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Connecting up: a bit of advice please.


ToughButterCup

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Thirty cubic meters of soil, sand, clay, MOT1, sore backs, calloused hands and swearing later .....

20200415_152047.thumb.jpg.15599791b095d182a8558e8f57bf75cb.jpg

Am I glad to have got to this stage without a drop of rain being spilt.....not to mention enjoy - deeply enjoy - going to the loo for the first time when this system is built!

 

Right: first hiccup

The pipe doesn't come out of the house square to the foundation. Laterally, its about 10 to 15 degrees off .

You can just about see it in this photo.

20200415_151908.thumb.jpg.22c500bb50b1fde59b99c040278029f2.jpg

 

How best can I correct that mis-placement?

 

 

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Yep 10, 15 ,22.5 bend just to correct yourself 

the bastard bit is you won’t know what you need until you lay a straight length of pipe in, as a couple of degrees out over a 6m run will have your straight run trying to get out of the trench

offer it all up and try a few bends. 

 

Is that a coupler on that pipe, if not then surely that pipe is around the wrong way. 

 

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11 minutes ago, Temp said:

 

I used one of those to connect my caravan drain. In addition to the flexi bend shown in the photo, half of the coupler can be turned 180 degrees to create a sideways s-shaped wiggle.

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1 hour ago, AnonymousBosch said:

No.

In common with many BH members, we ask for advice about stuff we've never done before.

 

 

I view you as one of the most hands-on BuildHubber who is onto 1st and 2nd fix, therefore it seemed odd that you would be asking how to implement a 15 degree bend in a drainage run. Many threads here get off to a meandering start because the problem faced is not fully described in the opening post and it takes a few replies before the full complexity behind the question is revealed.

 

I assumed this would be the case with your question, sorry.

 

If I was to rerun my own self build I would have instead purchased one of those £100 drainage component multi-packs which contain an assortment bends and couples. These are excellent value per component compared to buying individual items over the counter at Screwfix. Do you have much more roof drainage to implement?

 

 

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@Bob of this parish popped round the other day and without ceremony, left me a few bags full of second hand .....

 

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I thanked him, and thought no more about it - until today. BH folk can be very kind. Thanks J.

 

Since they are second hand, I thought I'd give them a rinse - taught me a lot - one or two of the seals have nicks in them. Should I recycle those?

And that grey thing at the back is as good as a child's transformer toy (and bloody expensive FGS!) . It can be as twisted as a drunk pretzel ... brilliant fun.

 

Anyway, I do as @ProDave tells me and try dry fitting the bend that closest matches my guestimate - take a pic and come back here for further mickey taking I suspect ..... and of course there's Mr Griffiths with his usual cheery note....

For the 

1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said:

[...]

the bastard bit is you won’t know

[...]

 

anything much.

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If you're (air)  pressure testing the system;  if using  the ones with the nicks you could give them a try, if not pressure testing  I wouldn't bother unless properly stuck.

 

You could leak test with two pieces of pipe a blank end and a straight coupler.

 

Stand vertical and fill with water with say 1m of water above the joint and check for leaks.

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You'll need a 10 on that. 

I wouldnt worry too much about small nicks in the rubber as long as they're not too big. 

 

Fwiw weve never actually had to air test any foul drainage. Usually we just bung everything and fill the stack to an upstairs aav and make sure the water level doesnt drop overnight. 

 

Also dont use the adjustable bend if you can help it. Especially underground.

 

You can get a couple of degrees play in each coupling anyway so you will be able to get it with standard fittings. 

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Also little tip for fitting pipes in a trench is to get the end into the socket loose (plenty of lube) then bang a couple of road pins (bits of rebar) in either side of it tilted out slightly. (this just helps to stop it jumping out which it will try to do). 

 

Then put that long shovel in the pic against the other end of the pipe and lever it in. (saves a lot of bending in the trench + gives you that extra bit of force) 

 

?

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59 minutes ago, Redoctober said:

For what it is worth, coming from a complete novice but would one of these not be suitable?

 

https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/browse/underground-drainage/flexible-couplings.html

 

 

I wouldnt. Firstly because its an expensive way to do the job, 

And those couplings are generally used for connecting to clay pipes. 

Not saying it wouldnt work, just unnecessary here

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Just rechecked for level.

All within 30 mm except for the stonyest bit ... 115 mm too high. And that was just where the shuttering was reducing the rate of trench collapse.   I  took the shuttering off so I could work more quickly. 

 

You know the rest.

Can't take a joke?  Don't self build 

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17 hours ago, Oz07 said:

Want me to send your worrying head into overdrive @AnonymousBosch ? Have you allowed for any differential settlement. ... What's your foundation detail?

 

Happy to worry just enough, but no more than necessary.

 

Allowing for differential settlement? Never even gave it a thought. 

section.thumb.JPG.79e2577731b65423a41d8e6083349911.JPG

 

The foul drain comes down inside the house and under the ring beam (shown above, apologies the illustration was intended for something else) as shown here...

detail.thumb.jpg.962c308af47d85eaecd4770fef10728c.jpg

 

as you can see below the foul drain emerges under the ring beam, and there's a couple of hundred mm clearance

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 and after a bit of fight, it now looks like this

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In terms of differential settlement, do I need one of those rubber connector thingies like in your photo between the pipe and the I/C 

connector.JPG.d770ca18a3f8af96284219815e856d52.JPG

 

Or will I be able to connect straight up to the I/C without one?

 

 

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