Jump to content

Connecting water tanks to 32mm MDPE pipe


Cpd

Recommended Posts

I have got my two new water tanks, one 2500l and the other 1250l 

i also have my 32mm pipe, uv filter and particle filters

i just need to order the pipe fittings and I will be ready to put it all together next week. 

 

i have been looking online     https://www.pipestock.com/mdpe/mdpe-pipe-fittings/female-adaptor  but am struggling to understand what part I am after to join the 2 inch male threaded tank outlet to my 32mm mdpe pipe. 

 

Can someone in the know help..... 

 

Thanks. Col 

F9BDC1E0-AC2F-49C0-9063-52BA7132F455.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will need to step the 2" BSPM outlet down to within the range of MDPE connectors.  The biggest female 32mm MDPE fitting is 1" BSPF, so one way to do it would be to use a 2" to 1 1/2" BSPF reducing socket, then a 1 1/2" to 1" BSPM reducing nipple, then a 32mm MDPE to 1" BSPF female adapter.

 

The polyprop adapters are here: https://www.pipestock.com/mdpe/pp-threaded-fittings

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@PeterW The first smaller tank will be predominantly for settlement of very fine particles, this occurs after a drought and then very heavy rainfall, it’s really minimal but I want to try and save the filters as much as possible. The tanks will be connected at the top, I will have to raise the smaller of the two tanks 50mm as I assumed they were the same height but they were not....... this should be easy as I have prepared a very good base, really solid shale / clay base some pea gravel, geo textile and a bit of sand. I think I will just lay a bunch of 50mm slabs under the tank. 

The overflow will run into a small tank and from there I will tap it back into the old 25mm pipe work and use it for garden watering.  the final  overflow will go into my existing pond. 

There will be a purge tap on the smaller tank so that I can give it a good clean once a year to get rid of any sediment, i will try and design the inflow to be piped 3/4 of the way down with a diffusion plate to stop the incoming water disturbing the bottom of the tank. Have a look and see what you think of my plan, would be great to hear of any improvements that can be made. 

 

I will I’ll need to support some of the pipework on a wooden frame 

2A269703-35CF-411A-8DA7-B7068DD2154D.jpeg

C5AA2E15-08D6-469E-B39A-66EF6B1EAD7D.jpeg

87B81F47-AC54-4A6C-903F-B5C1AE198354.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks good - using 32mm MDPE to join everything together too ..??

 

Just as a thought, that join between the two ranks may be better done in 110mm as you can get decent flanges and also get your hand inside to hold the back plates on ..!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, PeterW said:

using 32mm MDPE to join everything together too ..??

Yes 32mm throughout except joining the tanks......I was intending to use two 25mm tank boss  and connect on the flat as shown on this photo, is this ok ? There is 8000 litres of water running through the tanks every 24 hrs at a minimum so I assumed that a small connection between the tanks would be ok. The reason for the small connections is due to space as the flats are only   50mm high on the big tank and 80mm high on the smaller tank. I will need to check the specification of the tank boss before I order to make sure it will work. I assumed that the inlets and connections should be as high up the tanks as one can get.....  i am able (I think from my caving days) to actually climb into the tanks, so access is not a problem..... getting out may be more fun. 

61CAA183-0F8C-467E-974B-EF98D064D0CB.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could just use a 25mm/1” Male MDPE with a back nut if you can get inside but my worry would be the connection is right at the top so you have no air space nor any surge space. A 25mm pipe won’t push that much water quickly through so I’d try and have the largest pipe possible. 

 

Look for Koi carp pond fittings - they are done to fit all sorts of tanks and they will also allow you to use bigger bore pipes. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, PeterW said:

my worry would be the connection is right at the top so you have no air space nor any surge space. A 25mm pipe won’t push that much water quickly through so I’d try and have the largest pipe possible. 

Good point I will investigate further, thanks 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Managed to rejig various bits to keep the inflow and overflow 32mm, past experience would indicate that the existing tank with 25mm inlet outlet has never suffered from overflow / surge problems so by upping to 32mm I should be fine. The spring is very stable and produces a very steady 8500 litres every 24 hrs, after a seven week drought this dropped to 5000 litres. Have now got all the filters and UV and have just dropped an order for pipe fitting.  next job will be to build a wall mounted box that can house everything on the outside if the shed and then start digging in pipe........ by hand !  

03DBBB1C-A011-43AE-80BA-6FF0DEB9428D.jpeg

0B12EA33-3F17-4C67-A76B-7CBD982F562C.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A tip when installing the UV disinfection unit.  Make sure there is lots of room at the end so that the lamp can be pulled out and replaced.  I forgot the first time I installed ours and only discovered the problem a year later when I found I couldn't get the lamp out for its annual replacement.  It needed a fair bit of plumbing rework to make enough space.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

A tip when installing the UV disinfection unit.  Make sure there is lots of room at the end so that the lamp can be pulled out and replaced.  I forgot the first time I installed ours and only discovered the problem a year later when I found I couldn't get the lamp out for its annual replacement.  It needed a fair bit of plumbing rework to make enough space.

 

OMG your right and I had already overlooked this...... shizzer ! I had everything laid out on the table and worked out the size of box to build.... you have just saved me an awful lot of pain. THANKS ! I will now have to go and relook at my preferred site and see if it will work.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 17/06/2019 at 19:13, Cpd said:

 

OMG your right and I had already overlooked this...... shizzer ! I had everything laid out on the table and worked out the size of box to build.... you have just saved me an awful lot of pain. THANKS ! I will now have to go and relook at my preferred site and see if it will work.

 

Just a thought if you haven't already done this - you could always hole saw a hole in the correct place to allow you to pull the tube and then just screw a plate on the outside to cover the hole..?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Just a thought if you haven't already done this - you could always hole saw a hole in the correct place to allow you to pull the tube and then just screw a plate on the outside to cover the hole..?

 Our minds think alike, due to its position it needs to come out of the top, the box I am building sits below the roof of the shed, I have moved the box far enough away that if i build a small section of removable lid I can extract the bulb, ........ I have not put the gutters on the shed roof yet and only now realise that I did all my measurements to the edge of the tin roof..... ,, FFS ! I better remember this tomorrow morning ! 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got my wall pointed (well the bit for the box) and my fixing points for the back board (dukes.....?) just got to work out how deep to make the box, it will be about 1.5 meters wide to accommodate all the bits and bobs and I am going to line it with 25mm Calotex and try and build in a low wattage heater I have lying around. The idea of the heater will be to wire it into  a switch or something that will only come on if the temp drops below a certain point.... any ideas ? Ok that’s as far as I can go today as other tasks need to be dealt with.  The back board is solid core shower board, a reject from a builders merchant that I have in stock, the front and sides will be like the existing cladding. 

CB3F0BAD-ED4F-4297-956D-92943E797281.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...