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Manifold of manifolds


Pocster

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14 minutes ago, Oz07 said:

@joe90 So you'd just turn off the whole manifold? Is it not preferable to isolate each run?

Take it you have a service valve before each tap etc?

 

Why?

 

No, apart from outside tap and washing machine I have no service valves. If I suffer a leaking tap washer, shower valve leak ETC it will take me a very short time to sort out. (I am retired,?) if something is likely to take time to sort out I can always fit a temporary blank at the manifold by de-mounting the pipe and using a plug.

Edited by joe90
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10 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

A thing of beauty.

How come the outside tap is coming off that? The O/S tap should come off either directly after, or even better, before the stopcock to the house. Tee-ing off there would be a huge drain on flow for the showers, but if it's not used much don't panic.

Didn’t think of that . Outside tap will hardly ever be used so i’ll Let it go ?

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Just now, pocster said:

Actually I could ‘throttle’ the outside tap ( planned to do this on toilets anyway ) by adjusting the isolator value to restrict flow .

 

Don't do it! As good as those HEP manifolds are they tend to hammer terribly if you restrict them. 

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18 minutes ago, Barney12 said:

 

Don't do it! As good as those HEP manifolds are they tend to hammer terribly if you restrict them. 

Really ? They generate that much noise if not fully open or fully closed ? . 

That was one of my reasons for choosing these nice expensive brass manifolds - thinking I could be clever and control flow ?

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On 15/10/2019 at 15:22, pocster said:

Actually I could ‘throttle’ the outside tap ( planned to do this on toilets anyway ) by adjusting the isolator value to restrict flow .

They become quite noisy if you do that. If you're going to strangle the flow then fit a restrictor in the outlet. Beware reducing the flow to WC's as they'll take forever to fill and get on your nerves when you flush the loo at night.

 

edit restrictor ( not reducer )

Edited by Nickfromwales
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3 minutes ago, pocster said:

Really ? They generate that much noise if not fully open or fully closed ? . 

That was one of my reasons for choosing these nice expensive brass manifolds - thinking I could be clever and control flow ?

Nope. On or off, isolators NOT attenuators ;) 

Flow restriction always at the outlet.

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3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Nope. On or off, isolators NOT attenuators ;) 

Flow restriction always at the outlet.

Ah ! So I have mid understood ! I assumed quite naturally they could do both I.e that was their function . Well attenuation at a outlet shouldn’t be an issue . For now i’ll Just stick ‘em all full on once ready for take off ! Boom ! - bet @Onoff took 6 months to do that bit ????

Edited by pocster
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32 minutes ago, pocster said:

Can I ask @Nickfromwales out of interest ; why attenuate at outlet not source ? . What’s the issue ? Or is it just bad practice?

Noise.

Ball valves sheer the flow of water and create a horrible 'rushing' noise, whereas fitting one of these at the outlet connection is near silent by comparison ;)

2 different definitions;

  1. Flow regulator / attenuator
  2. Isolation valve ( rotary / screw / lever ) 
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54 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Noise.

Ball valves sheer the flow of water and create a horrible 'rushing' noise, whereas fitting one of these at the outlet connection is near silent by comparison ;)

2 different definitions;

  1. Flow regulator / attenuator
  2. Isolation valve ( rotary / screw / lever ) 

Can’t you invent a noiseless flow regulator for at source? . Dragons Den will back you ??

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1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

?

You could introduce it at the manifold if you are happy to fit an inline coupler. Would be experimental though as it would be pre pipe resistance.

Ok, confusion reigns... 

Water flowing at full wallop all the way down the pipe, from the manifold to the outlet, then meets the restrictor and you can gauge the end flow rate pretty well. 

If you put the restriction at the source, eg the manifold, then you have a restricted flow at source and then it suffers further losses caused by the resistance of the pipe ( hydraulic dynamics iirc @PeterW ) and the number of twists and turns downstream, and that’s what I’m referring to as possibly problematic. 

Can be done at the manifold, but possibly a higher rated restrictor would he needed there vs one at the outlet in order to achieve the same result ;)  

Now can I finish my steak? 

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7 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

They become quite noisy if you do that. If you're going to strangle the flow then fit a reducer in the outlet. Beware reducing the flow to WC's as they'll take forever to fill and get on your nerves when you flush the loo at night.

never flush at night or else @ProDave  will hear it!!

Edited by Pete
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On 08/10/2019 at 16:03, pocster said:

Ok !

So to supply domestic hot and cold intend to bolt these together . I do love them ; brass and isolation valve - don’t like the price though !....

CE2C4998-F3E2-458E-95A4-C192A9BE4E86.jpeg

So where is the best place to purchase these at a keen price?

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One thing i’ve Noticed when I screw these guys together sometimes you can’t get them lined up I.e you can’t tighten it any further so have to loosen it to get alignment. I presume some plumbers tape on the thread beforehand is the answer ?

Equally the brass end cap has no rubber washer or anything. Tape again ???

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