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kill grass and weeds permanently


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2 hours ago, deuce22 said:

I need to spray around 500m2. Would 5l be enough?

In case it is not obvious, I will make it so.  This stuff is concentrated, you dilute it massively before use.  5L will last you a very long time and cover a large area.

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14 hours ago, ProDave said:

In case it is not obvious, I will make it so.  This stuff is concentrated, you dilute it massively before use.  5L will last you a very long time and cover a large area.

 

I use a hose end sprayer set to the right concentration. Means I don’t have to dilute anything. 

 

My 5l has lasted a few years. 

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18 hours ago, deuce22 said:

Hi.

 

My building plot is around 1/4 acre and I have cleared half of it, where I am going to be building. However grass and weeds have completely grown through again over the whole area. The mound that has been created from it is going to be used on the other area to level off where the garden will be. This also, is completely covered by weeds and grass.

I'd like to get some advice on the best way of permanently stop this from continuing to grow. 

 

Thanks.

Glyphosate.

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For all of these options, wear a mask with the correct filters fitted, gloves and long trousers and sleeves. Afterwards I would wash the clothes on there own on a long cold wash, and have a shower.

 

My brother was spraying weeds on the farm about 10 years ago, he had the jetpack sprayer on and was using the wand - he was ill for a week afterwards - it was too windy I think to have been spraying but there were jobs needing done and we did them.

 

 

Edited by Carrerahill
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14 minutes ago, Carrerahill said:

I have a 25Kg bucket of it - local farm suppliers has it.  Sodium Chloride 99.9%. 

 

Assuming you're talking about chlorate rather than chloride, drugs are banned too, but they're still available!

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51 minutes ago, jack said:

 

Assuming you're talking about chlorate rather than chloride, drugs are banned too, but they're still available!

Yes indeed! I have just edited it, someone said salt and I had salt on my mind, I have just checked what I have - Sodium CHLORATE! 99.9% 

 

I have a feeling it is old stock as the buckets have some fairly dated looked labels on them. It's bloody good stuff - I use it very carefully and only in certain situations. 

 

 

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22 hours ago, deuce22 said:

I'd like to get some advice on the best way of permanently stop this from continuing to grow. 

 

It's worth pointing out that Glyphosate doesn't stop stuff growing permanently. It stops the stuff that's there permanently (i.e., kills it) but is specifically designed to degrade in the soil so allowing replacement plants, of the same or different types, to grow in place.

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1 hour ago, Ed Davies said:

but is specifically designed to degrade in the soil so allowing replacement plants, of the same or different types, to grow in place.

 

More’s the pity! Bloody weeds in pea shingle are the bane of my life during the summer! 

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3 minutes ago, newhome said:

 

More’s the pity! Bloody weeds in pea shingle are the bane of my life during the summer! 

 

Did you not have a weed membrane under the shingle?, a lot of people think the membrane for stopping gravel mixing with soil is the same, but it’s not, ask me how I know ? 

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6 minutes ago, newhome said:

 

Bloody weeds in pea shingle are the bane of my life during the summer! 

I put strips of an old jute-backed axminster carpet under the gravel on the pathway.  Estimated time to biodegrade = approx. 12 months.  Still no sign of weeds 10 years later. Must have been a bloody good woollen carpet :))

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13 minutes ago, Gow said:

I put strips of an old jute-backed axminster carpet under the gravel on the pathway.  Estimated time to biodegrade = approx. 12 months.  Still no sign of weeds 10 years later. Must have been a bloody good woollen carpet :))

 

Bob flowerjew on a gardening programme years ago recommended old carpet fir weed suppression.

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remember the best effect is got by doing it on a dry day so folaiage sucks it in --then  in 2-3 weeks it will be dead to the roots 

now is the right time to do  bracken ---maybe just a touch late  as they are begining to go brown and sucking nutrients back into the roots . waste of time doing it on a damp day  

the right stuff will kill small trees and scrub bushs as well-could be too late for this year for small trees --leaves beginning to drop .

