Powerwall/enewall or weber

[Scotty78]

Hi 

 

Looking to get my house re roughcast and wondering what's the better system enewall, weber or something else. The house itself is from the 1960's. The existing roughcast is holding up quite well but doesn't look great. I noticed a lot of new build houses around here that are around 10 years old are starting to show like a red dye coming through the roughcast, doesn't look great but I have no idea what pre mixed stuff was used on the building sites. The houses did look good when first done but now id say they actually look worse than my old house. Something I am keen to avoid. 

 

What's the coverage like with enewall? I need 130m2 roughcast. Also if anyone knows a ballpark price of what I should expect to pay that would be great. Based in Glasgow.  

 

Thanks 

[nod]

Webber isn’t the best 

I’ve never heard of enewall

I’ve been using K tend products for the last 20 years without any real problems I use wet and dry dash on a regular basis Both look great and Stand the test of time

The after sales a tech support from K rend is second to none 

 

[makie]

32 minutes ago, nod said:

Webber isn’t the best 

I’ve never heard of enewall

I’ve been using K tend products for the last 20 years without any real problems I use wet and dry dash on a regular basis Both look great and Stand the test of time

The after sales a tech support from K rend is second to none 

 

 

Enewall is the new name of Powerwall if that helps.

[nod]

Webber isn’t the best 

I’ve never heard of enewall

I’ve been using K tend products for the last 20 years without any real problems I use wet and dry dash on a regular basis Both look great and Stand the test of time

The after sales a tech support from K rend is second to none 

Right powerwall Almost identical to K dash From memory I think it was about 25% more expensive than K 

Mot a fortune on a small job like yours if you have a preference 

 

you will need a base coat and mesh with both products 

The labour figure should be around 

£22  m2

[Scotty78]

52 minutes ago, nod said:

Webber isn’t the best 

I’ve never heard of enewall

I’ve been using K tend products for the last 20 years without any real problems I use wet and dry dash on a regular basis Both look great and Stand the test of time

The after sales a tech support from K rend is second to none 

Right powerwall Almost identical to K dash From memory I think it was about 25% more expensive than K 

Mot a fortune on a small job like yours if you have a preference 

 

you will need a base coat and mesh with both products 

The labour figure should be around 

£22  m2

That's really helpful. I seen 2 houses being cast recently near me, both used powerwall topcoat. One done a scratch coat over the existing roughcast, like the old way of doing things and then applied a topcoat but the other just seemed to apply a top coat directly onto the existing 50 year old roughcast. Should the base coat be a powerwall/k rend supplied product or the hand mixed scratch coat?

 

Considering just getting my own scaffold up and having the cast and roof tilies, fascia/soffit done at the same time so knowing ballpark labour figures really helps me, so thanks for that.  

 

Is there going to be much difference in finish from hand applied to using a tyrolean?  I am guessing the gun will just be quicker to apply?

 

Final question, at the front of my house I have tiles between the bay windows. I really don't like them and hear a lot of road noise in the upstairs of my house. I want to take them off and have them cast over, I am guessing they would just fit osb board and cast over it but am I giving myself any problem by doing so? 

 

Thanks 

[Scotty78]

Also just on the subject of labour cost. My wall area is 107m2 that's with the windows and doors taken out. Its 130m2 with them left in, I'd guessed beading round the windows would be time consuming so had left them in for the calculations but I'm guessing your ballpark 22 per m2 per hour probably takes windows/doors into account

[nod]

47 minutes ago, Scotty78 said:

That's really helpful. I seen 2 houses being cast recently near me, both used powerwall topcoat. One done a scratch coat over the existing roughcast, like the old way of doing things and then applied a topcoat but the other just seemed to apply a top coat directly onto the existing 50 year old roughcast. Should the base coat be a powerwall/k rend supplied product or the hand mixed scratch coat?

 

Considering just getting my own scaffold up and having the cast and roof tilies, fascia/soffit done at the same time so knowing ballpark labour figures really helps me, so thanks for that.  

 

Is there going to be much difference in finish from hand applied to using a tyrolean?  I am guessing the gun will just be quicker to apply?

 

Final question, at the front of my house I have tiles between the bay windows. I really don't like them and hear a lot of road noise in the upstairs of my house. I want to take them off and have them cast over, I am guessing they would just fit osb board and cast over it but am I giving myself any problem by doing so? 

 

Thanks 

Ask as many as you want

 

There will most likely be a frame that the tile battons are fixed to 

Quite a simple job to screw cement board to the frame Then scratch and fibre mesh the same as the rest of your house 

[Scotty78]

I had hoped to put some sort of sound deadening behind the fibre board but guessing I wouldnt have much space 

[A_L]

33 minutes ago, Scotty78 said:

I had hoped to put some sort of sound deadening behind the fibre board but guessing I wouldnt have much space 

 

The frame will probably be about 100mm. Use acoustic insulation e.g. Rockwool RWA45/RW3/RWA4/RW5/RW6 leaving a rainscrreen type cavity.

[Scotty78]

17 hours ago, A_L said:

 

The frame will probably be about 100mm. Use acoustic insulation e.g. Rockwool RWA45/RW3/RWA4/RW5/RW6 leaving a rainscrreen type cavity.

Thanks that rockwool looks ideal. What do you mean about the rainscreen cavity?  

[scottishjohn]

23 hours ago, Scotty78 said:

I noticed a lot of new build houses around here that are around 10 years old are starting to show like a red dye coming through

you sure thats not some sort of natural harmless fungus/algae growth  --very common up here.

look at wall that faces south and then north wall --if its clean on south wall --then its a natural fungus,it don,t like sun --

you didn,t get it on old houses before smokeless zones -needs clean air to grow 

[Scotty78]

9 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

you sure thats not some sort of natural harmless fungus/algae growth  --very common up here.

look at wall that faces south and then north wall --if its clean on south wall --then its a natural fungus,it don,t like sun --

you didn,t get it on old houses before smokeless zones -needs clean air to grow 

Not sure John I just noticed a lot of staining/seeping through. Next time I pass them I will check what face of the house its on. 

 

[A_L]

5 hours ago, Scotty78 said:

What do you mean about the rainscreen cavity?

 

Air gap behind render carrier board.