sphannaby Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Hello all, I know like me a lot of the ebuild regulars managed to get a deal on the Kingspan/Mitsi MVHR units. I'm about to complete 1st fix on mine and was wondering how people went with the control of these from remote locations? I tried to keep an eye out for the 'official' controllers but there have been none for sale anywhere (i think Joe90 got the last one that was on ebay). Anyway I came up with a few possibilites but for now I have just made sure I have ran plenty of cable to the correct places to cover me should things change. What I probably will do is use a standard single gang back box and have a blank plate which I will drill out to take a rotary switch and some rockers (purchased from Farnell). For the boost areas I am think of using intermediate lighting switches and have one pole for my lighting circuit and the spare pole as a volt free contact for MVHR, another option for this is some battery powered time delay switches I have found which have a set of volt free contacts but this means another switch in WC, utility, etc and things could start to get a bit cluttered. All wiring is going back to a junction box next to the MVHR to allow for paralleling if needed and future expansion. I'd be interested to see how some of the others have done it and how they have found it in real life. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Which model is it..? There are a couple of units on currently - PZ-60DRE and PZ-61DRE I think are the models The 61 is all singing and dancing, the 60 is a high / low / bypass one but they are only compatible with certain age units. If you let me know the model I can pull out the wiring spec but basically there is a 5 pin socket on the board that takes an standard pitch connector. You earth certain pins to do stuff such as speed change and bypass. I did a really simple wiring diagram but its at home and I'm in London ! I've got a simple humidistat from the bay - about £8 from HK and will use that to drive the boost in parallel to the switching and controller as the on board wiring overrides everything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Would love to see that wiring diagram please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sphannaby Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 Hi again guys, apologies for not getting back sooner but I've had a hectic month which included a holiday, some frantic work in the house to finish 1st fix and then a nice bout of food poisoning! Anyway back on topic. The MVHR model which I have (and believe many from ebuild also go) was the Mitsibushi LGH-50RSDCE From what I gathered I thought the PZ-60 and PZ-61 were only suitable for the RX5 series of Mitsi MVHR as these controllers use a 2wire communication whereas the 50RSDCE model that I have just has dry contacts for the control signals. Unless what you are saying is that it is possible to add a 5 pin socket to the 60 or 61 which offers the dry contact functions. If this was the case that would be perfect and if thats what you have a wiring diagram of Peter it would be greatly appreciated if you could share. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Can you take the cover off the main control box and take a photo of the board ..?? I can tell you which connections are which from that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sphannaby Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 2 hours ago, PeterW said: Can you take the cover off the main control box and take a photo of the board ..?? I can tell you which connections are which from that. I am away with work at the minute so can't get a picture but I've took an exert from the manual which shows how the 50RSDCE is supposed to be wired. As you will see the TM2 and TM3 are the terminals for speed selection and bypass mode, these are just dry contats but have to share the same common so I'm not sure how the PZ-60 could work with this as it only has a 2 wire communication cable for all signals from what I can gather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Ok this is pretty simple - look at TM2 and TM3 and you can control most things. The common needs to connect to one or more of the speed pins - these are NO volt free contacts. If you connect TM3 PB to ground then it opens the summer bypass Not sure what logic it applies to seeing ground on more than one speed pin. You can control the boost switching at what level by just choosing which pairs you use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sphannaby Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 3 minutes ago, PeterW said: Ok this is pretty simple - look at TM2 and TM3 and you can control most things. The common needs to connect to one or more of the speed pins - these are NO volt free contacts. If you connect TM3 PB to ground then it opens the summer bypass Not sure what logic it applies to seeing ground on more than one speed pin. You can control the boost switching at what level by just choosing which pairs you use Yeah I've got all that figured but I will just have to use some home made switches rather than something like the PZ-60 as from what I can see about the PZ-60 there is no way to get a volt free signal from the PZ-60. I don't really have an issue with this but it would be much neater if I could have used something like the PZ-60. For the logic with having ground on more than one pin it just uses the highest speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 OK so looks like these are much simpler than their commercial cousins in operation from the manual - I had expected they had the 2 wire connector but obviously not ! Ideal for integration with something like a PIC or Arduino based solution but not for interfacing with an off the shelf controller. http://planetaklimata.com.ua/instr/Mitsubishi_Electric/Mitsubishi_Electric_LGH-50RSDC-E_User_Manual_D_Eng.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexphd1 Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 How are you guys getting on with the mitsubishi units? Any problems ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 As I have been fighting planners for two and a half years mine is still in the cointainer ?, but brickwork is going up so watch this space ( next year) ☺️. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 (edited) Mine is waiting for eBay, as decided in the end to get a newer unit from BPC instead. Any one after a (very) Mvhr unit? Edited October 29, 2016 by readiescards Spellings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 3 hours ago, readiescards said: Mine is waiting for eBay, as decided in the end to get a newer unit from BPC instead. Any one after a (very) Mvhr unit? Refresh my memory with it's specifications, size, weight, power consumption and ventilation rates (size of building it will ventilate) And where you are and how much you want? Probably best to start a new post int he for sale section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexphd1 Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Why have you decided to replace your unit with one from bpc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