I made a blunder last time i treated the paths and drive --i walked over the lawn  unbeknown to me --I had it on my footwear --got a nice set of footprints across the lawn now .LOL

 

it will grow back next year 

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I have bought some 360 glyphosate and a backpack sprayer. I have a half mask respirator, but I'm unsure if it has the correct filters, what should I be getting to not breath this stuff in? Should I also be staying away from it for a bit and keeping the dog away?

 

Thanks.

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32 minutes ago, deuce22 said:

I have bought some 360 glyphosate and a backpack sprayer. I have a half mask respirator, but I'm unsure if it has the correct filters, what should I be getting to not breath this stuff in? Should I also be staying away from it for a bit and keeping the dog away?

 

Thanks.

 

You need a P3 respirator or an equivalent to the 3M 6001 filters. 

Animals must be kept away until the product is completed dry, at least 24 hours. 

Personally I would not let my pet near it for 2-3 days but I’m very sensitive to the subject after loosing a dog to poisoning by a farmer using illegal pesticides (another story for another day).

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You shouldn't need a respirator, but a face shield for handling concentrate is good practice.  If you've got glyphosate mist floating around, the pressure is too high or the nozzle too small. It should be a fine spray, but with a big enough droplet size to make sure it goes where you point it and avoid drift.  Try the sprayer out with just water in it first to get a feel for it.

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Thanks for sharing your experience (even though it's terrible). I will definitely be wearing a respirator as the man i bought the plot off had cancer a couple of years ago. He has been spraying glyphosate on this plot for the last 15 years and believes it was from that stuff.

I'll keep my dog off it for as long as I can.

 

Thanks.

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15 hours ago, newhome said:

 

More’s the pity! Bloody weeds in pea shingle are the bane of my life during the summer! 

you  need a nice american to bomb your pea gravel with agent orange --still not growing back in veitnam   on parts of the ho chi minh trail  LOL

 but seriously what  locals used round here for garden paths ,till forestry commission stopped them was the waste from old lead/silver  mines -- not sure how good it was for the vegs they grew next to it --but nothing grows on a layer of that . there plies of it onside of the forest roads where there mines and it looks like it was piled  up yesterday - FC used to use it for roads ,but think  SEPA stopped them 

  most grand country houses round here had a layer of that then white granite chips -- looked good --told the dogs if somone was creeping up on the house at night  + no weeds 

 

Edited by scottishjohn
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  • 4 months later...

As a footnote folks please remember to cover up and use a proper p3 mask when handling weedkillers and stuff. I've just had 5 years of treatment for bladder cancer, I don't smoke & don't drink but as a french polish and  renovator I've perhaps been exposed more than I should. Always put your health first.

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  • 2 months later...

(Yanks thread back from Stovokor)


Can anyone advise on the appropriate concentration of Glyphosate for english ivy?

 

I cut it back with shears about 6 weeks ago, and it is now covered in thirsty young leaves.

 

I have my Glyphosate 360, and I can look out mum's dedicated weedkiller sprayer.

 

A normal dilution will be 20ml/l (according to JSH above). What about for ivy - or will I just need to rely on 2 or 3 applications?

 

Cheers

 

Ferdinand

 

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Ivy is a PITA, as the leaves are waxy, so the stuff tends not to wet them very well, which in turn means it's less effective.  There is usually a small amount of detergent in glyphosate, to help get around this problem, but I found that adding a squirt of washing up liquid helped a bit.  It worked at our old place, where I needed to kill off a fairly large area of overgrown ivy, but it did take two or three applications, spread apart by a few weeks, to be effective.

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I'd go 24ml/litre, and yes, it will probably take multiple applications.  I've had most sucess cutting the woody stems to just above ground level and painting the freshly cut ends with a 20% solution. Incidentally, I've just gone over a trial patch of ivy I want to keep with a 1/4 dose to try and take out the grass weeds in it; I don't expect the ivy to take much harm...

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There is actually little point in spraying ivy. The steams and leaves etc are still there after they are dead and still need removing, only they are even more dusty. Youve really got to rip the stems off. If its on a flat wall you can use a wallpaper scraper etc.

 

Once you are left with just a stump you can kill it off for good.

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