Alexphd1 Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 +1 very interested in the spray foam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted March 6, 2017 Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 Just found my quote states a Lamda of 0.039 W/(mK) for Icynene LDC-50 - though I noticed it said H2Foam Lite v6 on the can (will get to the rest of the questions when time allows - new roofers coming today :-) ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 5 minutes ago, readiescards said: Just found my quote states a Lamda of 0.039 W/(mK) for Icynene LDC-50 - though I noticed it said H2Foam Lite v6 on the can They are the same thing - it's just trade names. Out of interest is there a sarking panel on your roof build up ..? I wondered if it could be used to spray the walls where I need to insulate a variable block wall and insulate at the same time to bring it up to a level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted March 6, 2017 Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 No sarking, just breathable felt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 On 02/03/2017 at 21:47, Dudda said: What's the minimum thickness of that foam or as I can still see the rafters what thickness are they? I'd be worried about foam expanding upwards and the felt held tight against the tile battens. Really you should have counter battens outside or good spray foam companies put in trays first which maintains a ventilation gap between the felt and the foam. The nominal thickness is 200mm - i.e. rafter full - in the eaves they have applied more in the main roof bit conservative to avoid too much cutting back. I still have bags of offcuts (and that was only from my garage roof). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Yes I was likewise worried about the felt being pushed against the batten. Where the lightweight brown (Buildbase) felt has been used there is no issue. Where the heavier weight VapR-free there are a couple of issues. The roofer reckoned the slates make this a non-issue but in a couple of places I pushed the felt down and have jammed a plastic tube between the felt and batten to maintain that gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 In a couple of places in the VapR-free felt section of the roof the foam has got between the overlaps and the sprayfoam installers are going to sort that out when they do the ground floor ceiling void sound proofing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Having cut back the foam in preparation for the OSB and cross rafter insulation, there are some voids - again the spray foam guys semm happy to plug these gaps on their return visit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 To get to 0.1W/m2k requires 45mm of Kingspan and 12mm of plaster. I've still to decide on 45mm or 25mm Kingspan though. As will be in still putting rockwool in the eaves to save a lot of complex detailing all hidden behind a vertical run of kingspan and osb on the attic truss uprights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Another comment on the sprayfoam - it is taking a good few days for the chemical smell to disappear, its only a background lingering odour now after 4 days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 On 04/03/2017 at 14:02, AliG said: Was the £37 a square metre for the area of the roof or the area of floor that the roof covers. I am guessing the area of the roof but just wanted to check. Also how thick is the insulation for that price? I managed to get the original quoted price down by 20% , the thickness varied across the different roofs and applications e.g. 200mm master attic, 150mm in utility attic, only 100mm in office floor void so can't give you a definite figure to work with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudda Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Useful info and update on the last 8 replies. Like the plastic tube idea and I suppose having taped felt would aid the issue of the foam coming out between the overlaps but is a lot of effort to prevent it. Do they cut it back in preparation for the OSB or do you and who disposes of all the offcut waste? In short would you recommend it? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 3 minutes ago, Dudda said: Do they cut it back in preparation for the OSB or do you and who disposes of all the offcut waste? In short would you recommend it? It all depends on the installer, for me the cutting back was a major part of the job. IIRC we ended up with around 70 large bags of offcuts which we had to take to the tip. It's a great material though and very airtight. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 I've been in @PeterStarck's place and it is without doubt the warmest, quietest, most draught free house I've ever been in. Sure a lot had to do with the spray foam getting into places rigid PIR just wouldn't. (To be fair it's the ONLY Passivhaus place I've been in). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) And a shot of the 100mm depth foam used as simple sound insulation across posi-joists Edited March 10, 2017 by readiescards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 22 hours ago, Dudda said: In short would you recommend it? It seems ok, it is expensive but saves loads of man-power, until I move in and live with it I can't really say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 There's quite a few videos on YouTube (mainly American I think) for DIY foam application. Kits as well as services offering it on eBay too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: There's quite a few videos on YouTube (mainly American I think) for DIY foam application. Kits as well as services offering it on eBay too. I used a couple of the fairly large DIY two-pack foam kits a few years ago, to insulate the inside of steel-hulled canal boat a friend was building. Pretty easy to use, once you've got used to the way the foam reacts under different conditions. A few degrees warmer makes it expand a fair bit more, so the trick was to try and guess the expansion room needed as the inside of the boat (which was in a big shed) warmed up. By the time we'd finished we'd both got pretty good at guessing the expansion rate, so there was less waste from the end we finished at than the one we started at. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexphd1 Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 whats the fire rating on the foam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 (edited) 3 hours ago, Alexphd1 said: whats the fire rating on the foam? I think Icynene is class 0. Edited March 23, 2017 by PeterStarck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 For the LDC50 foam they quote: Fire rating according to ATE n°08/0018 EN 13501-1 Behind a 12mm gypsum board: B s1 d0 I'm not sure what B s1 d0 means though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexphd1 Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Came across this, class F. I dont know exactly what spec that is in realtion to class O. http://www.uksprayfoam.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Icynene-Classic-LD-C-50-Technical-Specification.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexphd1 Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 @readiescards i know you still have to plaster board etc but have you noticed a sound reduction from upstairs with the spray foam in the posi-joists? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 3 hours ago, Alexphd1 said: Came across this, class F. I dont know exactly what spec that is in realtion to class O. http://www.uksprayfoam.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Icynene-Classic-LD-C-50-Technical-Specification.pdf Class F is flammable. Probably OK if plasterboarded and all lights / sockets /penetrations are fire rated / fitted with intumescent. Often manufacturers of flammable building materials claim a fire rating for a complete construction rather than the product alone. Lots of breather papers, membranes, multi foil insulation etc are also class F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexphd1 Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Another question what's class e? Another open cell spray insulation is lapolla which is rated to class e. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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