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Q: Fischer resin/ anyone used it?


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Hi- I have resin (fischer). I've never used before so no idea what to expect. The info is so stupidly complicated & unclear I cannot prep properly to do the job.

 

Job: concrete pads, 12mm holes drilled & cleaned. 10mm SS bars in > resin > nuts etc. 16x holes in total.. so a fair few. I got 1 tube of this resin.

 

I have two nozzles: now why is not said IE does this imply the stuff sets fast & so idea is to dispose of a nozzle, put other on & continue? any idea how long until it sets within the nozzle? if it does, is the resin now totally n/g.. or just the stuff within the nozzle?

 

Can anyone shed any light on how this stuff behaves/ sets/ the nozzles/ the cap once taken off the tube (can it be replaced on?).

 

Thanks, zoot

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yes it sets quickly and where the two parts meet and mix it will harden  the end of the aplicator --so do all your holes at one go =clean them out -then glue all bolts in at one go and hold them vertical while it sets 

 is it this one

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-p-polyester-styrene-free-resin-380ml/42772

 

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The 2 part resins set pretty fast.  Don't spend more than 5 mins on each fixing hole.

 

Some of the resins use a standard mastic gun, so these may be better for you.

 

Make sure you clean your holes!!

 

Squeeze the resin onto some scrap card until you can see that it is mixing properly in the nozzle.

 

Insert the nozzle deep into the hole and squeeze the trigger as you withdraw, so the hole is about 2/3 full.

 

Turn the studs anticlockwise as you insert them.

 

It is quite satisfying to do if you are fixing something simple.

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6 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

The 2 part resins set pretty fast.  Don't spend more than 5 mins on each fixing hole.

 

Some of the resins use a standard mastic gun, so these may be better for you.

 

Make sure you clean your holes!!

 

Squeeze the resin onto some scrap card until you can see that it is mixing properly in the nozzle.

 

Insert the nozzle deep into the hole and squeeze the trigger as you withdraw, so the hole is about 2/3 full.

 

Turn the studs anticlockwise as you insert them.

 

It is quite satisfying to do if you are fixing something simple.

 

Ok thanks for tips how to use with one nozzle.. but I still just can't establish why I have 2 when to use the other, how long to expect it to harden  in nozzle. its too late now/ I had to do it as rain's coming in hard tonight/ last 3 days only window I had.

 

And a disaster- I felt a sponge of air in every hole, the depth was way shorter than I drilled, & altho I spent most of y'day cleaning holes as best I could possibly do, brushes, vacs, bellows.. it seems alot of debris been compacted in the btm of holes.. is all I can think of as to why my 95mm holes only 60mm with alot of the bar protruding (which means my shoes won't fit on too) when I went to put the bars in. Whether the resin has mixed with this debris.. who knows.

 

Damn german overdoing things- ridiculous hundreds of tiny diagrams & no text to say what the heck alot of it means.. & nothing on why I have 2 nozzles or when it might set in it.

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your mum told you 

"cleanliness is next to godliness "

there are alot of jobs where cleaning is more important then godliness --this is one of them -you could have just run yur drill down again and again to get debris out and try the studs "dry " before resin 

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Just now, Mr Punter said:

2 nozzles if you don't use it all at once.  Because it is not pre-mixed it keeps OK. They sometimes have a screw cap as well.

 

Yes, grind away!

 

So look you see I had so much strife with soudal foam + gun, its how you use the nozzle, like how/ when to take off the gun/ how to clean (still no idea).. I mean one false move/ you take off the wriong thing & the lot sets, & you waste expensive stuff & possibly screw up in middle of a job.

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2 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

your mum told you 

"cleanliness is next to godliness "

there are alot of jobs where cleaning is more important then godliness --this is one of them -you could have just run yur drill down again and again to get debris out and try the studs "dry " before resin 

 

 

I did this countless times with every drill/ extracted the most I could. Then got a vac on, then a brush, vac again, then a fine pick on btm, brush, then blew each very hard with bellows, brush probably 8-10 times each, blew out: I must have spent 1/2 hr cleaning every one. I thought I had them ok, as dust got less & less to very little coming out.. but now I must have just compacted alot of loose stuff down.

 

I mean the brush itself cannot extract stuff at the btm, it only contacts with the sides, so you need some form of suction device.. &v a vac was mentioned, so I went way ott on brush/ vac as best I could do.. it seems an impossible situation to get the debris out.

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3 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

 

I did this countless times with every drill/ extracted the most I could. Then got a vac on, then a brush, vac again, then a fine pick on btm, brush, then blew each very hard with bellows, brush probably 8-10 times each, blew out: I must have spent 1/2 hr cleaning every one. I thought I had them ok, as dust got less & less to very little coming out.. but now I must have just compacted alot of loose stuff down.