readiescards Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 Selling as decided to get full system from BPC Ventilation so I could be sure of having a 'designed' system to show to BC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Does anyone have the full instruction manual for the kingspan units? And a simple question, which air port is which, they are labeled EA, OA, SA etc but none of those make any sense to me except perhaps EA is Exhaust air? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 29 minutes ago, ProDave said: Does anyone have the full instruction manual for the kingspan units? And a simple question, which air port is which, they are labeled EA, OA, SA etc but none of those make any sense to me except perhaps EA is Exhaust air? RA return air SA supply air OA outside air EA exhaust air http://www.mitsubishitech.co.uk/Data/Lossnay/LGH-RS/2013/LGH-50RSDC-E1/LGH-50RSDC-E1_IM.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Ah, I hadn't appreciated the Misubishi unit and the Kingspan unit were one and the same. I have offered it up into position and it works out a bit awkward. It is fitting into the loft space above the garage, and to get inside and outside ports the right way round ends up with the filter access being in towards the eaves of the loft space. so I have to leave rom to get behind it, down in the low part of the loft to withdraw the filters. Oh how much more convenient it wold be if the filters were on the other side. Lateral thinking mode. What if I put it "upside down" that would put the filter facing out into the loft and would mean I could put it closer into the eaves. It's only a fan after all, I can't believe that would object to running upside down? Or is that just plan daft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sphannaby Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 You can change the position of the OA and EA spigots. Its only 4 screws which hold them in place and you just swap with the corresponding blanking plate You only get to move them by 90 degrees but this may help. Its a beast of a unit and I had to move the OA to give me a decent chance of getting in at the filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 21 hours ago, ProDave said: Ah, I hadn't appreciated the Misubishi unit and the Kingspan unit were one and the same. I have offered it up into position and it works out a bit awkward. It is fitting into the loft space above the garage, and to get inside and outside ports the right way round ends up with the filter access being in towards the eaves of the loft space. so I have to leave rom to get behind it, down in the low part of the loft to withdraw the filters. Oh how much more convenient it wold be if the filters were on the other side. Lateral thinking mode. What if I put it "upside down" that would put the filter facing out into the loft and would mean I could put it closer into the eaves. It's only a fan after all, I can't believe that would object to running upside down? Or is that just plan daft? They have to be either horizontal or stood on one edge IIRC from the installation - nothing stopping them being upside down ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 I think I will put a lead on and power it up. then turn it upside down and see if it makes any funny noises. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 I have done the "upside down" test this morning first picture shows how it would have to go the "right way up" leaving just enough space to withdraw the filters while crouching down right in the eaves. The second picture is with it "upside down" that will enable me to push it almost tight into the eaves and you will access the filters from the outside edge. It makes no strange noises when upside down, the fans run just as they do the right way up, anf the bypass flap also operates correctly upside down. Next question. How are you all mounting these? the manual seems to major on hanging it frm the ceiling via threaded rod to the 4 lugs. That would be very hard to do in this location. I am thinking of still trying to support it from the 4 lugs but on some kind of anti vibration mount? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 I had ( in theory only) decided to hang mine from the roofing to disconnect completely from the floor/ceiling any kind of noise/vibration. I know the rods may be intrusive but worth it if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 So I spoke to my brother about anti vibration mounts for stuff as he does a lot of heavy machinery that also has sensitive control systems and the advice was always couple something light to something heavy.... To reduce the harmonics, the best way is to ensure whatever you connect to can't move easily. So an anti vibration mount needs something heavy and dense such as a paving slab. This - or chunks of it - can then be stood on the joists as the concrete dampens the ability for sound to travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 If anyone is interested I have been doing some measurements. When i powered it up in "fan speed 1" for my upside down test, I was surprised how noisy it was and how much air it was pushing out. now as a simple guy, I had expected speed 1 to be the slowest. Don't be silly. Speed 1 is the fastest speed. Also the one I have appears only to have 4 speeds available. So power consumption measurements: Speed 4 = 0.2A = 49W Speed 3 = 0.5A = 122W Speed 2 = 1.1A = 269W Speed 1 = 1.7A = 416W Obviously I will be delighted if speed 4 is sufficient for trickle ventilation but I won't know that until very much later on when the house is sealed and it's all ducted up and flow rate measurements done. Another point is according the the manual SW2 should give you the ability to increase or decrease the motor power, but on my unit SW2 is not fitted, though the pcb has the pads and silk screen labeling for it. On speed 4, the slowest, it is whisper quiet. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now