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Any ideas how to insulate my Velux windows? The ceilings below are horizontal with vaulted shafts for the Velux. The bathroom Velux is especially bad. Ignore the orange box attached to bathroom Velux - it's a digital shower processor no longer there Cover what's there with more PIR sheets and tape joins? Would air gaps pose a problem for interstitial condensation? Rip off PIR and start again? Other materials? What thickness of insulation (I know this will depend on thermal conductivity). Thank you.

Hi, I wanted to see if anyone else has had the same issue as me on new electric blackout blinds (that are official Velux branded ones so not a third party brand). Due to how long my self build took the electric blinds have been in storage for a few years now and therefore out of warranty annoyingly but both have never ever worked - no life whatsoever. Electric has been tested inside the unit itself and it's definitely receiving a live feed. The electric Velux window itself works fine opening/closing etc. On the blind it has a reset switch to try and rematch the remote control to it (which is what i had to do with the window remotes) but I have a feeling it's the reset button itself that the problem may lie. It switches so freely loose on both blinds that it's almost as if it's not even connected to anything internally so it does nothing to reset like you would expect. It doesn't click or lock into place if that makes sense - it almost falls off it's so loose. I wasn't sure if that's normal on all of them? I don't know if I received a faulty batch, it just seems odd that both are doing exactly the same thing.

I’m thinking of adding two (or maybe four?) triple-glazed roof lights to my small building refurbishment. Nothing fancy or large, maybe 600mm x 900mm in size. It’s a small space (32msq) in the Outer Hebrides, so solar gain would probably be a benefit 🤣 I want them to finish flush to the pitched roof (not stand proud or be protruding) to avoid wind noise. They don’t need to be opening, as it's a single-volume space with lower windows. I know Velux have a widely recognisable brand name, but are they the best company/windows to use, or are there other companies I should also be considering?

I find myself confused by the Scottish rules for escape skylights. I have read them several times, along with similar summaries and it is not clear. Have asked others to read it and get different interpretations. Also surprised that the manufacturers don't say more about it. This is for a conversion to dwelling with 2 bedrooms upstairs and a stair midway between the rooms and down into an open plan room. What I think is required is this, but this is more interpretation of the intent, than what the words say. If there is a protected stair, then an upper room leading directly to it does not need a fire escape window. If there is a secondary room off that first room, then that extra room does need an escape window. If the stair is not fire protected, ie open plan either at first or ground floor, then a fire escape window/skylight is required in each room. ie the upstairs rooms need an escape window each. I am also assuming that a 'protected stair' is fireproof with self closing fire doors, ie not suitable for domestic.

Hello everyone, I would really like some advice regarding the quality of work we have just received from a roofing company contracted by the builder carrying out our single storey extension. I am not in the industry, but having seen the work I feel it is not to a good standard. We are speaking to the builder about it later this morning and I would just really like to be armed with other people's opinions before confronting the builder. My main concerns are the strange plastic verge edging along the main edges of the roof and the tiling around the Velux windows. Should there be a gap that big between the tiles and the Velux? Any help would be really appreciated. Thank you. David Scott

Hi everyone! I would like some advice please if possible - I have had a roofer to complete a job where he has fitted 3 Velux windows but did not follow the manufacturer's instructions e.g. not fitted rain gutter, didn't frame the window in batten, didn't put in vapour barrier, didn't follow the steps on fitting the felt, etc. He's also fitted the surrounding roof tiles and a rubberised flat roof above the Velux, and I'm concerned if any of this leaks, the windows could be damaged and need replacing as I assume the gutter is to protect the Velux in future from other leaks that might happen? He is insisting these steps in the instructions and bits from the BDX kit aren't needed and to quote him "the windows will be fine and won't leak as I've never had a problem before". He is asking I pay him in full immediately, even though the work was done only a few days ago. What should I do? Any advice would be great - where do I stand and is he right about the gutters, etc not being needed? If so, I'll gladly pay him as requested. Thanks in advance for any help provided.

Hello, We’ve recently had a loft conversion and originally we were going to keep the old roof and tiles but they suggested we had new batons and felt for extra 2k to make it watertight. We agreed to this but if you look in the pictures the roof seems to bow inwards? They said they have corrected it and done what they needed to do but to me it still doesn’t look right - please advise?

