishjohn how Vijay describes it is exactly how it’s done, why would you drill the concrete if you don’t need to, I fixed all mine like this, far cheaper, no drilling and no expensive bolts, just threaded rod and a nut and washer. 

and thenyou  swopped for correct dimension beam after concrete pour?

that i understand -you are really just making a jig to hold concrete fixings in correct postion ?

 but he is complaining beams are bent and worried that they will distort his wall 

which to me says he is trying to tighten it all up now before the pour

 

 

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@scottishjohn I didn’t swap out anything I fixed it all in and then poured the concrete. 

However I didn’t use solid timber, I hate it, it’s rubbish. 

I used kerto beams which are a glue lam but for structural work not for show, so they have a rough unfinished surface not ready to varnish. Very good in long lengths with no twist or warping, I think I had some 8m long. 

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It has gotten a bit of topic on how from how to straighten /prevent 6x2 timber from twisting to installing timber plates for 1st floor icf.

 

@scottishjohn it would be a lot of work to remove beams and replace as you mention. This is a link on what we done (method 1)  https://www.vancouvericf.com/nudura/technicalDetailsFloors.php with fixing the timber and pouring the concrete.

 

 

 

Edited by Alexphd1
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33 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

@Vijay can you not use a kerto beam instead of solid timber. 

Its like a big plywood gluelam. My pole plates are all kerto beams, straight as a die. 

 

 

Never heard of them, will look into them. How pricey??

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If I can't use the timber, I'd expect a refund as they're not fit for purpose (no way am I just gonna throw away 400 odd quid). I've emailed the builders merchants so will see what they come back with. I'll also get a price on Kerto beams (if they supply them). I need loads though :(

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