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Corten steel sheet cladding


DarrenA

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Our build has quite a lot of decorative cladding - the brown bits in the pictures (the white bits are brick). Our architect has specified aluminum cladding here but it seems very expensive and not DIY friendly. I'm considering switching to corten steel sheets instead with visible screw fixings and a gap between the sheets for expansion. 

 

I've attached the architect spec for the wall build up for aluminium cladding. Basically it is fixed to 18mm ply on batons to give a cavity behind. Does anyone have an equivalent spec if I use corten sheets instead? In particular, does it need the ply backing or can I fix it straight to batons? How do I fix it - should the screw holes be oversized for expansion, how many fixings, how much gap between each sheet, should the gap be filled with anything like rubber gaskets, etc. 

 

Also what thickness of sheet is appropriate. 1.5mm and 2mm seem common. I'd like it as light and easy to work as possible but don't want any crinkles or dents. 

 

And finally is this a good idea or am I missing something?  All thoughts appreciated ?

 

 

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3534 06 Photomontage View 02 Rear Elevation amendments -1875x1404.jpg

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Yes, that has crossed my mind. If the drips drop down I think the run off can be managed to avoid the bricks. But if they are blown around in the rain and streak sideways then yes it's going to be an issue. My fallback plan is to hose the bricks down but am not sure if that will remove the stains. 

It's a very good point. 

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Our architect has been great but has also been paid so she isn't keen on changing the design, especially for free. But she recommended the Kingspan corten cladding solution. I'm pretty sure this comes in stable sheets of corten wrapped around insulation. I'm going on their installers training course next week to find out more. But my gut feeling is that it will work out far more expensive than plain sheets. 

I also went on the Tata Steel Colorcoat-Urban course for painted steel cladding. It was impressive, easy to fix, belt and braces watertight and in budget. But the panels fitted quite loosely and didn't give a flat, smooth finish. Also the colour palette is very limited for small orders. 

Thanks for the rust advice, it has put me off a lot. The question is what cladding to use instead. I tried to get PPC aluminum cladding quotes based on our plans but the only company who seemed to consider the job properly came back with a quote of nearly £20k. Nothing came in under £12k. Colorcoat Urban came in at £4k which is in budget but like I say, we didn't like the product for our house. Black timber cladding is to our taste and might be where we end up. It's also a possibility to have elements of corten in areas well away from the brickwork such as around the staircase. 

Decisions decisions. 

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I live near the GD "Rusty House".  I have not noticed any streaks but I think this risk was largely designed out.  They have even done boundary fencing in the same stuff.  I they have perforated panels.  I think it was expensive.

 

I am not very keen on the look.  The guy who installed it found it a pain to work with.  I have read that the material can sometimes suffer from premature failure due to corrosion.

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3 hours ago, DarrenA said:

Yes, that has crossed my mind. If the drips drop down I think the run off can be managed to avoid the bricks. But if they are blown around in the rain and streak sideways then yes it's going to be an issue. My fallback plan is to hose the bricks down but am not sure if that will remove the stains. 

It's a very good point. 

No, it will not, you will have rusty staining on everything it touches. Once the layer or protective rust has set up it certainly stops, but by that time it is too late for the materials it has stained.

 

Google New York Corten Steel road staining - I remember it was used on a job years ago, and there were a lot of concerns about the staining, and someone produced a photo of a whole road in New York that was rusty coloured from a new building. It was there for years! 

 

Nice in the right situation, but needs managed.

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58 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Have you looked at a product called rockpanel 

we are looking at it for a couple of elements of our place. 3781486E-D2E6-4F5E-9C34-EF0F57421B98.thumb.png.3d09264bc43b3fbd8c852a0e0d522d4d.png

That's exactly what I thought of. I got some samples and one of them basically looks like rusted steel. I'd guess much easier to work with and install than the steel. I've had the samples outside for over a year now, and they look perfect. Great material, I'll be using if for my soffits and fascia. Would like to use more of it, but can't as we're in a conservation area.

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15 hours ago, Sensus said:

I'm pretty sure it won't: I've had to deal with the removal of rust stains from brickwork for developers, where non-stainless fixings were used for timber cladding. We had to use oxalic acid to get rid of it (and they weren't white bricks).

had the same problem where  an aerial pole was  attached to my feature fyfe stone exterior chimney structure on end of house

 anyway

years on and the clamps that were used for aerial pole were not S/S ,by this time i was on sky so pole had gone --but the stains remained 

asked many builders  how to get rid of stains and tried acids etc

---end of the story

 i got a sandblasting attachment for my karcher power washer and a bag of kiln dryed silver sand 

blasted it all and it took it out --but  watch out for the over spray

I should have covered it  even though it was  not that close

i have an upstairs slightly sand blasted window   now,  LOL.

 

 

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On 06/11/2019 at 20:49, Russell griffiths said:

Have you looked at a product called rockpanel 

Do you have any idea of the price and whether they sell direct rather than through installers. I've gone through my samples pile and found some and it might work.

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