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Weld joint issues


Pocster

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Ok .

I had to glue 4 joints all at once to get this to fit . Tried it dry was tricky anyway .

Given I have about 30 seconds top I did ok - but some of the joints aren’t as tight as they should be .

Is this ‘ok ‘ ? . Will water test in 30 mins . Assume some CT1 around all joints would do no harm . 
 

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Second lesser issue .

The thicker 50mm white pipe was going to be my AAV run that I wanted to boss strap after the toilet ( end of the drain ) . Can’t see how I can do that now . I can fit it after the toilet ( but before anything else ) - is this likely to cause issues ?

 

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5 minutes ago, Onoff said:

How about some PVC gap filler wiped round with a gloved finger into the joints you're concerned about? Might be a bit messy but so what.

 

https://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/polypipe-gap-filling-cement-gfc100

Fecking star ️ 

Didn’t even know that existed . Yes I’ll do it on all those joints just as a precaution .

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not sure if its tricks of the camera but in some of the pics the pipes do not look to be inserted properly into the fitting, is this the case? do you have movement? Will this pipework be boxed in with no future access? Never used the gap filling cement but CT1 wouldn`t be a good long term fix for this IMO

Without coming across as an arse, would you reconsider doing it again and maybe cut the long upright allowing you to assemble the tricky bits with more care and then joining the now cut pipe with a slip coupling.

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56 minutes ago, pocster said:

Ok .

I had to glue 4 joints all at once to get this to fit . Tried it dry was tricky anyway .

Given I have about 30 seconds top I did ok - but some of the joints aren’t as tight as they should be .

I hear you! 

 

Some pipe runs can be done easily but when you need to slot new pipe in between existing fixed points it can be a bit of a mad dash to get it all fitted snug and lined up before the solvent starts to cause the PVC to bite.

 

 

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5 minutes ago, SiBee said:

not sure if its tricks of the camera but in some of the pics the pipes do not look to be inserted properly into the fitting, is this the case? do you have movement? Will this pipework be boxed in with no future access? Never used the gap filling cement but CT1 wouldn`t be a good long term fix for this IMO

Without coming across as an arse, would you reconsider doing it again and maybe cut the long upright allowing you to assemble the tricky bits with more care and then joining the now cut pipe with a slip coupling.

Some of them aren’t inserted fully .

The problem was the 2 tees needed ‘adjusting’ simultaneously to fit . If I do One bit and let it set it Won’t line up with the other Bit . I was reluctant to glue it all with a ‘tick tock’ over my head but couldn’t see any other way of doing it 

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2 minutes ago, pocster said:

Some of them aren’t inserted fully .

 

I would say, although not ideal, as long as the pipe went in and ended up with a good welded joint to the the coupling, it should be OK. 

 

I sort of pressured tested all my PVC work by reaching down the brand new, clean, soil stack and jamming the 40MM waste up at the boss with toilet paper, I then ran the sink and bath until I knew the whole network of pipes was sitting full over water. Maybe you could alleviate some fears of your own with a similar test. 

 

On hand-over/completion of projects, say a big office block the architects and consultants and anyone else within the "design" team usually have a big party, there is what is called "the big flush" where everyone was to go to the WC's and kitchens and tea points and simultaneously flush all the loos and run all the taps. It was a bit of a gimmick at the system had been tested already, but it was to emulate a busy working building, once it had been done everyone would return to the party as normal and contractors would the go round risers and basements and plant areas looking for leaks or failures. 

 

 

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9 minutes ago, pocster said:

The problem was the 2 tees needed ‘adjusting’ simultaneously to fit . If I do One bit and let it set it Won’t line up with the other Bit . I was reluctant to glue it all with a ‘tick tock’ over my head but couldn’t see any other way of doing it 

That is an issue - I like to "bench build" as many pieces as I can, but let's face it, there comes the time you need to fit it to your building permanently and this can cause alignment issues you describe. 

 

Another option is to try fit the whole system - then mark every piece with a number and an alignment mark. That allows you to set elbows and Tees to the correct angle as you solvent weld them. 

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Running a tap is NOT a leak test.

 

You need to get a proper drain test kit, which has plugs to plug the end, and you pump it up with air.  If this job is subject to building control they will probably insist on witnessing that anyway.  NOW is the time to get it right, not to find it has a small air leak after it is all boxed in and finished.

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29 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

you could have dry assembled and marked all fittings how theywanted to be orinentated before glue was applied

Yet I thought of that . Sharpie tends not to show up on black pipe . But with hindsight used tape or something as a marker 

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I currently have another toilet connection to make before the soil pipe could be filled . I should finish this other joint . Block the drain ( best way to do that ? ) . Then fill the entire pipe until I can actually see it in the toilet fitting waste 

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Part of the problem was I needed ‘play’ to fit all this so I unclipped the geberit pan end. Just gave me enough wiggle room . But once glued I had to run upstairs and position the toilet pipe again ( wasting valuable seconds ) .

Anyway ! 
Here I can see not fully inserted - so will never know if it was 100% leak proof .

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