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How best to secure vertical MVHR pipes to wall?


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1 hour ago, readiescards said:

Not being a builder, I don't know what a builders strap is, however a quick Google suggests:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-builders-band-galvanised-dx275-20mm-x-9-6m/38619?kpid=38619

 

which looks ideal, thanks for the pointer very useful, cheers!

 

Its got 101 uses but be careful as the edges can be sharp so if you pull anything through a loop of it then it can cut into it. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

What on earth is going on here?  This looks more like something out of a 1960s SciFi TV series.  IMO, you should bring them up through the floor as close to the wall as possible and keep them vertical or horizontal.  Horizontals should run in the floor voids. You can get the radials down to around 300mm or less.

 

OK, I have a timber frame, but  I just boxed mine in deep studding in my en-suites and in the corners of bedrooms where we were planning to have built-in wardrobes anyway to minimise the need to sacrifice living space.  I think we lost the equivalent of 120 × 350.mm in total where we could lose the verticals.  Where needed, I just used long ziplocks to hold them securely and packed up any loose space in the boxing with acoustic bats.

 

The strapping that BPC supply is really to hold the runs of large pipework to and from the MVHR unit.

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@readiescards,  you've created some knots! Uragghh  You have to plan your routes a bit like a electronic engineer lays out a circuit board.  Pipes should go horizontal or vertical and you should allow for the curves.  All cross overs should stick to a simple rule and be consistent otherwise you will get into the hopeless tangle that you seem to have.

  • If you letter the top pipes left to right A-G and the bottom ones 1-5 then you've got 1-F, 2-C, 3-B, 4-G, 5-A when it would have been a lot more sensible to route 1-A, 2-B, 3-C, 4-F,  5-G.
  • You could have cut out the 45° wedge above your diamond-cut holes in the blockwork to allow the 2 and 3 pipes to start their radii turns tighter into the wall and minimise the depth of the boxing and also packed the entire batch of five pipes into a denser 200×300 tight in the corner with some wood framing that the plasterers could have easily boxed in.
  • Also remember that you've got to allow the pipe lengths to allow the horizontal + vertical runs which is not the same as a wiggly diagonal -- you know: old Pythagoras theorem.

Still, each to his own.

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@TerryE thanks for the concern and advice most kind. As you can I made some good progress last night at the tidying up these pipes, which will be lost in an rockwool filled void along with soil and waste pipes

2016-11-09 12.53.54.jpg

 

The pipes entering the block work are angled at maybe 20degree, as I need them to exit nearly flat the other side the wall 

Edited by readiescards
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That's better :)  It's a pity that you can find an extra half metre on pipe 4 and metre or so on pipe 5, then you could have run them vertically up the wall and only had to box in the corner of the room rather than lose 250mm for the whole length of that wall.

 

If I were you I wouldn't have bother with that strapping but just banged a couple of noggins up between the joists and laid the pipes on those.  Also note that your BInsp might has a issue with a boarded out wall which doesn't have fire stops along the top.  Another advantage of boxing in and packing the box section with acoustic insulation.    

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I intend to pack with insulation the entire space (as it is effectively and outside wall in places)

 

Any chance you can point me to some details of what a firestop needs to look like please (although it will be my chippy building the box so hopefully he'll know but would be good if I know)

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 27/10/2016 at 08:38, PeterW said:

 

Its got 101 uses but be careful as the edges can be sharp so if you pull anything through a loop of it then it can cut into it. 

 

Get some pipe felt and put it between the strap and the pipe. Learned that from the plumbers!

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