 

I mean the brush itself cannot extract stuff at the btm, it only contacts with the sides, so you need some form of suction device.. &v a vac was mentioned, so I went way ott on brush/ vac as best I could do.. it seems an impossible situation to get the debris out.

If i was at work  i would use compressed air to blow it out 

 maybe next time 14mm holes for 10mm studs?--you only got 1mm either side of stud at 12mm hole

Edited by scottishjohn
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1 minute ago, scottishjohn said:

battery powered tyre inflator ?

 yup. if I had on of these. Id have used it..

 

job's done, but Ive no idea if its ok, only just good enough or a useless bond. only time & a storm will tell.. not exactly ideal.

 

 

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

This stuff apparantly cures in 11-20*C in 60mins.. is that right? that means I can whack on nuts/ anglegrind the bars etc.. in an hour?


nope ... 

 

Process of approach is ...

 

Clean the holes (thin bit of hose and blow will do..!) wear safety specs as cement in the eye hurts ..

 

Put a nut and washer onto the threaded rods so 10mm of thread is showing. 
 

Place the plates in place

 

Inject resin into the holes

 

drop the rods in, give each a push and one full turn. Don’t do anything with the nuts at this point. 

 

repeat for other pads

 

go make a brew and get a couple of HobNobs (preferably chocolate)

 

Drink the brew, check the weather for tomorrow then when 60 mins are up, go back outside. 
 

Take the nuts and washers off the rods, use additional washers to level the plates then put nuts and washers back on ... hand tight only. 
 

Tomorrow ... go back and tighten with a spanner..!!

 

Job done ?

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@PeterW I wish i had this post before I did it. I dont get the plates on tho/ you've no way of wiping off excess with plate on, & excess will bond to plate.

 

Ive done it before your post, but came seriously unstuck & unsure about the whole job as a result. The cure time info @ 60mins is maybe inept: I put nuts on & went for a dry run of tightening up one pillar/ shoe. This went ok, after i enlarged all 4x shoe holes to 13mm, it went on.

 

Onto the 2nd pillar, holes enlarged. 3 nuts went on ok (de-burred with angle grinder, I cut the big bolt 5cm excess off 1st you see to help get shoe on.. which I hadn't accounted for so high: something went wrong with the holes depth).  But the last sodding nut got stuck on the thread, & stupidly I forced it, but it was super solid stuck.. so I continued with the spanner fingers x'd.. & the damn whole bolt started turning in the resin. Buggered.

 

Ok so i cut this sodding nut off/ this bolt unuseable. I don't know if it was the resin A) not cured B) not fixed properly due to dust/ debris in hole or C) you wouldn't expect the resin to cope with such pressure anyway if a stuck firm nut is forced down / the bar forced around with a spanner.

 

What do you think?

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7 minutes ago, PeterW said:

3 bolts is plenty

 

Live, learn and carry on tomorrow. 

 

But more important is your view on the resin job I did: if this sod stuck nut-on-bolt/ the whole thing twisted round by muggins trying to force the nut on with spanner.. would you expect the resin to be so rock solid Id not be able to push spanner round at all, or, is the fact it shifted signify all my resin job is perhaps n/g?

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2 minutes ago, PeterW said:

You’ve probably cross threaded the nut - that’s why it’s turning. 
 

Resin will be fine but takes a full 36-48 hours to set completely so I wouldn’t be worried. 

 

Oh yes the nut/ bolt both totally shot.. its really not important vs the fact that it just turned.

 

I hope you're right & at least my others are ok.. but it doesn't give me confidence/ stresses me out that they're all compromised.

 

Maybe I can drill some extra holes in the shoe base, & put 4x thunderbolts in each shoe too. Washers for risers is a good idea.. thx.

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2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Maybe I can drill some extra holes in the shoe base, & put 4x thunderbolts in each shoe too.


Seriously don’t bother ..! You’ll be there for ages and achieve nothing ... once there is 8-1200kg if shed on the plinth, it’s going nowhere ..!!

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Well that's some reasurrance- but honestly the way the wind fires sideways at my extention end sat like a sitting duck, but on past into the channel my garden's in.. end of it the cabin, another sitting duck (with overhang roof facing it all).. it just has to be overengineered, by a heap.

 

Maybe I can use that bolt with a new nut on.. if it sticks again I'll leave it. Is the angle grinder ok to trim off the burrs with, on the top of the cut bolt? seemed ok for t'others.. but filing by hand is a pig of a job.

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