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Flat Roof for Balcony


Grosey

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Ideally you want a pad below the leg or fixing to lift the point above the main deck - only needs to be 10-12mm but then you drill through that to make your connections into the substrate below. This means any standing water will not get near the base of the fixing as you may find that tightening any fixing will compress and distort the GRP. 

 

100mm disks of marine ply epoxied to an abraded part of the deck and then fibreglassed over would work fine, then seal any bolt hole with either CT1 or marine sealant as @Barney12 suggests

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Making holes through the GRP isn't a problem if you have a robust method for prep, sealing and finishing at these points. 

Im in favour of @Onoff's solution, with 4 fixing points back to the vertical block work, but reinforced with a single cranked support at the centre of the 7m run, fixed onto the vertical wall below. That'll allow for a reduced strength detail for the construction of the rails and offer some resistance against lateral movement at the two external corners, the only real weak points here IMO. 2 people leaning back onto the rail at the corner is the only issue if no mechanical fixings are made at the floor junctions, but with only a 2m projection, that's already not a massive concern. You could go for cranked supports at each left and right hand side too, on the return walls, which when combined with the 4 back to block fixings at the start points, would be a very robust solution. The cranked supports can be made ornate / functional with up / down lights at the base to make them not look 'accidental'. This can be further reduced by fitting thicker glass and using the strength of the mechanical fixing ( glass to vertical uprights ) to keep everything stiff. 

Alternative is to go to a physically bigger and much thicker walled tubular construction, sufficient to do away with any additional vertical cranked supports. Choosing the right materials and clever design should give you a neat solution here. 

Fixing the feet down then becomes simple with just abrading the GRP and using a suitable bond, with slightly oversized ( say 100mm dia ) feet for extra purchase at each point. The shear weight of this as a single item will keep it in place, so you should be able to design-out any downward mechanical fixings afaic. 

Rainfall is then free to simply run off under the bottom rail, which will be floating along the entire run supported only by the feet. . 

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Any good? Place near Plymouth:

 

http://100percentstainless.co.uk/portfolio/fixed-faced-balustrade/#sidewidgetarea

 

On the assumption you're going to have to buy from somewhere they might advise on the design if you bought the bits off them.

 

I'm leaning towards 4 point fixing to the wall, raised fibreglass pads around the perimeter (with hindsight eh? :) ) and keeping it all "inboard" rather than face fix just for aesthetics.

 

What's the section at the balcony perimeter?

 

EDIT: Page 2 of the gallery on that link shows some cranked brackets. In a maritime environment Gr316 / A4 stainless is a must. Also you want to make sure they pickle the TIG welds or they can rust. 

 

If DIY'ing you might find a welder on the mig welding forum that'd be up for it.

 

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/

 

I specifically searched "stainless handrail" under Projects/Architectural. Love the water twist detail:

 

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/search/4693608/?q=Stainless+handrail&o=date

 

 

Edited by Onoff
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57 minutes ago, Grosey said:

Thanks Nick, a few people have mentioned cranked uprights but I can't find anything online, certainly not in any sort of modern stainless steel style?

Go bespoke, as you'll find these aren't exactly off the shelf items, ( but I've been proven wrong, and usually by my pie-hating nemesis @PeterW :ph34r: ). 

Fyi, these are just simple cranked stainless tube, with a couple of tabs welded on ;)

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I've had some peripheral experience with escape stair handrails on site done in stainless tube. They tend to make it in situ and dress / buff the welds on site.

Edited by Onoff
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I think these photos have already put me off cranked uprights, although they've done a tidy job, just too much of a beast of a thing to have in my setting. 

 

However im going to take a drive over to that place now @Onoff and see what they've got to say, thanks for the find!

 

 

IMG_2366.JPG

IMG_2367.JPG

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22 minutes ago, Grosey said:

However im going to take a drive over to that place now @Onoff and see what they've got to say, thanks for the find!

 

Happy to spend someone else's money help! :)

 

I thought it might be local 'ish. 

 

Their previous work does look good I think. 

 

If you were looking to limit stresses from the handrail affecting the deck you could consider still having raised pads but with a subtle weathering cowl in st/st on the base of the standard.

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2 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Happy to spend someone else's money help! :)

 

I thought it might be local 'ish. 

 

Their previous work does look good I think. 

 

If you were looking to limit stresses from the handrail affecting the deck you could consider still having raised pads but with a subtle weathering cowl in st/st on the base of the standard.

 

Decent looking place, small showroom but nice examples of their work. And lots of work on show outside as guys had moved the workshop outside to enjoy the sun. I've given them some dimensions and will await a rough quote back, then arrange a site survey to discuss how to actually attach the bloody thing. 

 

I do really like this example from their showroom with the hardwood handrail, could tie in nicely with my cladding. 

 

 

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Sounds good. If fixing to the wall I think you would want any wall fixings, through the Cedral, to be in line with the glass fixing cleats? Could probably figure a U shaped cleat and get in there with a ratchet spanner. On plan something like this:

 

u_01.thumb.jpg.0389e3702cf596889aae6c7caa6253aa.jpg

Edited by Onoff
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