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understanding ground floor build-up


redtop

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below is the BC drawing submitted by the architect.  The building is on steel posts (connected to pile foundations) raised of the ground with steel beams forming the ground floor sub-structure.  Now, the SEs drawings show the beams being supported by the posts, as you would expect but the architects drawings dont seem to connect the steel post to the beam.  Am i missing something...

 

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I would be more worried that they have used a timber hanger on the roof to steel connection and not supported it on its full depth. I’m not aware of any hangers that will work without a fully supported end bearing. 

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59 minutes ago, the_r_sole said:

the section doesn't go through the post so you don't see that detail in this section?

yes but even if it did it woudl then rest on the wood that sits below the joist.  Surely cant be right?

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48 minutes ago, PeterW said:

I would be more worried that they have used a timber hanger on the roof to steel connection and not supported it on its full depth. I’m not aware of any hangers that will work without a fully supported end bearing. 

agree, that isnt right either

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Very strange having a Pozi joist ground floor. How do you get access to fix the non-combustible board? Also, fitting 150mm rigid PIR insulation between Pozis is near impossible.

 

Can you not do beam and block or concrete hollowcore instead?

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50 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

Very strange having a Pozi joist ground floor. How do you get access to fix the non-combustible board? Also, fitting 150mm rigid PIR insulation between Pozis is near impossible.

 

Can you not do beam and block or concrete hollowcore instead?

i asked about that and cant remember why i couldnt... May need to go back to SE when he returns from extended holidays.  I think beam and block was weight but also ease of getting materials on site.  All the steels are short so easily manhandled, anything requiring a crane is out although a small tele-handler can get onto the site.  re access the whole floor is lifted of the ground so i could (just) get under to fix the board.  Once first 'course' was in (at the 'uphill' end of the build) the others would be easy

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I note the cladding battens are 25*38. If the cladding is going to be nailed on I would go for bigger horizontal battens as with smaller battens it can be like trying to hammer a nail into a spring. Also take a look at some of the guides for cladding online. They normally recommend fixings are 1" from the end of a plank at a join. So that's 2" between nails but the batten is only 38mm wide. You might be able to avoid joins or use two battens or short blocks where there will be joins but it needs some planning ahead.

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