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Marking screed


Pocster

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Hey all

 

A nice simple question !

Once I had got all the ufh pipes in I attached zip ties at strategic points to stick up through the screed .

Undoubtedly these zip ties will eventually snap . As it’s a sand / cement screed can I just paint lines with paint ? . I don’t want to put something on the dried screed that will prevent / mess up the tile adhesive .

Some photos of pipes !!

 

screeders there today . “ we won’t block the lane mate “ .... ??

2BE3A8CD-E307-4929-8527-CD0458EACA37.jpeg

FA4D22F6-918C-4B6A-A1C8-681E859A0C03.jpeg

AF95452F-9531-467B-87B6-5E64CCA0A6D1.jpeg

0661EAE1-3434-4872-AF5F-4EA414B433E5.jpeg

Edited by pocster
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I can never work out why UFH pipe runs always have a very congested hot 'corridor'.  In your second pic there seems to be 7 pipes in 600mm.  It looks possible to alter the design quite easily but maybe nobody can be bothered.

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44 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

I can never work out why UFH pipe runs always have a very congested hot 'corridor'.  In your second pic there seems to be 7 pipes in 600mm.  It looks possible to alter the design quite easily but maybe nobody can be bothered.

Erm ; all covered in screed now .?

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42 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

I can never work out why UFH pipe runs always have a very congested hot 'corridor'.  In your second pic there seems to be 7 pipes in 600mm.  It looks possible to alter the design quite easily but maybe nobody can be bothered.

 

Ours was designed with all pipes in doorways and I asked on here why I could not run pipes through walls to save hot spots, reaction was why not. It saved mtrs  of pipe runs, I ran pipes in insulation through the walls and it made it easier to install.

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6 minutes ago, joe90 said:

 

Ours was designed with all pipes in doorways and I asked on here why I could not run pipes through walls to save hot spots, reaction was why not. It saved mtrs  of pipe runs, I ran pipes in insulation through the walls and it made it easier to install.

That area is I think 3 zones . So it’s the return / flow for each zone . Needless to say this was the supplied design .

 

Actually I got that wrong . That ‘clump’ of pipes are running back to the manifold which was behind me .

Edited by pocster
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8 minutes ago, Conor said:

Noob question, why do you need to mark on the pipe locations? Are you planning on drilling in to the screed at some point?

 

You haven't been here long, he's got a serious aversion to leaks.

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22 minutes ago, pocster said:

That area is I think 3 zones .

 

Yes, mine was flow and return pipes for multiple zones to/from the manifold but easier to drill the walls and run more direct.

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1 hour ago, Conor said:

Noob question, why do you need to mark on the pipe locations? Are you planning on drilling in to the screed at some point?

Well !

 

My future staircase might land somewhere and need bolting to the floor . Built in wardrobes might need a floor fixing . Kitchen units probably won’t but nice to know where the pipes are . 

You never know !!!! 

Edited by pocster
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Friend had the foresight to work out where the post for his staircase would be and left pipes clear of the area to bolt that. Then there was a change of plan (something to do with BC being unhappy with the escape from a mezzanine  area which wasn't a bedroom but which some future occupant might conceivably use as a bedroom, IIRC) so that the stairs had to be changed.. It'd have saved a lot of worry to know where the pipes actually were when it came to drilling where they were only 90% sure they weren't.

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14 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

What can be done to repair a pipe once it is drilled though.

Or how easy is it to repair a broken UFH pipe.

 

dig it up cut it and install a straight coupling, ask me how i know this 9_9

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16 hours ago, pocster said:

Well !

 

My future staircase might land somewhere and need bolting to the floor . Built in wardrobes might need a floor fixing . Kitchen units probably won’t but nice to know where the pipes are . 

You never know !!!! 

You could have taken a load of photos and used augmented reality app! So obvious....

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13 hours ago, Ed Davies said:

Friend had the foresight to work out where the post for his staircase would be and left pipes clear of the area to bolt that. Then there was a change of plan (something to do with BC being unhappy with the escape from a mezzanine  area which wasn't a bedroom but which some future occupant might conceivably use as a bedroom, IIRC) so that the stairs had to be changed.. It'd have saved a lot of worry to know where the pipes actually were when it came to drilling where they were only 90% sure they weren't.

In our last build we designed the en-suite for a 900mm square shower tray and left the space underneath free of UFH.

 

Of course we fitted a 1200 by 900 shower instead, and when cutting the hole in the floor for the trap, it took a few seconds to understand what was causing the pretty little fountain that started coming out of the floor.

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19 minutes ago, Hobbiniho said:

dig it up cut it and install a straight coupling, ask me how i know this 9_9

 

Ditto. My poor electrician was given 10 mins to install a protective steel plate over a cable for a floorbox before a concrete screed layer (to be polished) was poured. He put in four screws, and the drilling for two of them went straight through a UFH pipe. We didn't find out for something like 6 months, when we woke up to find the floorbox full of water and a puddle just starting to spread from the centre of the room towards the walls!

 

Dug it out and used two straight couplings to patch in a loop of spare UFH pipe. 

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22 minutes ago, Hobbiniho said:

ask me how i know this

Is it one of those jobs that is a pain in the arse, but relatively easy, or one that is a PITA and difficult.

I would think the second as you have to make sure that you do not damage anymore pipe and then the cleanup of said pipe has to be done well.

Would it be possible to mark up the floor with a felt tip pen where the pipes are.  If you use a good one, nice and fat and inky, it should still be visible after after any tiling has been removed.

No good if it is a polished concrete floor.

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1 minute ago, SteamyTea said:

Is it one of those jobs that is a pain in the arse, but relatively easy, or one that is a PITA and difficult.

I would think the second as you have to make sure that you do not damage anymore pipe and then the cleanup of said pipe has to be done well.

Would it be possible to mark up the floor with a felt tip pen where the pipes are.  If you use a good one, nice and fat and inky, it should still be visible after after any tiling has been removed.

No good if it is a polished concrete floor.

 

yes complete pain in the arse but easy enough, in my case i was a first year apprentice joiner (back in 2006) i was given the job of fixing door stops to the floor the day before handover of a house 9_9, we needed to remove skirtings, lift the laminate flooring, lift the chipboard flooring dig up the biscuit screed, then had to wait a week for the couplings to arrive, my supervisor wasnt impressed xD it would be a lot more difficult in concrete as you would need to make sure you dont damage the pipe when digging it up

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39 minutes ago, Conor said:

You could have taken a load of photos and used augmented reality app! So obvious....

Lol

i did take loads of photos with a tape measure in the floor - just in case said plan fails 

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11 minutes ago, pocster said:

Here yo go @Onoff 

cant walk on it . But looks spot on !

 

Shame every trade busts my architecturally eclectic staircase ! . They must all be fatter than me .

 

 

 

E29EB4DA-7BBD-490B-AF36-6C8D5B2AE2F5.jpeg

 

 

 

Building control are going to love that staircase!  ?

 

 

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4 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Probably best not to call your BC Officer fat.

BC ?

They are a joke . Once the timber frame was up I called them to look . I ask when I should call them next - her answer “ when it’s finished “ . Perhaps it’s such a perfect job no one needs to inspect- or perhaps they are lazy ....

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