For long lasting quality and superior finish who is the best? I’ve heard Keylite have to be thrown into the mix as well. I’ve researched this a lot online and speaking to various people with very mixed results. From what I gather(not 100% if this is all true or not though) Velux holds the market with approx 60% with Fakro and Keylite taking around 10%. I gather Velux used to have the patent(or exclusivity at least) on various aspects of their design and build but when a few of these expired Fakro and Keylite were created and decided to copy and create their own versions. It sounds like Velux’s handle and catch opening system is one of the last remaining patents they have left and the best one on the market. Both manufacture Conservation rooflights with the vertical glazing bars which is what I was specifically after but only Fakro do them in triple glazing option annoyingly. I’ve read that Fakro are far superior and more expensive but then I’ve read that Velux are now a lot more expensive and the much better luxury end product. Which is it? Both provide pretty decent warranty’s approx 10 years. I’ve read that both have issues with electrics, especially Velux. But they use slightly different technology with Fakro using Z Wave which can be more reliable for multiple windows on one remote etc. I guess my question is, based on your own experience, who is the best one to go with? I need conservation style rooflights with triple glazing and good thermal and acoustic insulation as well as electric opening/closing. Velux do what they call “Best Experience”(67 pane) triple glazing option for optimum thermal and noise reduction which is perfect. This doesn’t come in conservation style so I would have to add the glazing bars. Fakro do a P5 triple glazed conservation window at a slightly lower price. I cannot decide which to go for to be honest but want the one which going to last the longest and not have any issues or problems.

I was about to order my rooflights (I’m going for a mix of GlassSquad, Velux and Sunsquare) when I noticed that Velux brought out a new catalogue a couple of days ago. I’ve had a quick flick through it, but can’t see that anything is particularly different. Has anyone noticed any differences or is it just marketing spin? Appreciate this must seem like major FOMO (and it is!) but just want to make sure I haven’t missed something revolutionary.

I have 3 Velux Integra rooflights that have just been installed. Two work fine but one is playing up. It seems to struggle to move and makes more noise than the others. When I disconnect the chain I can easily swing the motor on the good ones but the bad one seems like it’s stuck to the wiring block. See videos attached. IMG_0070.MOV IMG_0069.MOV

So I did a full reroof recently. The damage we were getting was back so we decided to go with the only company operating during lockdown... this is a picture of the back of the house. There is a slope between the joint that they put to separate my house and my neighbours and the slates don’t sit flat on top of each other. More noticeable is the slates around the Velux window. I didn’t give it any importance initially but it just Doesn’t sit right with me. Should I call the roofer back?

Hello, I am planning to replace the roof windows in a 20-year-old house. There are two windows in the bedroom and one in the bathroom, all oriented to the east.I plan use the windows 78 * 160 cm. I am considering whether to use velux standard plus windows in polyurethane link removed) or dakea ultima energy in bedroom wood and plastic in the bathroom (link removed). I am especially interested in comparison of lifetime.

With the solar roof lights being only a little more than the electric Integra roof lights does anyone have any advice on: 1. which is more expensive to install (cost of builder fitting solar versus cost of electrician wiring the electric ones) 2. any problems long term with the solar ones if anyone has experienced issues with battery life or any other experience/advice which might sway my decision making. We'll have a mix of manual (for those easy to reach), solar (one large rooflight that doesn't come in electric so we have to go solar) and possibly the others integra. 3 of the roof lights will have the black solar reduction ornings fitted for hot summer days. Thank you

North facing, triple glazed velux roof window, 3.30 this afternoon ..... on the outside, partly melted ice re-freezing

Has anyone installed or used a Rooflite window? It looks like the holding company is the parent of Velux so I wouldn't be surprised if they were made in the same factory. Interested in any opinion as they are quite a lot cheaper than the equivalent Velux / Keylite.

Thinking of the current weather, can anyone recommend a secure way of holding a Velux Perhaps 50mm open when no one is home, or at night. Not a huge issue, but it is a little too close to next door’s carport roof for comfort. The window is a mid-pivot version.

I've been sealing and taping my triple glazed velux windows in our extension today and I can feel cold air at the bottom of the window where the rubber seals are in the actual opening part of the window frame. It's right in the corners. We have 2 velux, one seems fine, may be a very faint airleak but the other was much more obvious but not horrific. I assume I shouldn't be able to feel anything whatsoever? It's going to be a real pain now everything is in/on to get velux involved but what are my choices? Complain to supplier and velux. I'll raise it with my builder tomorrow anyway but thought I'd get an opinion from you guys Thanks James

I am at the stage where i need to start looking at ordering the rooflights, I need 6 in total and as 4 of them are in bedrooms i need at least 2 of them to be top hung, my question is does anyone actually use the top hung ability so you can stand in them, or could you have got away with center pivots which are cheaper? the top of my windows are about 1.8m so a top hung would mean i could stand in them quite happily but are they worth the extra cost? any opinions welcome TIA Ed